Anyone that buys a demon check it over well. Ive had an idle issue for the last 3 YEARS. I thought id been through my 750 mighty demon 20 times and in every nook and cranny. Well today i pulled it off to go through it one more time and found a piece of casting in the main body, under one of the air bleeds that was HUGE {inner smaller air bleed on the passenger side front of carb} It was also not floating but connected to the body of the carb yet. I cleaned that out along with the rest of my carb, reset it back to factory spec, and made a modification to the "idle eeze" Well i got it to idle finally and the carb runs a ton better now. If anyone wants to know about the idle eeze mods let me know. It made it so the idle eeze is WAY more tuneable and costs about 10 cents!!
I gotta ask now why is it that i spend 500 dollars on a carb that hasnt been properly gone through? I have a good friend that had the same issue on the road demon in a different spot and have heard numerous accounts on here and other sites confirming that im not the only one. Guys i think its rediculous. You have a good product with some quality control issues..

This will be on the camaro board also...

the metering block to float bowl gasket on mine blocked the squirter shot, its physically impossible for that gasket to shift between their test and my porch, there is no ****ing way that the guy acutally checked my carb, its just not possible.

thank god for both of us its an easy fix and i love hte carb otherwise, but thats just not acceptable...

I took my carb apart and clean it out thoroughly with compress air before installation. I agree, they have very bad quality control. I went out and bought a www.pro-system.com XC 950HP double pumpers. I just installed it in March before leaving for Korea, I have not had an opportunity to really get it adjusted, it was just installed and crank over.
However good luck with the Demon, once you get the bugs work out they can be a very good carb.

Even if no one cares im going to post this anyway, and its on the camaro board also...


Ill post this but im not going to say it will work for everyone.

1st i noticed the idle eeze was either closed or open for results, closed the car wouldnt run and open it ran. There was no tuning.

So 2 years ago i pulled the idle eeze out and tapered the adjustment nut down to try and get a bit more flow for some tuning, it did nothing. So i pulled the brass fitting out and drilled the 4 holes out to .125 if i remember right. It helped a bit but still i wasnt impressed. I hadnt touched the idle eeze for 2 years and today i decided to try somthing else.

I noticed that the brass fiting sat very far down in the baseplate to the point that theres no direct path of air from the hole through the little slot they have that allows air to get through. So i decided to raise it up. I ground a washer down to fit inside the recess in the baseplate to use as a spacer for the brass fitting so as not to allow it to go down as far. The washer was a perfect fit on the brass fitting and i dont have a clue what size it is. I then tightened the fitting down so all 4 holes were aligned with the slots in the baseplate put it back together and whalla. It made it so there was a direct path of air flow and ultimately made the idle eeze tunebale. Now mind you guys i run a large cam in my 350 ci motor with 258/264@.050 so that may make a difference as far as results go. Im not taking responsability for somone screweing up their carb though so try this at your own discression.

I will say that idle quality will increase and decrease with a few turns on the idle eeze now. I still have it all the way open though, and theres more tuning to come!

Nick,

Don't know if this is thread you were referring to at Camaros.net but it deals with a lot of the recent Demon demons . . .

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84401

It's a shame that they seem to be having so much trouble getting their carbs out the door without metal chips -- I've got a 4-5 year old Speed Demon that is just killer, its the new ones (like the last 1-2 years) that the QC seems to be inconsistent with.

Hey Nick, Did you take any pics? I noticed my idle-eez didn't have much affect either. I thnk I may try your mod.

Sounds like a good deal....

The Barry Grant carbs may have some quality control issues within the last 1-2 years, but once you get past that, they are still the best production carbs available, IF YOU KNOW HOW TO TUNE THEM.

As you know, most guys don't take the time to understand each element of a carb, and what purpose it provides in life on the engine, and then to properly tune it.

Most want to just take it out of the box, put it on the intake, and then drive. Each engine is like a person, they have different personalities, and need to be tuned accordingly. What works on one, may not work on another.

they are still the best production carbs available :rolleyes:

I would argue that point til I'm blue in the face. I know several folks that have had trouble with BG carbs mainly the older models, but why all the metal shavings in the carb? The only thing BG has over Holley is the billet baseplate. I don't like how the float bowl fits over the metering block on the BG either. I know Bill Burke loves his King Demon, but I would take a Holley HP model over a BG any day.

If you get a good one it could be one of the best carbs out there for the money. Unfortunately the trouble is getting a good one . . . you just don't know.

I spent a LOT of time tuning a new 800 Mighty Demon (after getting all the chips out) changed every hole in that carb, used an LM-1 and now it runs almost as fast as my old 750 Speed Demon. There's just something not quite right with this new carb . . .

