I've got a powerglide behind a mild 350 in a '70 Chevelle and it shifts way too quick. Anything to slow it up so it has a chance to rev up some??????????????

Need to work on the valve body mostly. Use a kit to change the 1-2 shift valve spring. You can also tweak the governor, but it's quite different than the TH ones are and you need to take care doing the tweaking.

The first shift is the ONLY shift in a Powerglide, unless I'm missing something here?

The first shift is the ONLY shift in a Powerglide, unless I'm missing something here?

2-1? does that count?

It shifts too quickly. It's out of first gear before you know it.

Fink City, if this is a fully automatic powerglide it should have throttle pressure linkage from carburetor down to the transmission. This is how you adjust the shift speed on a powerglide. The more pressure, or the further the arm on the transmission is pushing back the later the transmission will shift. This also controls kickdown. If this linkage is missing you need to install it, you will burn up the front clutches without it.
If you don't have the linkage you can temporaraily tie the arm back a little bit until you have some separation on the shift. Adjust it accordingly.
No valve body or governor work is necessary.

Where is this located?

The TV rod which is located between the carb and the center of the trans shift shaft will change shift points a tad. It should reach maximum travel at WOT. There is a locknut to set the length of the rod. Once you do that, and if it still shifts too quickly, it's not something I recommend if you want to get inside to change TV pressures, but every 1 psi change in TV pressure will change WOT shift point by about 1 mph. Each turn of the internal jamb nut is equal to about 3 psi of change. Thus, if you figure out how much it travels, it does not change line pressure to the point that a misadjusted TV rod will cause it to burn up the high gear clutches. If this is properly set, the most simple thing for most to attack is the valve body. The Glide governor is very different than the TH governor. It has a smaller inner weight and a larger outer weight. It's a tough trick to know how much to take off the weights unless you've done a lot of them and know what to do.

Fink City, just a "change shift points a tad" is an incorrect statement. This is the factory adjustment for changing the shift pattern.
I must have adjusted a thousand of these things and never worked on the governor or valve body, not even once.

Yes, I guess you could beat it to death with semantics, lol. The TV pressure works on one end of the 1-2 shift valve along with spring pressure against the governor pressure on the other end of the valve. You pretty much will never have low enough mainline pressure even if the TV rod is way out of adjustment that would burn up high gear. If you have the rod adjusted and are still unhappy with the shift point, you have to move inside the trans, and that's a fact. The two places you move to are first the 1-2 shift valve spring, and then to the governor. That's why when you buy a valve body kit for a Glide that retains automatic shifting in a performance environment the shift valve spring gets tossed and replaced. You have to remember that when you replace the numerically low rear gears with numerically higher ones, you're now causing governor pressure to rise MUCH quicker than it did before the gear swap. The best way to deal with this is to get after the shift valve spring, as tweaking TV pressure is not the best thing to do as it will possibly provide too harsh of a shift at lower road speeds, which you don't necessarily want. Anyhow... I think both of us know how things work in a Glide, so he can try some things and see what happens. :)

It blew up.

Should the upper kickdown linkage rod be set(when gas pedal is not depressed) so that the front of the adjustment slot is making contact with the ball that it rides on? If not how do I adjust the linkage properly...My 1-2 shift is very drawn out like it takes a second or two to shift into second gear. It could be that the trans is on its way out but I just wanted to make sure the kickdown linkage was adjusted right before I look at different option(trans swap).

anybody? Trying to get this adjusted before it gets dark....let me know..Thanks

I don't recall a factory setting, however as you adjust the arm away from the plunger the sooner it will shift. I'd move the adjustment 1/4" and go from there.
Basically adjust the arm on the trans so it start closer to the front of the car.

Unhook the linkage from the carb. Pull the detent rod forward as far as it will go.The stud should reach the end of the slot at wide open throttle. Set this distance/travel with the swivel on the detent rod linkage. This is the factory recommended setting.

will try...thanks

tried to adjust rod....trans shifts into 2nd but just slips...hit the gas and it just builds rpms and doesnt go anywhere. Starting to think i toasted 2nd gear driving around without the linkage hooked up, or could it be slipping from not being adjusted right??

Probably just worn out. First check line pressure at the low servo port on the passenger's side of the case near the cooler line area. Small cast iron triangular cover with the 1/8" NPT plug in it. Get a 0-300 psi gauge and good line, and hook it into the port. See where you are for line pressure in low and second. Let me know. If it's low, it is a pump issue. If ok it's an issue probably with sealing rings/piston seals/clutches worn out. Easy to work on. Pull it out and I'll walk you through a freshen-up if you'd like...

Dropped the pan and found very fine metal shaving....felt like the were sticking together, possibly magnetic or it was just the trans fluid holding them together. Also found a 1/4" x 1/4" piece of rubber on top of the filter (part of the dipstick grommet???) Any ideas on what this could be from? I'd like to somehow flush the trans and put a new filter in to see if this possibly cures the problem.. Any suggestions?