Had some questions about 0-60 foot and et.
I made 4 passes on Friday night.
1st pass at 3000 rpm 2 step and trans brake. 1.628 0-60 foot.4.614 at 330,7.088 at 1/8th at 99.65 mph and 11.056 at 124.42 in the quarter.
2nd pass at 3300 rpm on step and trans brake. 1.596 0-60 foot.4.595 at 330,7.094 at 1/8th at 97.65 mph and 11.096 at 123.45 mph in the quarter.
3rd pass at 3600 rpm on 2 step and trans brake.1.551 0-60 foot. 4.553 at 7.007 in the 1/8th and 10.983 at 124.12 in the quarter.(Best pass to date in car with no nitrous.
4th pass at 3900 rpm on 2 step and trans brake. 1.564 0-60 foot(rolled out of it and back in as I went to the right due to car not straight at launch).4.554 at 330 foot,7.091 at 96.59 at the 1/8th and 11.121 at 122.90 in the quarter.


Seems like as my 0-60 went down my 1/8 mile mph went down.My combo is a 66 el camino with cage and a 295 mt drag radial.4.30 gear with powerglide and a continental 10" nitrous converter.Very tight.I have just installed all new suspension.This car would never leave on trans brake before.Best 0-60 before was 1.71 on the foot brake.Car has a 434 sbc chevy with 15:1 comp and solid roller cam.23 degree brodix heads.Up front I have trz arms with moroso drag springs and qa1 single adjustable shocks.Out back has upper to lower bars to tie in the uppers to lowers.Heimed double adjustable uppers with spherical heimed and delron bushed round tube lowers.Dick miller anti roll bar and rear springs.Bmr lower control arm brackets and double adjustable qa1 shocks.I want to get the car to run low 10's need help.Any suggestions.The car pulls both tires 10-12 " off the ground when I leave and leaves level.Does not twist.Thanks

You're gettin there quicker, not as much time to build mph, on the last pass you rolled out and back in thus the mph loss. Have you tried stiffening the shocks on compression in the back. I've even heard of guys filling the tailgate with concrete for added ballast.

Man, leaving off a t-brake with drag radials... :thumbsup:
I only wish...

I bet he'd trade that 1.40 of yours footbrakin for his 1.55 on the transbrake :D

You're gettin there quicker, not as much time to build mph, on the last pass you rolled out and back in thus the mph loss. Have you tried stiffening the shocks on compression in the back. I've even heard of guys filling the tailgate with concrete for added ballast.
On the rear I have it set a 1 turn up from full soft on extension and at set at 10 turns(click) on compresion.Soft extension hard compression.On the front they are set at 1 click from softest.Thanks for the help.

On the rear I have it set a 1 turn up from full soft on extension and at set at 10 turns(click) on compresion.Soft extension hard compression.On the front they are set at 1 click from softest.Thanks for the help.
Almost the exact settings I use. :thumbsup:

Looks as im going back to the track friday night and saturday at Famoso in Bakersfield Ca.What adjustments do you think I should make to the suspension for nitrous.We flowed my plate and it is set up for a 175 hp hit.I run a product engineering pump with 2 regulators.One for the carb and one for the nitrous.Going off my current set up how much nitrous do you think it will take to get into the high 9.9999's.I have some old buddies coming up that dont think a drag radial will hook.They wanted me to cut my car up and tub it.I said no way.What do you think?My cam is ground for nitrous and my converter was built for nitrous.Car is a little slugish without the nitrous with this converter.

Are you way down on power??? You quarter MPH is very low???

Got pretty much the same motor and assuming your in the 3500-3700# range, would say your WAY down on power somewhere.

Also assuming that you do not have excessive spin I would say that your trans combo (assuming weight is in range above) along with converter is KILLING your times throughout the entire run, especially in the 60' area.

Your setup should be running EASY low 1.5 60' times with the right trans and converter, and be running about 10.4-.5s all day long.

You have much more compression than me at 11:1.

Fill in some of the blanks above like weight and other items.

