Funny here is another valve adjustment question. I have a 1970 396(402) I'm putting together. It will not be run until next summer at the earliest. I have an old Chiltons book I'm following. It says to adjust various intake and exhaust valves until the push rod side clearance is gone then 1 full turn after that. These adjustments are made when the #1 piston and # 6 cylinder is in their firing position.

Is this still pretty accurate? Just don't want any problems when I do finally start the engine. Thanks in advance.

The Chilton's method works fine. You set the crank at #1 firing position and adjust 8 varous valves. Then turn the crank 360 degrees to #6 fire and do the other 8. It works fine unless you have a huge cam.

I personally have a hard time finding zero lash by wiggling push rods. So, I use my thinnest feeler gauge (.0015") and use that as zero. Then I turn 1/4 turn more. Some people go 1/2 turn more. I would not go 1 full turn.

On the other hand, if it ain't gonna fire up for a year, bag it up with the intake off and do all this when you're more ready. You can smother the cam and lifters in fresh moly then.

Ken

Sounds good. I felt the book was fairly accurate but just wanted to be sure. There seems to be so many new methods out there you can't be sure anymore.

I like to tighten the push rods until I can't turn them anymore. This also seems to be at the same point when the side play is completely removed as well.

I plan to turn the engine over and prime it pretty regularly until I'm ready to start it.

Thanks for the response!

I like to tighten the push rods until I can't turn them anymore.

That is a good way to overtighten them. Ask me how I know. Wiggle them up and down. It is too easy to end up with partially collapsed lifters using the spinning method.

That is a good way to overtighten them. Ask me how I know. Wiggle them up and down. It is too easy to end up with partially collapsed lifters using the spinning method.


This is an area where practice makes perfect. Adjust a few hundred valves and its no longer a challenge to get it right.

The method I like best is the "firing order" method.

Get the #1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke , adjust its valves. Rotate the engine clockwise 90* (as you face the engine) and adjust #8 valves. Rotate the engine another 90* clockwise ,adjust #4 valves and so on through the firing order:
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At TDC on each cylinder the overwhelmingly vast amount of cams will have each cylinders cam lobes in the correct position for adjustment.

This method is by far and away the easiest method for the beginner to grasp. Additionally it eliminates one of the most difficult pre fire areas of confusion on a new engine.


Obviously having the spark plugs out makes this method significantly easier :)