well i did some pricing in town and they want $250 a side to do them, dont know about that ;) I have a friend, who welds for a living and they own a 65' velle he says he will do it, I guess some people fill in some minor left over gaps and or left over areas in the new welds? bondo some people say, very very little, I thought none on the doors because of the slamming and shutting may crack any ammount of Bondo stuck in there....

where will you get the solinoids for opening the door? I want to do the same thing.

Well, you are going to have to attack this on two fronts...

You have the body work...I'm with you, the less bondo, the better. I would think that with a mig/tig welder and some care fitting the patch pannels, you could make a decent plug that would require minimal, if any plastic.

Then you have the mechanical/electrical side where you need to purchase, hook up and wire solenoids and possibly some type of emergency release just in case.

If the $250 includes, body work, solenoids, installation and wiring and it's quality work, that sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

Its $250 a side Corey, but still like you say, even $500 out the "door" with finish paint and all is a good deal.

Pnutkemist,
If you are worried about the plastic (bondo) taking a beating, you could always use body solder (lead). People have mixed reactions about using body solder, so do some research.

I CAN say there is a pro shop here in Detroit that does muscle car race cars (these cars have the ability to yank the front tires several feet off the ground), and they use lead. These cars hold up very well after several years of abuse (no cracking or "popping out").

Crankshaft

Yeah the place here in Sacramento is $250 per side, out the door with primer on it and no door openers, I was just going to get them welded out first them work on that part of it, I havent even done pricing yet, I'm a little weary to even look at this point. :eek: but yeah, ill just check out a good filler, will probably need very little if any.

Shaved handles?
Ummm...

The amount of filler that will be needed to repair that area after getting shaved will not POP out! There are cars out running around with alot more mud in the doors then that and yet to see any bondo POP out

I wouldnt use LEAD. Health reasons being first on my list, second if you dont know how to use lead right you can do more harm then good.

Slap the mud to it and be done with it graemlins/waving.gif

A great filler would be Rage or Rage gold both made by Evercoat, probably the best stuff out there...Eric

Just a little info for you, I recently did the shaved handles, and did them myself. The 250 they want is decent, if you can do bodywork yourself you can save yourself quite alot of money. I welded them using my mig, and it required very little filler when finished and the body looks great. If you have them do it,(or anyone else) make sure they disconnect your battery before welding on the car, and to remove, or completely cover with leather your windows. Otherwise you will have mini pits all over them from hot metal melting into it.
I used a solenoid/remote kit made by autoloc that I purchased on ebay(cheapest i could find anywhere) make sure you get at least a 40 pound solenoid or it will not easily open your door latch.
Email me if you need more info or have any other que's on the subject. dpayne@foothill.net (I am in Rocklin close to you)

You can rig up some GM starter solenoids for the doors. Just got to make a bracket to attach them and a piece to dtop the spring from pushing the piston out.

Later
Steve

About the starter sylinoids; Yeah I figured it would not be incredibley difficult to conjur something up but the back up way to get inside my car in case the battery or power craps out... I can just keep my windows down until I figure it out :D I can find a place to mount it but I havent even looked around or begin to make it yet, any info on that aspect would be super! But I'll check on those recomend fillers and putty the left overs and I think I'll be good, do you guys have any pics or when you did them?

www.autoloc.com (http://www.autoloc.com)

hey boomhauer... ahhh this place is awesome, the first $400 I get Im going to get one of there kits, thanks!

I just installed a shave kit in an old Chrysler i'm workin on. Theres cheaper kits out there but Autoloc is THE best. ;)

I've done this several times on different types of cars and use Ball's actuators. These are a worm gear type. You can use all the inside door latch opening gear and keep the inside door handle but will need to take the spring off of the part the handle is mounted to. I usually use a magnetic microswitch mounted under a piece of trim and of course you use a small magnet to make contact to open the door. No funky push buttons under the rocker panels.Once the patches are welded in what filler is used will make no difference. Have the guy explain in detail what kind of opener he is going to use and why. This is a very important part. A lot of them don't work well. Is he going to use cable or a solid rod? The price he gave you is cheap compared to the ammount of work involved and the price of the parts.