One last observation is the car seems to be running pretty decent the first 1/2 of the track(less the 60' times) and falling on its face the second 1/2 - what sorta rpms are you crossing the line at? Mine crosses at about 6400 with a 28" tire, and 3.73gears, but in the 130MPH range. Should really be going across at ~6700 where I shift at - but can't put more gear to it without destroying more rear IRS parts.

The car wieghs around 3100 lbs with out me in it.Im 365 pounds.I have not had the motor apart.I think the cam is way advanced and its ground on a 114 ls.The gear is 4.30 with a glide.The converter kills the power.I need the same converter but in a 8" or 9 instead of the 10." as to mikes tranmissions.I dont have the cam specs here with me.Ill post later.I could not get this car to hook last year with my 9" converter.It was to loose and hit the tires extremly hard.It might work now with the suspension changes though.The current converter will not flash over 2,000 rpm.It will trans brake to 4500 rpm though.I run the brodix track 1 head that has been ported.My car would work alot better with a 4.56 gear and a 3 speed.It has been set up to run nitrous to it and I think it hurts the car without it.I apprecciate all the help I can get.Please keep this thread going as I am open to suggestions.The car goes through the traps at around 6500 rpm.You can hear the car on video change tone in the upper rpm range.It makes power way up top.I have not dyno'ed the motor but you can fell it in the upper rpm range 5,000 and up start pulling.With a 4.56 gear it would run out of gear with nitrous.Thank you

Just got home.Here is a little more info.Heads are track 1 brodix ported by nickens bros.They flow 268.2 at .500 lift,283.1 at .600 lift and 292 at .700 lift on intake and 207.5 at .500 lift,213.7 at .600 lift and 218.4 at .700 lift on exhaust.My current cam is a comp cam solid roller. 112 lobe seperation(thought it was 114),small base circle,4/7 swap.Intake .705 lift and 273 at .050. Exhaust is .659 lift and 282 at .050.They had this cam ground for nos.The other cam that was in this motor was.705 lift and 281 at .050 on intake and .648 lift and 291 at .050 on exhaust.Ground on a 108.What cam would work best?Thanks guys...

Put a 5000 stall TCI 8" converter in it and let it eat. If the suspension doesn't work you have to FIX that. Can't bandaid the suspension problem and kill the motor with the trans. Also if your true stall is 2k, and you have pushed it to 4+K on the brake, you may have laid the fins over on the converter - which will result in no torque multiplication and crappy topend MPH (which would explain the low MPH).

Its all there for the taken - get a good converter like I have mentioned above and you will see min of .5 sec gain for sure. That is if you fix the suspension to work with what you have. MIght even see more, since your weight is down more than mine.

Mine runs 10.2-10.3s in the heat of the summer.

Boy... right now your car is only making about 575 +/- hp, should make far more then that.

What carb??

Barry grant 1000 cfm race demon DR 4150.Thanks for the input.Im finishing up some nitrous stuff right now and im going to squeeze it tommorw night.Then I will install the 9" continental converter that I had munsinger tighten up.That converter may work.If not im selling both these converters and will have one made for my combo.The 9" came with my car and I bought the 10" converter used.Both are nice converters.$750 and up each.Contenintal does alot with the PSCA guys.This motor may not be what the guy said either???.

Just got home.Here is a little more info.Heads are track 1 brodix ported by nickens bros.They flow 268.2 at .500 lift,283.1 at .600 lift and 292 at .700 lift on intake and 207.5 at .500 lift,213.7 at .600 lift and 218.4 at .700 lift on exhaust.My current cam is a comp cam solid roller. 112 lobe seperation(thought it was 114),small base circle,4/7 swap.Intake .705 lift and 273 at .050. Exhaust is .659 lift and 282 at .050.They had this cam ground for nos.The other cam that was in this motor was.705 lift and 281 at .050 on intake and .648 lift and 291 at .050 on exhaust.Ground on a 108.What cam would work best?Thanks guys... These are only medium performance heads and there are way better or should i say faster heads on the market now. That cam is probably big enough but the heads are the main hold back to going real fast. It might respond to a little more gear if you don't mind it screaming downtrack. A local here has a Nova of nearly the same weight and it ran 10.50 @ 126.44 on drag radials with a medium performance 434 SB. Ski_dwn_it's Vette is going to be several MPH faster because those cars are very aerodynamic and just don't take as much H.P. to go through the air as a Chevelle. Your car is only going to run real high tens with the parts you have in it now. Another unknown are the weather conditions where you are racing and that has a huge effect on the times. A guy came from Iowa came to our track here at Tulsa one year and ran 13.20. He was very dejected because he said it had run high 11's at home but he didn't take into account the 100 degree summer temperature or 50% humidity of Tulsa. I saw a National record holding Buick in 1971 do the same thing at Amarillo which is 3700 ft. before the summer air.

