I drove my malibu 160 miles with only 2 stops. Once for gas and then Cal-trans was working on the road. The temp was 98 when I started and about 78 once I finished. The Pro-Systems 1100 worked perfect. I have 3.55 gears and turbo 400 my speeds were about 80 and 65 mph. Drum roll........mileage was 13.333 I used 12 gallons of 91.

I drove my malibu 160 miles with only 2 stops. Once for gas and then Cal-trans was working on the road. The temp was 98 when I started and about 78 once I finished. The Pro-Systems 1100 worked perfect. I have 3.55 gears and turbo 400 my speeds were about 80 and 65 mph. Drum roll........mileage was 13.333 I used 12 gallons of 91.

13.3 is great! I would not have expected it to be that good.

I drove my malibu 160 miles with only 2 stops. Once for gas and then Cal-trans was working on the road. The temp was 98 when I started and about 78 once I finished. The Pro-Systems 1100 worked perfect. I have 3.55 gears and turbo 400 my speeds were about 80 and 65 mph. Drum roll........mileage was 13.333 I used 12 gallons of 91.

Hey BEN (Bob) sorry about changing your name ,:clonk:
Glad to hear you are havin fun,,,
You mean that thing actually made it that far?? :D

Cal-trans is ALWAYS SCREWING WITH HWY 20 :sad: ,, I think it is their test road for trainees,,,,

I guess this means that Dominators do not need power valves to work on the street & it is just possible Patrick knows what he is doing :D

ehh, I would like to see the air fuel ratio before I condem power valves. Just being a cautious skeptic:) 13 mpg, that ain't bad.

Very impressive!!

No doubt Patrick knows his stuff!

JIM

13.3 with a 540 in a heavy car and auto trannny, Wow. Now get it to the strip and find out what the real important numbers are !!!

Hey Bob,
I guess this means that Dominators do not need power valves to work on the street & it is just possible Patrick knows what he is doing :D
I guess I don't understand what you mean by this? I would hope a high dollar modified carb would not need a power valve if it were calibrated to run without one. If you can improve the streetablity of a box stock 3 circuit Dominator by putting a $13 power valve in it, whats wrong with that? I'm not sure what your point is Mike?

I guess I don't understand what you mean by this? I would hope a high dollar modified carb would not need a power valve if it were calibrated to run without one. If you can improve the streetablity of a box stock 3 circuit Dominator by putting a $13 power valve in it, whats wrong with that? I'm not sure what your point is Mike?
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I thought the point was pretty simple,
It has been said that you need a power valve to make a Dominator work on the street.
Well Patrick's seem to work quite well without one.
I ain't saying you can't do things more than one way, the post should have been self-explanatory.
It was a compliment to Patrick's ability to tune a Holley, nothing more.
Don't read more into a post than is there :D

thats pretty impressive 13mpg . i drove half that far with 4:10,s and it took me 3 tanks round trip. enjoy the weekend bb485 and have a safe trip home talk to you later this week when your back.

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I thought the point was pretty simple,
It has been said that you need a power valve to make a Dominator work on the street.
Well Patrick's seem to work quite well without one.
I ain't saying you can't do things more than one way, the post should have been self-explanatory.
It was a compliment to Patrick's ability to tune a Holley, nothing more.
Don't read more into a post than is there :D

Well said Wolfplace.

Am I correct in saying that the reason a power valve is needed in a dominator carb that is run on the street is due to the lean condition created by the volume of air the dominator carb can induce under a load that is created quickly by the flogging of the accelerator?

It has been said that you need a power valve to make a Dominator work on the street.
Well Patrick's seem to work quite well without one.

As do others...
In fact, the same point I tried to make a few weeks ago. Won't find a PV in my car.
Similar fuel figures too...13.3 gallons per mile is about right. ;)

Well said Wolfplace.

Am I correct in saying that the reason a power valve is needed in a dominator carb that is run on the street is due to the lean condition created by the volume of air the dominator carb can induce under a load that is created quickly by the flogging of the accelerator?
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If I understand your question I think the transition circuit along with the accelerator circuit is what would be responsible for curing any off idle lean condition??
It is also why some Dominators have a third circuit which can it seems give people fits with an over rich condition at light throttle with some combos.
This apparently includes Patrick as he has said that if you get an over rich issue first thing you try is to pull the intermediate air bleed out & put it in your pocket for street driving & reinstall it at the track,,
This renders the circuit non operable.

I am far from a carb "expert",, this is why I rely on people who are.
But my understanding is normally a power valve is a good thing for a street deal as you can tune part throttle AFR (air fuel ratio) with the jet & full throttle with the PVCR's (power valve channel restrictions) & you tune the beginning of the transition point to full rich with the power valve.
You can tune cruise when the power valve is closed to a decent air fuel ratio & then add fuel via the PVCR circuit by upping the size of the restrictions until WOT (wide open throttle) is correct for best power.

