How to weld forward portion of rear 1/4 to rocker? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: How to weld forward portion of rear 1/4 to rocker?


Gary U
Oct 7th, 01, 7:45 PM
I have removed the quarter panel forward of the wheel-well. I cut all the spot welds and removed everything but the rocker which is 100% solid and perfect. The quarter skin I bought had extra material in this area and I was thinking of folding it under like the original, but how to get in there to weld? I'm sure someone will say to use an adhesive, but I question this as there is no way to clamp it together.

Any ideas?

70isfine
Oct 7th, 01, 8:03 PM
Did you try taking the rear interior panel out and going from inside?you could weld it solid to the rocker and then make the "seam" by running a cut off wheel over it.

MAX
Oct 7th, 01, 8:11 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gary U:
I have removed the quarter panel forward of the wheel-well. I cut all the spot welds and removed everything but the rocker which is 100% solid and perfect. The quarter skin I bought had extra material in this area and I was thinking of folding it under like the original, but how to get in there to weld? I'm sure someone will say to use an adhesive, but I question this as there is no way to clamp it together.

Any ideas?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

MAX
Oct 7th, 01, 8:49 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gary U:
I have removed the quarter panel forward of the wheel-well. I cut all the spot welds and removed everything but the rocker which is 100% solid and perfect. The quarter skin I bought had extra material in this area and I was thinking of folding it under like the original, but how to get in there to weld? I'm sure someone will say to use an adhesive, but I question this as there is no way to clamp it together.

Any ideas?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Gary, been thinking about your quarter panel dilema. Might sound crazy but, what do you think about glueing a few short pieces of small angle iron on either side of the joint at three places. one pair foward, one aft and one mid-way of the joint length.now you have "handles" the you can draw tension on to pull the joint together to glue or weld. then grind the angles off. the glue will also act as an insulator for heat during the grinding process. still go slow.if your gonna weld, small "tacks" , no need to weld solid ,and use a good "weld through" zinc primer on the flanges before assy.then seam seal to factory appearance.back to the grinding ... don't use a hard grinding disk ,the style that usually come with an electric grinder when new. they stink for just about everything. go to a welding supply store and get 36 grit ziconia resin fiber disks and a medium hardness backing pad.you'll never (almost) use that hard wheel again. almost forgot... glue? for either the angles or the joint. DURA-MIX, this stuff is sooo cool.you can use it for everything ,I mean it the skies the limit. you get it at auto body supply stores.NOT CHEAP, especially at first since you'll need the gun. get a couple packs of tips, you'll use in way's you don't even know about yet.BEST OF LUCK MAX IN OREGON

sevt_chevelle
Oct 7th, 01, 9:21 PM
A few things about the glue, the gun used for appling the stuff costs around 100 bucks, that is for the 3m gun not sure what the dura mix gun runs but probably around there. They make several different types of glue just make sure you get the one for structual bonding. The 3m part# for that glue is 8115. Also the glue DOES NOT like heat keep welding away from the glue, around 3inches is what 3m suggests. The glue is just like any other glue with too much heat, loses it bond. A way to clamp the piece down would be put in a few sheetmetal screws and after the glue has dried remove them and cover up the hole with more glue. But if I were you,look around for different clamps of various sizes you might just find one that will fit. If not cut it and modify it to meet your needs, I have done this to many of my clamps.

Good luck with your project...Eric