Harrold,

I agree with you to a certain extent with the aero of my car, but do not forget my power is running through an independant rear with is IMPOSSIBLE to keep the power distributed without introducing an angle to the rear 1/2 shafts. Put a swivel on your ratch setup next time your turning wrenches in your garage, tighten the bolt as tight as you can with the handle at about a 20* angle off 90* (perfect). Then straighten it up to 0* or 90 off the bolt and try again. Bet you can get it to move a bunch more. ;)

ANother example would be to hook up your handy power drill with the same swivel setup and run it on an angle - the swivel will start to glow red hot! Hence the reason I go through 1350 series u-joints like a kid in a candy store. lol. The rear of my car is a GOOD solid .3sec ET loss.

You ask how do I know: Same car, 420CI motor brodix heads, tuned by me, installed solid rear 9" , the result: http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/7/20120122695.jpg&s=f10

60' times went from low 1.4s to 1.26! ETs from 10.teens to 9.7-8s at less MPH than I am running :) guy has been trying to convince me to let him use my motor - was going to do the solid rear conversion myself, up until the wife told me we have twins on the way. lol. Little change of plans.

So in summary I agree the car is more aerodynamic, but other factors nigate that advantage.

Elco - I am not one to stress people out and tell them off the bat something is wrong with their setup - but you have a BUNCH more ET left in it. The converter is NO DOUBT a bunch of it - my guess its toast hence the poor mph at the traps and ok MPH at the 1/8; either that or your trans is slipping or something. Probably with the glide only shifting into high gear around the 1/8 mile mark - trans slipping in high gear?

Calculate your trap RPM for your setup, tires, gearing and compare it to what your actually crossing the line at in RPMs. Try to be as accurate as possible. MY bet if your at about 12-15% higher actual than you should be - meaning your throwing that much power out the window somewhere. Two things effect that: converter or trans slipping.

Keep pluggin away at the easy stuff before diggin into the motor - you'll find it.

Harrold,

I agree with you to a certain extent with the aero of my car, but do not forget my power is running through an independant rear with is IMPOSSIBLE to keep the power distributed without introducing an angle to the rear 1/2 shafts. Put a swivel on your ratch setup next time your turning wrenches in your garage, tighten the bolt as tight as you can with the handle at about a 20* angle off 90* (perfect). Then straighten it up to 0* or 90 off the bolt and try again. Bet you can get it to move a bunch more. ;)

ANother example would be to hook up your handy power drill with the same swivel setup and run it on an angle - the swivel will start to glow red hot! Hence the reason I go through 1350 series u-joints like a kid in a candy store. lol. The rear of my car is a GOOD solid .3sec ET loss.

You ask how do I know: Same car, 420CI motor brodix heads, tuned by me, installed solid rear 9" , the result: http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/7/20120122695.jpg&s=f10

60' times went from low 1.4s to 1.26! ETs from 10.teens to 9.7-8s at less MPH than I am running :) guy has been trying to convince me to let him use my motor - was going to do the solid rear conversion myself, up until the wife told me we have twins on the way. lol. Little change of plans.

So in summary I agree the car is more aerodynamic, but other factors nigate that advantage.



One thing I've learned over the years, don't expect someone else's results to mirror your own unless you run the exact same combo in the same air conditions. By your post, I deduce that you think your combo will run 9.7's if you switch to a solid axle. Do you really believe that? If so, what will th mph be at that et???