But it appears that the carb can be made to work quite well by doing the tuning with just jets, emulsion circuits & the air bleeds given the way Patrick's carb seems to perform.

Mike,
"Hey Bob" should have been "Hey Ben".

Ben,
You must have a whole helluva lot more restraint than me, I don't believe that I have managed 3.3 mpg.
What RPM are you wringing that thing out to?
I know that you are not using a PCV, what are you doing about crankcase pressure? Or hasn't it been a problem.

I have a breather on each valve cover (holes have internal baffles) and filler plug (non baffled). Occasionally I will see a cloud of smoke out the back, right about the time I shift. It's kinda embarassing. I'll pull over to find either one of the breathers popped up, sometimes off all together, the dipstick tube pushed up or the oil fill plug cover gone (lost two). In any case, the valve covers, fenderwell, hood and headers get drenched in oil. At one point a breather was swapped out for a PCV, it didn't help. I don't have enough to vacuum for the transmission modulator to operate properly anyway, the PCV makes it almost non-existent.

I'm thinking that keeping the R's down a little might cure it, but on the same hand, until I can managed a little better traction, I don't see that happening. The RPM drop if short shifted due to tire spin sucks, so I have a tendency to hold first until the tires catch up (obviously most of my WOT is on the street, not exactly looking for consistency, just speed).

I really don't want to go the vacuum pump route. I'd much rather try a more free flowing breather with a possible accumulator/reservoir. Has anybody tried this with or without success?

Mike,
"Hey Bob" should have been "Hey Ben".

Ben,
You must have a whole helluva lot more restraint than me, I don't believe that I have managed 3.3 mpg.
What RPM are you wringing that thing out to?
I know that you are not using a PCV, what are you doing about crankcase pressure? Or hasn't it been a problem.

I have a breather on each valve cover (holes have internal baffles) and filler plug (non baffled). Occasionally I will see a cloud of smoke out the back, right about the time I shift. It's kinda embarassing. I'll pull over to find either one of the breathers popped up, sometimes off all together, the dipstick tube pushed up or the oil fill plug cover gone (lost two). In any case, the valve covers, fenderwell, hood and headers get drenched in oil. At one point a breather was swapped out for a PCV, it didn't help. I don't have enough to vacuum for the transmission modulator to operate properly anyway, the PCV makes it almost non-existent.

I'm thinking that keeping the R's down a little might cure it, but on the same hand, until I can managed a little better traction, I don't see that happening. The RPM drop if short shifted due to tire spin sucks, so I have a tendency to hold first until the tires catch up (obviously most of my WOT is on the street, not exactly looking for consistency, just speed).

I really don't want to go the vacuum pump route. I'd much rather try a more free flowing breather with a possible accumulator/reservoir. Has anybody tried this with or without success?
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Hey Rowdy,
Thanks, brain fade,,,, :clonk:
Sorry Ben,,

Yes, I have done this in a couple of deals
Installed a remote accumulator with a breather with a line from each valve cover.
It has a little deal on the bottom so you can drain it.
Have you tried lowering the oil level? It sounds like you may be getting the crank into the oil
Are the breathers placed between the rockers?
On another what was done is a flat sheet of aluminum was epoxied on three sides to the inside of the cover leaving just the back open.
It was side to side & about 4 inches long with just an eighth inch or so between the cover & the "deflector"
I have a friend up in Canada that has solved his oiling issue with some sort of separator that is used by the turbo guys & I will try to find the info he sent me.
If I can't I will give him your email so he can explain it first hand. As I recall it really worked good for him.
He has a 400 that he "wrings out" pretty good & I think he was having the same issues you are having.

=
I thought the point was pretty simple,
It has been said that you need a power valve to make a Dominator work on the street.
Well Patrick's seem to work quite well without one.
I ain't saying you can't do things more than one way, the post should have been self-explanatory.
It was a compliment to Patrick's ability to tune a Holley, nothing more.
Don't read more into a post than is there :D

I have one non HP Dominator, box stock, that does not need a power valve to have good part throttle performance. I have another HP style that does.

Of course it could be modified by Pro Systems or several others out there, to run great without a power valve. These guys including Patrick are great at what they do. A friend of mine bought an 1150 HP style Dominator from BRE(Book Racing Ent.) It has amazing throttle response, great part throttle, and great top end. It made I think 8 HP more on his engine (850+HP 520"BBC) than my 1150 did. It also cost $1400. My 1150 with a $12 powervalve on the primary side runs very close to this $1400 billet booster, billet metering block highly modified carb.

