I recently bought a '67 with a 396 in it. The thing was pouring oil out of the valve covers.

I was recommened these Moroso Perm-Aligh Valve Cover gaskets (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=15619&searchItemId=25019) from JEGs. Set me back $47 plus shipping.

I installed them and snugged the valve covers down pretty well, but tried not to "over-tighten" them. Although the oil leak has significantly reduced, I can still see oil leaking and collecting on the head bolts, etc. After spending all this money, I'm thinking "wth"?

Is it possible I have warped valve covers? They are chrome with no name on them. They look quite old too. Or, is it possible I overtightened these gaskets and screwed them up?

Lastly, I see Summit Racing has their own version of these (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG2311&N=%2D77951+115&autoview=sku) fancy valve cover gaskets for only $13.95. What do you think of them over the Morosos?

Any tips on stopping valve cover leaks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback.

I know what you mean i have a 70 402 its driveing me nuts!!!!!!!!! Its not to bad now i put plain cork...and a little sealer im not sure if it stoped yet???

Check for warping and are you using load disributing thingies under the hold downs?

Check for warping and are you using load disributing thingies under the hold downs?

Just some short ones that were on the car when I bought it, like two inches in length. Should I be considering the longer ones I've seen...the ones that are like 4 inches?

That or new valve covers with thicker rails.

That or new valve covers with thicker rails.

Yeah, gonna go with some new covers just to make sure, too. Thanks for the feedback.

Now what ones to choose. Time to sit on the throne and take the wish book.

Now what ones to choose. Time to sit on the throne and take the wish book.

Already picked them out:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D141%2D115&FROM=MG

"These stamped steel valve covers are made of heavy-gauge steel that is 20 percent thicker than typical aftermarket valve covers."

If you use tall covers they will touch power brake booster if you have one. I guess you don`t have to worry about the ring around your butt.

If you use tall covers they will touch power brake booster if you have one. I guess you don`t have to worry about the ring around your butt.
;)

I have manual brakes. No brake booster.

If you use tall covers they will touch power brake booster if you have one. I guess you don`t have to worry about the ring around your butt.

To be safe, I changed out for the stock height ones. Thanks for noticing the height.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D141%2D114&FROM=MG

Are you using roller rockers and poly locks?

I found an easy way to not over tighten the valve covers is to snug up all the bolts then take a feeler guage and try to fit it between the gasket and the head. Obviously if it goes thru you need to tighten the bolts a little more, just remember to tighten it a little at a time. Also I use studs just to make sure the gasket doesn't move on me.

This is one thing I simply will not tolerate, and that is anything that leaks onto the engine or engine bay.

I usually purchase the steel shim sandwiched with gasket material. I currently have Moroso's version and you can actually tighten these down hard. If you find it leaking close to one valve cover bolt, you will find that particular bolt is loose compared to the other bolts. I retorque it matching the resistance felt at the other bolts..so far no leaks.
You have to use silicone gasket sealer no matter, especially on the valvcover.

I also used the ones Year one offers, but they have a steel insert at the gasket hole to limit the extent to which you can torque the bolts, thus limiting the pressure on the gasket.
These will leak without gasket sealer because of this, and you will have to be liberal with the silicone--which is something that I would advise against..for obvious reasons.



The fancy one.

what i did with my aftermarket valve covers was to take a scotch brite pad on a die grinder and lightly score the gasket area to remove the shinyness due to the croming and tork to factory specs been on three years and no leaks yet
Bob

Are you using roller rockers and poly locks?

Not sure what "poly locks" are. I have standard rockers under the covers.

You have to use silicone gasket sealer no matter, especially on the valvcover.


So, use RTV Blue between the gasket and the valve cover only, that is what you are referring to, regardless of the type of gasket I purchase?

I'll dis-agree here - silicone sealant gives me the ooogies, and I think it's an excuse for poor preparation / not solving a problem.

Silicone has it's place at joints between gaskets - IMHO nowhere else. It's not a cure-all.

I've been running the same valve cover gaskets since I built the engine in '90 - the GOOD Felpro rubber ones. Also the stock crappy tin valve covers too. They've been on & off a dozen times in 15+ years, and NO leaks. How?

