richevelle
Jun 28th, 02, 7:01 PM
im just about to cut my rear 1/4s and put on new ones. my friend that works in a auto body shop said i could mig weld them on or use a two part epoxy. the weld is every 3 to 4 inches the epoxy is the whole lenght of the panel and is strong as the weld it self.i just want to know if this is ture? thanks!
GVMLS6
Jun 28th, 02, 7:13 PM
While it is true that "bonding" is stronger and more corrosion resistant than welding, this is a process better applied to newer cars. On older cars such as we work on, welding or even a combination of the two methods is best because mateing surfaces are'nt as perfect and you may have to do some shifting and moving the panel to get fit.
Gordon VM
Restoration Motorsports
sevt_chevelle
Jun 28th, 02, 11:32 PM
Glueing is just as strong if not stronger then a weld. We've proved this by hooking up both a welded panel and a bonded panel to our frame machine and pulled the pieces apart. The welded panel broke lose long before the glued panel.
Any panel is not to be fully glued on, it needs to be welded somewhere. On quarters the glue manufactors say that the welded areas are the sail panel(where the quarter meets the roof) and the taillight area. All the other attaching spots can be bonded. The best spots are the wheel well and the trunk exts no more welding on your back and later down the having the possiblity of rust forming again from the welded joint. The glue seals up the metal and prevents rusting.
If you are replacing your quarter with a 80% quarter you will need to fully weld the seem shut, dont glue it or it will shift and you will later see a line where you glued. although the glue is strongher then a weld it likes to move around tus causing the line to form. But in areas of the wheel well and trunk exts the glue is not able to move and stays in place. Only areas are long flat with no bracing to help support the panel, shift.
Just like Gordon said the best method is a comb of the two. Glue the wheel well and trunk exts and door jam, weld the sail panel and taillight area. This is what I would do and have done...Eric
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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles
GVMLS6
Jun 29th, 02, 1:01 PM
Another note about "bonding". Make sure you grind off ALL the galvanizing in the contact areas. I have seen bonds fail because of a bad galvanizing application at the factory. The manufacturers (Fusor,Dura-Mix, etc.)all recomend this.
Gordon VM