What I don't understand is the opinion that a power valve is somehow a bad thing? The specs for my 1150HP says it comes stock with a power valve and power valve blow out protection. I can say it definitely performs better at part throttle with the power valve, which is the way it came from Holley.

My not understanding your point is the way you make it sound like not running a power valve is somehow better than running with one. Maybe it is, I'm sure no expert!:)

I have one non HP Dominator, box stock, that does not need a power valve to have good part throttle performance. I have another HP style that does.

Of course it could be modified by Pro Systems or several others out there, to run great without a power valve. These guys including Patrick are great at what they do. A friend of mine bought an 1150 HP style Dominator from BRE(Book Racing Ent.) It has amazing throttle response, great part throttle, and great top end. It made I think 8 HP more on his engine (850+HP 520"BBC) than my 1150 did. It also cost $1400. My 1150 with a $12 powervalve on the primary side runs very close to this $1400 billet booster, billet metering block highly modified carb.

What I don't understand is the opinion that a power valve is somehow a bad thing? The specs for my 1150HP says it comes stock with a power valve and power valve blow out protection. I can say it definitely performs better at part throttle with the power valve, which is the way it came from Holley.

My not understanding your point is the way you make it sound like not running a power valve is somehow better than running with one. Maybe it is, I'm sure no expert!:)

Damn J,,
I never said it was better or worse, just that it works
I will repeat what I said, "it was a compliment to Patrick nothing else".
Read the whole thread including the answer to running a power valve.
As I said, do not read more into a post than is there :)

In fact, so you don't have to go all the way back up three posts,,,, :D

Here is a quote of what I said:
I am far from a carb "expert",, this is why I rely on people who are.
But my understanding is normally a power valve is a good thing for a street deal as you can tune part throttle AFR (air fuel ratio) with the jet & full throttle with the PVCR's (power valve channel restrictions) & you tune the beginning of the transition point to full rich with the power valve.
You can tune cruise when the power valve is closed to a decent air fuel ratio & then add fuel via the PVCR circuit by upping the size of the restrictions until WOT (wide open throttle) is correct for best power.

But it appears that the carb can be made to work quite well by doing the tuning with just jets, emulsion circuits & the air bleeds given the way Patrick's carb seems to perform.

Jay I,m not a carb expert but I think there's more to it than just pluging in a power valve and changing the jetting. My motor has spot on throttle response in all ranges.

Damn J,,
I never said it was better or worse, just that it works
I will repeat what I said, "it was a compliment to Patrick nothing else".
Read the whole thread including the answer to running a power valve.
As I said, do not read more into a post than is there :)

In fact, so you don't have to go all the way back up three posts,,,, :D

Here is a quote of what I said:
I am far from a carb "expert",, this is why I rely on people who are.
But my understanding is normally a power valve is a good thing for a street deal as you can tune part throttle AFR (air fuel ratio) with the jet & full throttle with the PVCR's (power valve channel restrictions) & you tune the beginning of the transition point to full rich with the power valve.
You can tune cruise when the power valve is closed to a decent air fuel ratio & then add fuel via the PVCR circuit by upping the size of the restrictions until WOT (wide open throttle) is correct for best power.

But it appears that the carb can be made to work quite well by doing the tuning with just jets, emulsion circuits & the air bleeds given the way Patrick's carb seems to perform.

OK OK! I missed that. Cut me some slack, I just got back from vacation yesterday, haven't even seen a computer for a week!:D I read the first part and skipped the other. My bad.:clonk:

Some people always seem to have the opinion that using a power valve is a bad thing. To me it's not, it's just another tuning aid you have at your disposal. If it works, run it. If not, don't.:)

I read that opinion into your other post and apparently, I was wrong(I hate it when that happens):o . Sorry! Not the first time, or the last I'm sure.;)

Jay I,m not a carb expert but I think there's more to it than just pluging in a power valve and changing the jetting. My motor has spot on throttle response in all ranges.

No doubt about that. But in my situation, the power valve had been removed and jetting changed to make up for that. This caused an overly rich condition at part throttle, for my car it was during a burnout or on the return road.

Putting the power valve back in, the way the carb was delivered from Holley, and making the jet change, it put the carb back the way it was intended to be run, which solved the part throttle problem for me.

OK OK! I missed that. Cut me some slack, I just got back from vacation yesterday, haven't even seen a computer for a week!:D I read the first part and skipped the other. My bad.:clonk:

Some people always seem to have the opinion that using a power valve is a bad thing. To me it's not, it's just another tuning aid you have at your disposal. If it works, run it. If not, don't.:)

I read that opinion into your other post and apparently, I was wrong(I hate it when that happens):o . Sorry! Not the first time, or the last I'm sure.;)
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Well,, ok, slack is adjusted ,,, just don't let it happen again,, :D :D
Just kidding in case you "missed" the smiley faces,,, :p

BTW, what the hell is a vacation?? Strange word,,, is that like when we close the gate & let the Wolves out,, :confused:

vacation.....thats like those few hours that I go to bed after work so I can be ready to get up and do it again right............

