HEllo,
I managed to come across a ZL-1 block (iron nickel type) just wondering what there worth? it doesnt need megnafluxed, and no boring. its been well stored. I'm interested in rebuilding it. r the parts more expensive for an engine of this magnatude?

Thanks in advance

a ZL-1 block is aluminum, not iron. that's probably just a regular big block. post the cast in and stamped numbers on it and the guys will identify it. Pics help too. Does it have four bolts holding each main cap on?

Did somebody tell you it was a ZL-1 block as part of a sales pitch?

Tom's correct, "REAL" ZL-1 (427) blocks were alum with iron sleeves (originals were 69). Chevy re-introduced an upgraded, reinforced and improved version a few years ago, but it was still alum.

By the way, a few years ago at Chevellabration (sorry, after attending 7 they have kinda run together), someone had a 70-72 with an all alum 454 in an otherwise stock appearing car (almost seems as if it also had fact air).

The original ZL-1 block weighed like 98 pounds and the newer one like 110 pounds due to more modern reinforcing to help it hold together better.

pdq67

oh sorry about that. yeah it is aluminum with iron sleeves all screwed up there lol . i dont no big block vary well. the block isnt cheap, but thought would it be worth rebuilding? is there parts for it? my brother in law used to race and his friend had a ZL-1 with well over 600 hp. crazy engine! :)

If it IS a true ZL-1 of old......you'd be better off building it back to factory specs & selling it. You could probably build 2 or 3 engines with the money.

yeah i saw on ebay they sold a ZL-1 engine (don yenkos engine) for over 50,000 i think. crazy....

it's extremely unlikely to just run across a ZL-1 block. Why don't you post pics of the numbers on the block, get real verification that way. There's plenty of guys on here who know that stuff cold.

And then there's the issues around "why was it pulled from the last car it was in?" If they want big bucks for it it needs to inspected, aluminum can't be magnafluxed for cracks but there's several dye penetrant procedures out there that work great. Used on aircraft engines and other aluminum stuff. Every bolt hole needs to be looked at since they were bad about pulling threads.

If they want real money for the thing you need to do the homework on it before forking over the old wallet.

Chevrolet also sold aluminum sleeves and tin coated pistons for both the 4.25" and 4.44" bore aluminum blocks which reportedly made more HP!