Well I can tell you this, I can alter my MPH by 2-3 just by the way I set my rear 1/2 shafts up at rest ;)

I typically set them so that its a compromise between extreme position on the launch and where it settles out on the topend under full load. My car going to the line looks like its only riding on the outside 1/2 of the tires from behind, but on the launch and under full power, the tires are completely flat to slightly lifting the outside of the tires.

Trust me, been doing this for a while with these cars - not just pulling the stuff out of my azz. Watch the video of the car on its launch and how much the rear squates down, then imagine how much those 1/2 shafts are moving under there. 2 u-joints on each shaft, plus the driveshafts 2 = 6 total. Ever hear of guys making gains with pinion angle optimization? Now multiply that movement by about 4 fold and that is what you get on the 1/2 shafts.

I can assure you that my car will run better than 9.8s with a solid rear conversion. Do the math 10.1 is not that great of an ET for 135MPH- the reason for that is my 60' times are not that great for a 135MPH car at my 3400# weight. Like I said, we went from low1.4s to 1.28s with the solid rear change - which is more typical of the MPHs he was running with the IRS.

This is less about my car than Elcos. Just was trying to mention to Harold he was correct but not entirely correct in his comparison. I think we can all agree that Elco's MPH is terribly low for that size motor and his race weight, and comparing them to his 1/8 mile MPHs which are somewhat in line with what one would expect - points to the problem being on the topend of the track; less the 60' times (which again could be related to the converter laying over on the topend).

So unless he comes back and says hes racing in Denver in 5000+ DA weather - his car has more to be had out of it. If nothing else, the 60' times hold a good .15sec end ET gain. Get the topend pulling a solid 27-28mph he will be in the 127-129mph range. Which will be pretty optimized for his setup he describes.

Good discussion none the less. If I were Elco, I would be pleased to know there is more to be had out of the setup - that is the outlook at least I would approach the car with. For that matter I know there is more even in my setup. Just last year took the 60' times from 1.43s to 1.37s just fine tuning. Theres always more there, just boils down to how much you wanna look;) I would look at his setup as LOTS of "low hanging fruit" there for the takin.

PS: Like your car - looks good.

Well, knowing your motor combo from previous internet posts, I can see your combo making about 650hp which would put you around 9.9x@135 taking into consideration your aerodynamics and utilizing a solid axle. My own 422 makes no more than 650 with heads that flow slightly less and about .8pts more compression. In absolutely KILLER air it will run 10.0's@131+.

Also, I would not expect Elco's car to pick up 28mph on the back half. If he does, then more than likely he's left et/mph on the table for the first half. Of course, with this being a "nitrous combo" as opposed to a "n/a combo" he may indeed see such a gain.

Also, Congrats on the twins!!! If these are your first, get ready for a big change. "Big change" of course referring to the amount of diapers you'll soon be going thru. :D

Well its 8:13 here and im still not at the track.Got my nitrous sorted out and started changing plugs to colder plug.On the last plug #6 I crossed threaded the Fx8,ing thing.I stopped as soon as I realized it.Lemon headers make it a bitch to change plugs.I have more room now with the new arms though.Im not giving up and will be at the track in the morning.Just to keep this going here are 4 slips from last year.Before suspension changes and it had a 9" converter.
1---0-60 foot 1.743,330 foot 4.688,1/8th 7.156 at 99.19 and the quarter at 11.116 at 123.67.
2--- 0-60 foot 2.153,330 foot 5.321,1/8th 7.803 at 99.28 and the quarter at 11.736 at 124.84.
3--- o-60 foot 1.956,330 foot 5.094,1/8th at 7.616 at 98.16 and the quarter at 11.594 at 118.15
4--- 0-60 1.81,330 4.787,1/8th at 7.273 at 98.69 and the quarter at 11.244 at 123.45.
I did squezze this car once last year and it went 2.1xx in the 0-60 and the 330 and 1/8th were slower than all these passes and the car hooked up after half track and went out the back door at 134 and a 10.98.
If I can leave on the trans brake tommorow and grab the unit and it sticks I think the car should run half way decent.We will see tommorow.Im just happy I got the traction issues worked out from last year.1 thing at a time.Every one of those four passes it was spinning the tire.

