DPLF P-sheet says that "After 1 week surface must be cleaned, sanded, and recleaned" before another coat of DPLF can be applied. Question is how do you sand epoxy, and what grit should I use on it before I (HAVE TO) apply my sealer coat of DPLF? How well does the DPLF fill sanding scratches mixed as a sealer?

Thanks a ton.

Anybody?

There is a good series on this website under restoration shop Restoration shop (http://www.chevelles.com/shop/index.shtml) If this don't help try doing a search in the upper right hand corner for DPLF Primer or primer application. Make sure you you do the search for the Body shop forum.

Well you can sand it with 320-400 on a da sander. Or give it a real good scuffing with a red scuff pad.
DPLF sprayed as a sealer prior to basecoat is a bad idea!!! It WILL suck the gloss out the paint, PPG doesnt recommend this product for a sealer prior to basecoat.

If you want a good sealer use V-seal(das3025), ncs2005 or even k36.

As for DPLF filling sand scratches forget about it. Mixed as a primer it has a film build of around .5mils per coat. Now you reduce it down to a sealer its even less

sevt/all, I should explain what the real problem is here. I am topcoating with bc/cc,(DBC & DCU-2021). Body was stripped to bare metal, etched primed, with DPLF over the etch. The real problem here is that I stupidly put a single stage acrilyc lacquer primer surfacer over the DPLF for blocking. BAD MOVE!!. Now I need to seal this mess before topcoating and was told that the DPLF was my only option. I also prepainted the door hinge and cowl area with acrylic prior to reassembly 6 months ago, and will be REtopcoating some of this area. Do you still recommend DAS-
3025, ncs-2005, or K-36 over the DPLF?

Thanks for the help
Still learning................

Seal it up with DPLF mixed as a sealer.
Am not a fan what so ever of epoxy used as a sealer prior to basecoat. Its biting me in the arse several times...no more

Allow that epoxy to flash off around 45 mins atleast. Then you can apply a primer surfacer for blocking or even apply a sealer like those mentioned before.
No PPG products are compatible, that I know of, with lacquer expect dp and dplf epoxy. So that epoxy is a must.

sevt_chevelle, You mentioned that the DPLF would suck the gloss out of the paint. I am doing a bc/cc job, so the basecoat is flat anyway. Is the gloss sucking (DPLF) still an issue? or would that be more of an issue if I was doing acrylic? What kind of arse biting problems have you had using DPLF?
Experience is second to none.
Thanks for your help.

dplf will absorb solvents when used as a sealer then they are later released through the topcoat which kills the gloss. If you apply the dplf and let it lock up completely 1-week then scuff for the paint application the gloss will be fine. dplf when fully cured is an excellent solvent barrier. Don't load the basecoat on and allow plenty of flash times between coats and also before clearcoat application and you should be alright. I worked in a shop that used laquer primer over old DP epoxy and epoxy as a sealer about 14 years ago and it worked ok. Sometimes if things were rushed the gloss did die out from solvent trapping but if you give the stuff some time the gloss will be ok.

As bob mentioned the epoxy aborbs the solvents then later releases them. This kills the gloss and is called dieback or loss of gloss.
It doesnt matter if the paint is baseclear or synetic enamel it kills it.
Another problem Ive had with the DPLF as a sealer is when doing a blend edge. Any place that the sealer ended you could see that edge. It doesnt melt in like other sealers do. But this problem is ONLY when you seal part of a panel.

As for spraying it then scuffing it a week later, never tried it. But can see that it would be fine.

The only way I have been able to sand epoxy is wet sand with 400. Do you think I Can use a fine scuff pad (scotch bright) without any problems? Will this be to rough and show scratches in the topcoat? What do you think about waiting 4 or 5 days for most of the solvent to release then topcoat, (without scuffing) Think it would work? sure would save alot of sanding, AGAIN

Thanks a lot for the help.

baddbob71? anyone? ever sanded epoxy with any great success. Will a fine scuff pad be to course for a topcoat?

Thanks,
deiinc

You can wetsand the epoxy if it cures for 4-5 days like already mentioned. It will also drysand alright if allowed to go longer. Applying your basecoat directly to the sanded epoxy will work great, I've done it many times with excellent results. Use a grey scotchbright wet on any areas that can't be sanded.

Bob and Eric, Thanks alot for the help. Having to do this is an extra step that I was hoping to avoid. Doing it will be worth it though. I've spent hundreds of hours rebuilding and massaging the body, and have also blocked it 3 times, its now dead nuts straight so with a good paint job this baby should sweet. Thanks again!

Roger

If you feel like wetsanding works the best a gray scuff will work ok. Ive never used on epoxy but a sanding paste might be a good idea. The paste really speeds up the scuffing process, leaves behind IMO a smoother more uniform surface for adhesion.

Several companies make such an animal. PPG makes a product under number DX101, 3M is called scuff it paint prep gel part number 06013.

Just use a scuff pad red or gray in your case gray dip the pad in a bucket of water then apply a light dime sized amount of sanding paste and start scuffing. The stuff really does work great and speeds the operation up...Eric