Well, the horse moved, so I'm gonna beat it just a tad more..

Bought a really cheap can of PCL (Pacific Coast Lacquers) "primer/surfacer" because I wanted something more to test out an equally cheap gun. Didn't want to waste money on a bunch of good stuff tweaking and playing with a cheap gun, ya know...?

Well, one thing led to another and before we knew it we have both quarters and both doors primered with the stuff and coated pretty well on bare metal and a little skin coat filler here n' there. This raises a future process kind of question...

If we left the El Cheapo P/S on there and sealed over it, would that make for a reasonable base to paint on later? I won't be doing the paint work, but would like to get it up to that stage for a yet-to-be-determined party to do the actaul paint.

Recommend a good sealer? Recommend re-stripping?
Sealer brand/part #...?


Just need some input at this point!

-c

How long do you want the paint job to last? If this car is a keeper then ditch the laquer primer and start over with a self etching primer or epoxy then a urethane primer surfacer. There are many good economy etch, epoxy and urethane primers available if cost is a concern and no reason to use the laquer primer. For the best job with a lifetime warranty you'll need to stick with one manufacturer. PPG, Dupont, and Sikkens rank at the top of the list IMO. But for undercoats and clears Transtar, Valspar, Evercoat, and Morton offer economical alternatives. You could also go with Dupont's economy line-Nason or PPG's- Omni and get better results than using the laquer primer you have now. There's lots to choose from. Bob

Look at it this way, a paint job is only as good as the weakest link. That el-cheapo primer would be it. I like to start with a etch primer, full flash off followed by a 2k Urethane. Epoxy is another good starting point.I also advise to pick a paint line and stick with it from prime to topcoat, and read the tech sheets for the materials you use.

So, a lacquer primer is really THAT bad huh?
I guessed that at the very bottom end, you do get what you pay for (or don't get), but I'm curious what the use is for this stuff if it is truly that bad, and how a market continues to exist to sell the stuff? I mean, if it's literally going to fall off in a year or two, does the paint-it-and-sell-it market really support enough sales?

You correctly suggested that cost IS a factor at this point, so if one goes to a Nasson or an Omni, do we shoot ourselves in the foot by limiting future options?

Also, a "good" etch primer and 2K urethane... what could I expect to pay for a gallon? I realize I can call the paint shop but for the sake of discussion (and they're closed today...)

Oh, and also... When stripping the lacquer primer, does it need to be removed to the last speck, or just to expose the metal? There's some plastic filler underneath and I'd be concerned about reshaping some of it if we just start grinding away and not really need to.

-curt

Complete stripping to the last speck?
Almost..?
Sort-of...?

Easier and more cost effective to strip NOW then 5 years down the road when the car is done and painted.

First lacquer primer has NO corrosion resistance, and you have it sprayed on bare metal.
Second off lacquer primer has very little fill or build properties compared to modern primers.
Thirdly it likes to shrink back. This will allow you see all sorts of cool things like sand scratches