Right now I have my 468 short block sitting in front of me. It's come time for me to throw on the heads and seal up the engine. Before I do, I was trying to think of anything I needed/wanted to do before the "point of no return".

The only thing I can think of is the rod bolts I used. They are stock style 3/8 rod bolts. It will rev to 6,000 and I predict torque #s around 600.

Is it worth switching to ARP wave lock bolts?
Would I have to knock the pistons back out to replace them?

Maybe , I'm just second guessing too much.... thoughts?

Jim

you definatly have to have the rods resized when you move the rod bolts. If you dont they will burn the brgs up. The bolts is what centers the caps to the rod itself and the harder material of the arp bolt requires more torque to stretch the bolt and it will definatly distort the rod.Don't try changing the bolts without resizing the rods.

I would feel better knowing that it won`t be the rod bolts that destroyed my motor at 6000 rpm. A little insurance but you will have to get the machine shop to do the work. as the last post stated.

I myself would never put stock rods in a motor without replacing the rod bolts.And yes, you do have to remove the pistons to do this.Rod bolts have more stress on them,than any other one component on a motor .It's your call, but to me, it's cheep insurance.

I was questioning the bolts I used after I read an article on wave lock bolts and thier 220,000 psi strength rating and engines that took a dirt nap because they didn't use them and blah blah...

Well, after going back and digging up my receipt, I did notice that they are better than stock. They are 8740 chrome moly steel, rated at 190,000 psi. I don't know what stock bolts are rated at but I would guess I'm in-between a stock bolt and something like wave lock.

I'd like to think I'm ok but I'd like to hear what others are using with success. So, who is running what and with what kind of power/rpm/torque??

Thanks for the feed back.

Jim

Shifting at 5500 or less button it UP unless you want to rebuild those rods agian. And more since your last post.

ARP waveloks on rods I HANDSOMELY polished fully when I was 17 ( 7/16" L88), rebsuhed the ends, rebuilt both ends obvisouly, swinging medlite SRP slugs. 7000 all day long. Approx 7000 mi. on an enginepull pan gasket redo,and it looks MINT inside. Like new.

Asking the setup to go ust a little bit higher as valve springs are nice tight ISKY's. 8000 float, 7400 rev limiter. I'll just try and not "unass it" as much and hope to get a good long life out of the old L88. RODS ARE THE ONLY ORIGINAL PART LEFT. :thumbsup:

I was questioning the bolts I used after I read an article on wave lock bolts and thier 220,000 psi strength rating and engines that took a dirt nap because they didn't use them and blah blah...

Well, after going back and digging up my receipt, I did notice that they are better than stock. They are 8740 chrome moly steel, rated at 190,000 psi. I don't know what stock bolts are rated at but I would guess I'm in-between a stock bolt and something like wave lock.

I'd like to think I'm ok but I'd like to hear what others are using with success. So, who is running what and with what kind of power/rpm/torque??

Thanks for the feed back.

Jim

I ran the ARP 8740 3/8's bolts in truck rods for years with no issues. Engine was a race only 468 that saw 6800-7000 rpm most of the time, and 7500 more than it should have. I personally don't think you will have any issues.

Changing to HP rod bolts is one item I NEVER compromise on. I ALWAYS install ARP rod bolts in every engine I build. :D

That's what I have in my 460 motor now. WHen I bought the bolts, I thought I had ordered WaveLok, but have the standard type by ARP. THese are in truck rods. Used the same ARP that you have in the 408 motor with good results to 6200-6300 regularly.

ARP are overengineered in a good way. Those bolts are fine.

Joe, you have to try and make it up for the Niagara Regional next year! And I hope we got a lot of people convinced to go down to MD for their 20th anniversary show!

One added note, I used ARP main bolts (block was already line honed with bolts so I just replaced the stock bolts with ARP's as well as the rod bolts. I did not have a stretch guage. Retorqued the mains and rods probably 4 times over the course of several days. Seemed like each time I did it. I would get just a slight amount of added movement. Not really a large amount, but enough to let me know that it was accomplishing something.