Harrold,

I agree with you to a certain extent with the aero of my car, but do not forget my power is running through an independant rear with is IMPOSSIBLE to keep the power distributed without introducing an angle to the rear 1/2 shafts. Put a swivel on your ratch setup next time your turning wrenches in your garage, tighten the bolt as tight as you can with the handle at about a 20* angle off 90* (perfect). Then straighten it up to 0* or 90 off the bolt and try again. Bet you can get it to move a bunch more. ;)

ANother example would be to hook up your handy power drill with the same swivel setup and run it on an angle - the swivel will start to glow red hot! Hence the reason I go through 1350 series u-joints like a kid in a candy store. lol. The rear of my car is a GOOD solid .3sec ET loss.

You ask how do I know: Same car, 420CI motor brodix heads, tuned by me, installed solid rear 9" , the result: http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/7/20120122695.jpg&s=f10

60' times went from low 1.4s to 1.26! ETs from 10.teens to 9.7-8s at less MPH than I am running :) guy has been trying to convince me to let him use my motor - was going to do the solid rear conversion myself, up until the wife told me we have twins on the way. lol. Little change of plans.

So in summary I agree the car is more aerodynamic, but other factors nigate that advantage.

Elco - I am not one to stress people out and tell them off the bat something is wrong with their setup - but you have a BUNCH more ET left in it. The converter is NO DOUBT a bunch of it - my guess its toast hence the poor mph at the traps and ok MPH at the 1/8; either that or your trans is slipping or something. Probably with the glide only shifting into high gear around the 1/8 mile mark - trans slipping in high gear?

Calculate your trap RPM for your setup, tires, gearing and compare it to what your actually crossing the line at in RPMs. Try to be as accurate as possible. MY bet if your at about 12-15% higher actual than you should be - meaning your throwing that much power out the window somewhere. Two things effect that: converter or trans slipping.

Keep pluggin away at the easy stuff before diggin into the motor - you'll find it. His E.T. and MPH line up with the fact that he only has about 500-525 H.P. as is seen in his times. Our local guy with the 434" Nova runs 10.50 @ 126.44. I think this guy's problems aren't in his setup, he just isn't making any real power. There are things he can change to improve his power and a converter change will definately help him more than anything he can do. He has a nitrous cam and too little gear. The heads are only flowing about 290 CFM at their peak, are a ten year old design and were a mediocre head when first produced, they just aren't going to make over 600 H.P. I frankly see a medium performance engine that is running just what it should. He also said that he had a converter that was way too tight and i know from personal experience that this will hurt times about as bad as anything you can do from watching the local nitrous boys change converters to bring the RPM down on their nitrous runs. One really fast Camaro went from a nitrous 9" Niel Chance converter to a tight 10" one. On the motor the car went from running 9.70s to 10.30s and the MPH dropped from 140-142 to 136. But when he turned the juice on it dropped from running 82-8300 RPM to running 7500 RPM so it accomplished what he wanted. It also picked up a tenth with the juice on and gained two MPH.

I agree that his converter is hurting him and he will need also need to decide to run the setup as a nitrous motor or n/a motor.

The heads he has are not that bad if they flow what he is saying. No they are not top of the line heads, but my M2 race system heads only flowed 307CFM - which are about as good as they get for 23* stuff less the extravagent headers and other needed stuff to make raised port stuff work.

Also our 406s that had out of the box AFR heads flowing in the 260CFM range, ran exactly the MPH and ETs he is getting now, actually went 10.9s to be exact. So he has another 30CFM to play with we did not. We were running 3.07 rear gears too, through full exhausts, 700r4 trans, 9" converter and pulling low 1.5-high1.4 60' times.

I think we both can agree his setup is not optimized and if he wants to chase after these items we mention - there is more ET left there for him. Then again if he is just interested in bracket racing and the car is planting the tires ever run now - messing with it might be the worst thing to do.

