Does anyone adjust their valves like this anymore for a hydraulic cam on a fresh engine?
Using a degree wheel, starting with the #1 cylinder adjust each pair of rocker arms intake and exhaust at TDC for each cylinder, adjust to zero lash then a 1/2 to 3/4 turn more, then adjust the rest following the firing order.

Yes, I do. Works perfectly , especially if the engine is sittig on an engine stand. The only difference is I don't use the degree wheel. I just start with #1 and then turn the engine 90* at a time thru the firing order.

charbilly2001, I agree, but you just don't hear of many people doing it this way. I think this method could cut down on a lot of the cam problems on break in, because you don't have to rotate the cam as much thus you don't wipe off as much cam lube in the process. I have never had a cam go flat using this method in over the 300 plus cams I have put in.

charbilly2001, I agree, but you just don't hear of many people doing it this way. I think this method could cut down on a lot of the cam problems on break in, because you don't have to rotate the cam as much thus you don't wipe off as much cam lube in the process. I have never had a cam go flat using this method in over the 300 plus cams I have put in.


I will have to remember this sequence. I just broke in a new cam and I was very worried that I would have trouble due to doing it "the per cylinder" method, which wiped off all lube from the cam. I ended up being 1.5 quarts of oil over to compensate with extra splash from the crank, and had EDM Hole lifters (mechanical flat tappet).

However, I have a 496 build lurking around the corner, but I have an oil pan with built in scraper and windage tray, and I am concerned about breaking in the cam. I have the EDM lifters for it as well, but I think that I will do this method this time to aid in the break in process.

You can use this method on a mechanical cam to set zero lash, all slop removed, start engine and bring RPM up to 2500 - 2800, then start checking the lash and adjusting as needed. After the 30 minute break in bring the engine down to idle and set hot lash.
One other thing I like to do, and this works for hydraulic and mechanical cams, after the valves are adjusted, before you put the intake manifold on, take a small artist paintbrush and recoat the cam lobes with cam lube through the oil drain back slots above the cam without rotating the cam. If you have the screen kit over these slots, pour a can of GM E.O.S. over the cam and lifters, you can also overfill the oil pan with 1 1/2- 2 qts of oil as Wildman926 stated.