1) Use the "load spreader" thingies.
2) Look at the mounting holes on the valve covers. Is the metal deformed "down" around the holes? If so, a sure sign of overtightening & a source for leaks. Clamp a short strip of 3/8" wood or something in the vise, and invert the cover over it. Tap the metal back down flat.
3) I use a few dabs of Permatex #2 around the rim of the cover, and stick the gasket to the cover.
4) Install the cover, and torque to hand snug, then 1/3 turn more.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i217/JD12585/stuff/th_Elky_033.jpg (http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i217/JD12585/stuff/Elky_033.jpg)

Like I said, 15 years on the same gaskets, and no leaks.

So, use RTV Blue between the gasket and the valve cover only, that is what you are referring to, regardless of the type of gasket I purchase?


Actually, that would be the black silicone although the blue one 'might' be ok. Keep in mind when (or if) you purchase the black silicone that you pick up the right one. There are 2 that look virtually the same, but one is for trim while the other is intended for oil immersed gaskets.

I like to use a 'very' thin film on both the valvecover side and the head side.

If you use the gasket I described "without the insert at the bolt holes", this will allow you to use the sealer conservatively, for the reasons I previously detailed.
I have found the excess do eventually find their way to the oil pan..not by my doing of course.

Lastly, follow John D's advice on checking the valvecovers for trueity and be sure to use the little distribution washers.
I figured this to be common sensical, but it wouldn't hurt as a reminder.



the fancy one.

This is one thing I simply will not tolerate, and that is anything that leaks onto the engine or engine bay.

I usually purchase the steel shim sandwiched with gasket material. I currently have Moroso's version and you can actually tighten these down hard. If you find it leaking close to one valve cover bolt, you will find that particular bolt is loose compared to the other bolts. I retorque it matching the resistance felt at the other bolts..so far no leaks.
You have to use silicone gasket sealer no matter, especially on the valvcover.

I also used the ones Year one offers, but they have a steel insert at the gasket hole to limit the extent to which you can torque the bolts, thus limiting the pressure on the gasket.
These will leak without gasket sealer because of this, and you will have to be liberal with the silicone--which is something that I would advise against..for obvious reasons.



The fancy one.

So are you saying the summit ones are lesser quality in comparison to the Moroso gaskets?

I have new Moroso gaskets with steel in-between. Can I resuse them or do I need to get new ones once I losen the valve covers?

gasket sealer is not the answer you have to score the gasket area on the vavle cover, chrome is very shiny gaskets need a porous area to fill in the gaps just like the cast iron on the head, hey don't believe me but my covers don't leak and they're the cheapest ones i have ever seen
Bob

So are you saying the summit ones are lesser quality in comparison to the Moroso gaskets?

I have new Moroso gaskets with steel in-between. Can I resuse them or do I need to get new ones once I losen the valve covers?



I think you mean 'Year One' not Summit. Its not that Year Ones are inferior (they're not), they just incorporate that steel insert at the bolt hole. This limits the amount of pressure applied to the gasket itself.

I purchased my Moroso gaskets from Summit and they are advertised as being reusable. Keep in mind though, I use them in a manner that they don't anticipate.

I think you mean 'Year One' not Summit. Its not that Year Ones are inferior (they're not), they just incorporate that steel insert at the bolt hole. This limits the amount of pressure applied to the gasket itself.

I purchased my Moroso gaskets from Summit and they are advertised as being reusable. Keep in mind though, I use them in a manner that they don't anticipate.

No, I meant Summit. Here are the gaskets I'm referring to:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG2311&N=%2D77951+115&autoview=sku

Let me know what you think.

I somehow overlooked that one. I purchased the Moroso version thinking it was one of the thicker 'and' better quality ones.

Summits gasket has a total thickness of .200" with a price of $13.95 (quality may be an issue).

The Moroso version has a thickness of .172", priced at $47.95 (little doubt about the quality though).

The Summit gasket is one I will definitely 'try' next time.

I somehow overlooked that one. I purchased the Moroso version thinking it was one of the thicker 'and' better quality ones.

Summits gasket has a total thickness of .200" with a price of $13.95 (quality may be an issue).

The Moroso version has a thickness of .172", priced at $47.95 (little doubt about the quality though).

The Summit gasket is one I will definitely 'try' next time.

Yeah, I'll try the Summit ones next time, now that I have something to compare to.

Thanks.

I forgot to add, there are no indications in the ad suggesting these would have the steel insert within the bolt holes..I think your ok there.

Actually, that would be the black silicone although the blue one 'might' be ok. Keep in mind when (or if) you purchase the black silicone that you pick up the right one. There are 2 that look virtually the same, but one is for trim while the other is intended for oil immersed gaskets.