Well after tuning the carb the other night and getting it pretty much right on i fired it up cold today, within 20 seconds i got an idle and i barly had to feather it the first 20 seconds. Never happened before!! Im stoked!!

Troy70 I could take some pics of the carb and when i do ill have to have somone tell me how to post them. Im a computer idiot...

Well we have our rant to tell about Demon Carbs....

Bought a brand new King Demon 1050. Opened the box and out fell all the inspection tags etc......

We installed it on the 555 this summer along with a new victor intake. Installed all new fuel lines pump etc. As always before trying to fire up the car I had dad go hit the key so we can check for leaks etc.

He hits the key and the fuel just POURS out of the carb in various spots. Most noticable is around the float scopes and rear bowl area. WTF! We pull it off and tighten all the bolts which seemed pretty loose. Stick it back on and key it again. Still leaking! Really getting ****ed now. I turn the snapring on the float scope, which seems to seat better and that leak stops. Still the back bowl is pouring gas out onto the intake.

We pull it off the car again, now about 1 hour into this and mad as heck. Pull the back bowl off and find that the 3 of the 4 bolts in the back have NO o-ring, hence the leaking. Replace these o-rings but in the meantime figure we best take it completely apart and check everything.

Pull the bowls off and find all sorts of machining debris inside the carb - now about to take it to Demon and throw it through the front window their place. Get it all cleaned out and put it back together.

Check the key, and its all sealed as far as looking at the outside of it. We go through and check try to set the fuel pressure so pump is running for about 3 minutes or so while I adust the pumps regulator to about 13psi and then the fronts to about 6 psi. Just before we were about to put the spark to the entire thing we make one last sweep of the car to make sure no fuel is laying anywhere and I catch the odor of gas, real strong. I walk over to the drivers door and its super strong there, I am like WTF??? I get down and look under the car and fuel is just POURING out of the header pipe! I about crap my pant and tell dad to kill the key.

Here we find that the seat valve has no o-ring on it, allowing the fuel to just flow directly into the motor, the motor was completely FLOODED with fuel. Oil etc all needed to be drained. I could have killed someone. 60 dollars worth of synthetic BRAND new oil. Not to mention about 4 hours of unneeded work. Had to pull all the plugs and let it drain the cylinders etc.

Never did call them, but swore I was going to. Had we screwed up the motor over this ordeal trying to start it, there would have been hell to be paid somewhere. But I know what it would be like trying to money out of them.

Its a shame to buy something like that and have these sorta problems. Hope someone reads this and realizes they are screwing themselves.

I will say that the carb does and has worked flawlessly after we fixed their screwups. The car starts on a 1/2 turn of the motor and idles perfectly and runs great - but I would imagine any 1050 would perform the same, maybe even better. Still ****ed about the whole episode and hope that it costs them a sale of a another one by someone reading this.

Hate to sound bitter, but its rediculous - especially since we could have bent a rod or something had we hydrolocked that motor. ahhhhhh I just hate to think that could have happen so easily had we not made that last sweep making sure everything was ok and no more leaks were present.

I don;t want to bad mouth any company and the Tech@BG has been helpful to me in the past and is a good guy.

With that said, I find it funny how Demon owners swear the carbs are great after having to clean, modify, tune for days, drill, etc.. If you put that same effort into any other carb it would be awesome too, right? Might as well start off with a Holley core and build your own custom carb. I think Demons are very nice looking carbs but, for my money I will stick to what I know works. I hope BG gets it all figured out before it's too late. I am a member of several online forums and it's the same story on every one of them. I think if you are a good tuner/mechanic (Eric68 and others), you can make them work. I think the problem happens when someone with less experience tries to bolt one on and make basic adjustments.

Why should you buy a brand new part and "have" to take it apart and install missing O rings, remove metal shavings, drill holes, repair stripped threads, etc..? The are not carb "kits" they are supposed to be working/tested units, correct? That is where the problem comes in as a customer service minded person (me), if you can't fix the problem you better be able to fix the customer. Which means set expectations, put a tag on or in the box that say "Possible modifications and advanced tuning procedures required" and/or "disassembly and cleaning required before use" at least if that was done people "couldn't" complain that they found shavings or other issues. Of course the best fix is to step up the quality control and not have these issues. They are finicky carbs to tune and that just comes with the territory.

Ask yourself if you bought a brand new TV or oven, brought it home and had to open it up to "fix" it before you could use it, what would you do? how would you feel? Same deal here.

That's my take on it, for what it's worth.