Back to the power valve deal....Id say it can be comparable to vac advance on the street. Im a big proponent of using a vac advance right for a street car. However...there are plenty of street guys out there that have put the time and effort into tuning up a locked out igniion properly, and it works just fine....no vac advance....just locked out mechanical and good results. And I beleive Mike is speaking of the same stuff with the power valve. Most stick with a PV and it often makes tuning a lil maneagable for a carb novice like myself. Thats why most will tell you to also use a PV in a street car. Of course, just like with the ignition.....Mike was eluding to the fact that there are guys getting just fine results without one. I dont think I would get the results without one, cause I dont trust my carb tuning skills well enough to make it work. So, you wont convince me to get rid of a PV(unless there is a good tuner handy to fix the probs I create). But Id say Mike was merely "busting the myth" that street cars cannot run with without a power valve, cause it can work just fine as long as your smarter than me hehe.

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Well,, ok, slack is adjusted ,,, just don't let it happen again,, :D :D
Just kidding in case you "missed" the smiley faces,,, :p

BTW, what the hell is a vacation?? Strange word,,, is that like when we close the gate & let the Wolves out,, :confused:

For me, it was living in my travel trailer for six days, eating too much and sleeping late. There were several good naps thrown in for good measure. Both my kids were gone, one to Boston, NY, PA, DC, other places for two weeks. I asked my wife, why do we spend $3000 on the kids to do cool stuff and we get to stay in the trailer every year? One of these days.... we will get to have the cool vacation!


Of course we just used my other son being at an aquatics sciences camp at a college that is 5 hours away from home as an excuse to camp out and wait to pick him up. That's about as good as it gets lately!
One of these days.......

I am seriously considering the "power valve/drop 9 primary jet sizes" deal that Patrick recommends (secondary to the "pocket the intermediate air bleeds").

I have absolutely no complaints in the power department, WOT is phenomenal, and like Ben, throttle response is excellent at all speeds. I have never had as much as a hesitation or cough at any RPM, whether easing in to the throttle or full on stomping the go pedal. I do, however, have a part throttle condition that seems to resemble an overly rich mixture, sorta like "loading up". When cruising at almost any RPM, below 3K, give or take a couple 100rpm, there is a very noticeable studder. Not necessarily a miss, kinda feels more like when you used to have a set of points starting to crap out on you or even a little how valve float feels, except it's not at the end of your power band. Just a "Brrrr..Uh...Brrrr,Brrr,Brrrr..Uh..Uh..Brrr.." That may not translate right, just think of how a Top Fueler idles. it sounds nasty as all he!!, but there is a distinctive studder to it.

It doesn't seem to have any effect on performance, the plugs don't foul or anything and as soon as I call on it, it's definitely all there.

Have any of you experienced similar behavior?

Does it come with the territory?

It wasn't nearly as prominant before. Could the triple digit ambient temperatures be partially to blame?

I did have some serious fuel problems, bowl boil and heat soak, as summer temps neared the 100's, but haven't had a problem since the bypass regulator and return system was finished. I will say that that my fuel pressure is nearly 9 lbs. With the disparity between my 1/2" feed and 5/16" return, that is pretty much the bottom of my regulated range at idle, with 13volts. It has never given any indication of over powering the needle or seat. I'd heard that ProSystems carbs are usually good for up to 10psi.

I have also incorporated a 3/4", wooden spacer. I have seen many posts professing the need for increased jetting with spacer installs. However, very little change was evident, same goes when the intermediate air bleeds were removed. Is it just me, or doesn't it seem that some kind of adjustment should have been necessary?

Forgot something, I have a small cache of PV's from dickin' around with the 850DP 4150 Holley that had once been on my previous 439 BBC. I don't see any of these being applicable though, as I believe 6.5 to be the lowest in the lot. My vacuum at idle (upon last check) was 5" max, approaching 10" at 2K.

What PV would anybody recommend? Or, should I reserve this question for Patrick? One thing about it, Patrick James backs his sh!t!!! I have never had the pleasure of having any tech support so dependable. If you get a recording, you can well expect a returned phone call. Every single time I have called, he either answered immediately or returned my call personally.
It is quite refreshing to deal with a knowledgeable representative of a product after the purchase. So many others seem so disconnected.

For the record, Art at COAN was pretty punctual also.