Can you provide a link to the actual black silicone you are referring to by chance, or at least the brand and type so I know what to look for?

Thanks.

It comes in a black tube with the words Black RTV. Also look for the word "gasket" in there somewhere. I personally think any of them (black, blue or red) will work fine for this purpose, but the black one is specially formulated for it.

Incidentally, I just discovered some new gasket sealer/maker called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. This "stuff" allegedly looks like rubber once it dries.
I'm going to be trying this "stuff" in the future.

I also read that others are using "The Right Stuff" to eliminate the problematic rubber seals at the front and rear of the intake manifold seals. This seems to be a problem with the Air Gap manifolds especially.

It comes in a black tube with the words Black RTV. Also look for the word "gasket" in there somewhere. I personally think any of them (black, blue or red) will work fine for this purpose, but the black one is specially formulated for it.

Incidentally, I just discovered some new gasket sealer/maker called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. This "stuff" allegedly looks like rubber once it dries.
I'm going to be trying this "stuff" in the future.

I also read that others are using "The Right Stuff" to eliminate the problematic rubber seals at the front and rear of the intake manifold seals. This seems to be a problem with the Air Gap manifolds especially.

Thanks for getting back to me. Gonna pick some up tomorrow. :)

Hey man, don't sweat it. They're valve cover gaskets, lol. Just take some good gaskets, (I've always had better luck with cork, but I don't take mine off every week either) and take some soap and water, like dishwashing detergent, and clean up the surface of the head pretty good. This way the RTV will be more apt to stick. It will have some oil left, as it is soaked in to the head surface. Don't sweat it. never hurts. Put a good bit of rtv on both sides of the gasket, and be sure you have scuffed the chrome with some scothch brite or a brillo pad on the gasket surface of the cover as someone else stated.....It should be like this. 1.valve cover, 2. RTV, 3. gasket, 4. RTV, 5. head surface. Simple... Just remember any time you use a gasket it doesn't hurt to add a little sealer or gasket maker in with it. Be sure you wipe off what squeezes out or drips and get it off before it dries. I've done this with everything from water pumps to carbs to valve covers. Sometimes if I don't have any sealer handy, I'll use grease-like axle grease. It just gives the gasket more surface area to conform to irregular surfaces, as is especially the case with heads and valve covers.

I personally like cast aluminum valve covers because of their rigidity. You don't have to worry about warping the rails because of over tightening. the studs are a great idea too.

Hey man, don't sweat it. They're valve cover gaskets, lol. Just take some good gaskets, (I've always had better luck with cork, but I don't take mine off every week either) and take some soap and water, like dishwashing detergent, and clean up the surface of the head pretty good. This way the RTV will be more apt to stick. It will have some oil left, as it is soaked in to the head surface. Don't sweat it. never hurts. Put a good bit of rtv on both sides of the gasket, and be sure you have scuffed the chrome with some scothch brite or a brillo pad on the gasket surface of the cover as someone else stated.....It should be like this. 1.valve cover, 2. RTV, 3. gasket, 4. RTV, 5. head surface. Simple... Just remember any time you use a gasket it doesn't hurt to add a little sealer or gasket maker in with it. Be sure you wipe off what squeezes out or drips and get it off before it dries. I've done this with everything from water pumps to carbs to valve covers. Sometimes if I don't have any sealer handy, I'll use grease-like axle grease. It just gives the gasket more surface area to conform to irregular surfaces, as is especially the case with heads and valve covers.

I personally like cast aluminum valve covers because of their rigidity. You don't have to worry about warping the rails because of over tightening. the studs are a great idea too.

Excellent. Thanks for the write up :) I got some RTV black and am waiting to buy some new valve covers and gaskets to get it all installed at the same time.

It comes in a black tube with the words Black RTV. Also look for the word "gasket" in there somewhere. I personally think any of them (black, blue or red) will work fine for this purpose, but the black one is specially formulated for it.

Incidentally, I just discovered some new gasket sealer/maker called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. This "stuff" allegedly looks like rubber once it dries.
I'm going to be trying this "stuff" in the future.

I also read that others are using "The Right Stuff" to eliminate the problematic rubber seals at the front and rear of the intake manifold seals. This seems to be a problem with the Air Gap manifolds especially.

I bought some and here is a picture for reference.

http://www.dkpeppard.net/shared/pix/rtv_black.jpg