Thanks for help guys.I just got back from the track and made 2 passes.Both on the bottle.The weather here is the worst I have ever seen it.110 degrees and the humidity is umbarible.I trying to find out what corrected altitude is.I heard its above 5000 feet.
1 st pass with a 175 shot and 30 degrees of timing.. 0-60 foot 1.527,330 foot 4.172,1/8 mile went 6.399 at 109.89,1000 ft went 8.332 and the quarter was 9.974 at 137.11 mph.I left on the trans brake set at 3700 on the 2 step.Car hooked and pulled both tire about 12-14" off ground then I grabbed the nitrous about where the tree is(Dont know how far out).It spun a little bit.I let off the button and grabed it again and the car was hooked.This was a conservative tune up and is still rich.
The second pass I screwed up and then it was to hot and humid to do anything.I packed it up and came home.I am very pleased though to go into the 9's.Barely..I think with good air and a tune up it should do well.Car went through the traps around 7000 rpm.I have never seen the air as crappy as it was today.

Thanks for help guys.I just got back from the track and made 2 passes.Both on the bottle.The weather here is the worst I have ever seen it.110 degrees and the humidity is umbarible.I trying to find out what corrected altitude is.I heard its above 5000 feet.
1 st pass with a 175 shot and 30 degrees of timing.. 0-60 foot 1.527,330 foot 4.172,1/8 mile went 6.399 at 109.89,1000 ft went 8.332 and the quarter was 9.974 at 137.11 mph.I left on the trans brake set at 3700 on the 2 step.Car hooked and pulled both tire about 12-14" off ground then I grabbed the nitrous about where the tree is(Dont know how far out).It spun a little bit.I let off the button and grabed it again and the car was hooked.This was a conservative tune up and is still rich.
The second pass I screwed up and then it was to hot and humid to do anything.I packed it up and came home.I am very pleased though to go into the 9's.Barely..I think with good air and a tune up it should do well.Car went through the traps around 7000 rpm.I have never seen the air as crappy as it was today. That is a huge MPH gain from a 175 H.P. setting, showing that the motor was optimized for nitrous in the first place. A 175 shot usually gets about 12-13 MPH and 8 tenths. The difference is the nitrous converter and cam which slows down the motor without the juice. Nice gain for a safe hit. That same hit on my son's '71 truck added ten MPH and dropped three quarters of a second. I just finished looking at the weather and it must have been extremely hot at you strip when you ran. It's 1 o'clock in the morning and it's still 93 Degrees out there according to their website so it must have been 104-106 during the daytime. D.A. of 5000+ ft. is very likely, no wonder your car was running somewhat slower than expected.

That is a huge MPH gain from a 175 H.P. setting, showing that the motor was optimized for nitrous in the first place. A 175 shot usually gets about 12-13 MPH and 8 tenths. The difference is the nitrous converter and cam which slows down the motor without the juice. Nice gain for a safe hit. That same hit on my son's '71 truck added ten MPH and dropped three quarters of a second. I just finished looking at the weather and it must have been extremely hot at you strip when you ran. It's 1 o'clock in the morning and it's still 93 Degrees out there according to their website so it must have been 104-106 during the daytime. D.A. of 5000+ ft. is very likely, no wonder your car was running somewhat slower than expected.
Harold,It was miserable out their.I had something to prove to myself and I did it on the first pass out that day.Thay said it was 50% humidity that day.The car stumbles off the transbrake and I couldnt beleive it went into the 9's.Those stumbles take away some time.I talked to pro systems and will be ordering a carb within the next week.He thought the carb was going lean off the brake and couldnt flow enough fuel that fast off the brake.Im shooting for a 9.50 pass next time out.Not sure how much nitrous I can throw at this thing being a short deck motor with a 4" stroke.Im not going to go over 250.

Harold,It was miserable out their.I had something to prove to myself and I did it on the first pass out that day.Thay said it was 50% humidity that day.The car stumbles off the transbrake and I couldnt beleive it went into the 9's.Those stumbles take away some time.I talked to pro systems and will be ordering a carb within the next week.He thought the carb was going lean off the brake and couldnt flow enough fuel that fast off the brake.Im shooting for a 9.50 pass next time out.Not sure how much nitrous I can throw at this thing being a short deck motor with a 4" stroke.Im not going to go over 250.

Allen, that's a pretty stout pick-up on gas. I don't recall what length rod you're running, but if it's a 6"er, staying below a 250 shot would be wise.

Harold,It was miserable out their.I had something to prove to myself and I did it on the first pass out that day.Thay said it was 50% humidity that day.The car stumbles off the transbrake and I couldnt beleive it went into the 9's.Those stumbles take away some time.I talked to pro systems and will be ordering a carb within the next week.He thought the carb was going lean off the brake and couldnt flow enough fuel that fast off the brake.Im shooting for a 9.50 pass next time out.Not sure how much nitrous I can throw at this thing being a short deck motor with a 4" stroke.Im not going to go over 250. Actually the 175 hit is the last safe place for a small fuel system, i'd leave the hit alone and tune the carb and suspension. My son got greedy on a 427 in his old truck and burned up a piston going from 175 to a 250 shot once.

Actually the 175 hit is the last safe place for a small fuel system, i'd leave the hit alone and tune the carb and suspension. My son got greedy on a 427 in his old truck and burned up a piston going from 175 to a 250 shot once.
I have the fuel system to 2 or 3 stage the car.I run the big product engineering fuel pump fed from a fuel cell with -12 line then from the pump forward -10.That goes to a fuel log with two magnaflow 4 port regulators.1 reg for the carb and 1 for the nitrous.Ive seen some big notrous combos work pretty well with this combo.-08 return line.Im just worried because of the 4" stroke 6" rod cobo in a short block like John Wilson Pointed out.Just imagine how John Wilson's car would be on the bottle.I am very impressed with that car.

Thought I would bring up a old thread..Well its winter time and I have torn into my motor..Its been on my mind my motor isnt making power like it should after some comments and pm's I have recieved from this site.I did notice I had a Intake valve that was closing the lash up on valve adjustment.It would close the lash and hold the valve open.So I knew I had a problem.WHat I saw next when I pulled it apart blew me away..I have a bowtie block and it has raised lifter bosses.They ran a normal hieght lifter and the horizontal bar is resting on my block.The roller on the lifter does not come in contact with the cam when valve is closed.When one side opens the bar moves up and pulls the other lifter and valve open then slams it shut..Does this make since?I need .300 taller lifters or have the block machined.This explains why I killed a set of valve springs last year and have started to sink a valve seat in my head.Also explains why thier is so much reversion going on in my motor..My intake is black,inside of carb is black..Car is hard to start and always had a rough time trying to idle..This will be my winter project and cant wait to see the difference.

Well after a long winter and some thrashing the last 2 weeks I got my motor back together. THier is a new racing series here in California called west coast hot rod. Similar to PSCA. Its new and this was thier second event. I ran a class called modified production.Its a heads up class.275 drag radial calss and factory suspension. Car must wiegh in at 8 pounds per cubic inch.Only got 2 qualifiying runs on saturday.Track got shut down because of rain. I made my best to date motor only passes.This is with the same motor as stated above. We freshened with new rings,got the right lifters and I got the heads fixed.Same cam,same compression. My 9" converter (6500 rpm on t-brake). Car went 10.45 at 128 and some change. I had to run a 275 radial instead of the 295 and I installed 4.56 gears in the rear. The converter is killing me and its going 7600rpm out the back door.Im very happy. I will get the slips tommorow and post the rest..This class is going to be fun.

Well after a long winter and some thrashing the last 2 weeks I got my motor back together. THier is a new racing series here in California called west coast hot rod. Similar to PSCA. Its new and this was thier second event. I ran a class called modified production.Its a heads up class.275 drag radial calss and factory suspension. Car must wiegh in at 8 pounds per cubic inch.Only got 2 qualifiying runs on saturday.Track got shut down because of rain. I made my best to date motor only passes.This is with the same motor as stated above. We freshened with new rings,got the right lifters and I got the heads fixed.Same cam,same compression. My 9" converter (6500 rpm on t-brake). Car went 10.45 at 128 and some change. I had to run a 275 radial instead of the 295 and I installed 4.56 gears in the rear. The converter is killing me and its going 7600rpm out the back door.Im very happy. I will get the slips tommorow and post the rest..This class is going to be fun. Quite an improvement, glad you found your problems. Sounds like you definately got way more power than you had. Congratulations and i think you are on your way now. You'll probably have to take some gear out if you want to hit it with a 250 shot but it should go mid nines easily with your power gains on the engine only runs.

Nice numbers.

Allen, congrats! Gotta feel good to be getting it lined out. :thumbsup:

Here is my time slip...This is on a 275 drag radial...
1.546 0-60 foot
4.307 at 330 foot
6.646 at 1/8th
104.95 at 1/8th
8.684 at 1000 foot
10.43 in the 1/4
128.36 mph.

I ordered a new Contenintal 8" converter today.Custom built to my car. Hopefully it will bring the rpms down...That was on the trans brake on a two step limiter at 4500rpm.It stuck the tire! Just way to much converter for this.John, what was peak power on your old motor?Car wieghed in at 3550 with me in it.

Here is my time slip...This is on a 275 drag radial...
1.546 0-60 foot
4.307 at 330 foot
6.646 at 1/8th
104.95 at 1/8th
8.684 at 1000 foot
10.43 in the 1/4
128.36 mph.

I ordered a new Contenintal 8" converter today.Custom built to my car. Hopefully it will bring the rpms down...That was on the trans brake on a two step limiter at 4500rpm.It stuck the tire! Just way to much converter for this.John, what was peak power on your old motor?Car wieghed in at 3550 with me in it.


Allen, I don't know. I never engine dyno'd that motor in it's final configuration. Going by the formula's I typically use, I'd say around 630ish. Your's appears to be in the 600 range without factoring in weather. Do you know the DA from that pass?

They said around a 1000 foot. I think im spinning the motor way past peak power.

I'd say that corrects to about 615ish. But the converter may be eating some power too. I'd shoot for a 7000-7200 finish rpm.

That is about where I hope the new converter gets me down to.You have Pm.

.You have Pm.

Don't see it.

Hi Elco, What day and time did you run these times and were they run at Famoso Drag strip? The strip information say that particular Strip is 635' in actual altitude before factoring in the rest of the conditions. It should be easy enough to find out the weather information from the national weather service. Sounds like your motor is running pretty good now. It's been raining out most of our local TNT days here lately. Good luck with your upcoming nitrous runs. Getting the exact right converter is all important when the juice is turned on. You almost can't get them too tight.

It was at Famoso. Run was made around 3:30 pm on sat. I took off the nitrous and going to try and compete in this series. www.westcoasthotrod.com Im running the mod production class.No nitrous.Check out the rules.Its going to be a fun heads up class.

Allen in my final session the Density Altitude was 1422. Temp was 67.5 and humitity was 30%. We also had a 5-10 mph cross tail wind. I think we were only a few minutes apart on our runs. That thing is running great and with the right converter and gear I think there is a 9 all motor pass in your future.

By the way, I can't believe I missed the wet tshirt contest. Thats what I get for hanging out in the RV.

The wet T-shirt contest was fun. I havent had a good time like that in a long time. I ordered my new converter on monday.Hopefully next weekend I will be out testing. Ordered it through Mike's Transmissions.Its a 8" continental 5200-5500 stall.Hopefully it will help gt my 60 foot time down. Hey Malibu, James and I are thinking of going to Arizona for the next race.You in?

Yeah I'm in. Dang it, I said I wasn't going to get serious about racing this time around, but oh well. The West Coast Hot Rod group is pretty cool, so I think I will run all the races. For now I will stick with C-Gas, but I would like to do a heads up class one of these days. Oh I need to get James his valve spring tester back to him. yell if you guys need it, if not I guess we will be in AZ together.