do we have like an equivilent(spelling?) to the kelsey blue book, but for muscle cars?

got a 68 chevelle coupe, originally a 307 pg 10 bolt car.

Has been 90% restored. (only missing link is the body was not taken off frame)

new fuel system
-lines
-hoses
-tank
-carb
-pump
new brake system (proper disc conversion)
-new booster
-master cylinder
-lines & hoses
-calipers
-proportioning valve or w/e you want to call it
rebuilt engine
-66 chevelle 396 L35
rebuilt tranny
-th400

all new suspension
-springs, bushings, ball joints, bearings, all new
-control arms were all removed, blasted, and painted

correct bucket seats, new vinyl
new dash pad
new steering wheel
new carpet & headliner

all new body except the doors and the roof. Everything else has been replaced.

fresh paint

whats this car worth?

do we have like an equivilent(spelling?) to the kelsey blue book, but for muscle cars?

nope

got a 68 chevelle coupe, originally a 307 pg 10 bolt car.

Has been 90% restored. (only missing link is the body was not taken off frame)

new fuel system
-lines
-hoses
-tank
-carb
-pump
new brake system (proper disc conversion)
-new booster
-master cylinder
-lines & hoses
-calipers
-proportioning valve or w/e you want to call it
rebuilt engine
-66 chevelle 396 L35
rebuilt tranny
-th400

all new suspension
-springs, bushings, ball joints, bearings, all new
-control arms were all removed, blasted, and painted

correct bucket seats, new vinyl
new dash pad
new steering wheel
new carpet & headliner

all new body except the doors and the roof. Everything else has been replaced.

fresh paint

whats this car worth?

What ever someone is willing to pay.

You could list it on ebay and find out.

Theres the Gold Book (http://www.manheimgold.com) which says the following for your car:


1969 CHEVY/CHEVELLE MALIBU Dsp/HP Eng Fair Good Exc Show Loan
2D SPORT HARDTOP 1968-69 307/200 V8 5,000 9,400 17,500 21,000 8,500



But like Dean said, it's whatever a buyer will pay. Many factors go into resale value.

whatever you do, don't waste money on an appraiser. i don't think i've ever seen one that was not on the high side. those appraisers also do everything from a model T to a callaway corvette, they aren't experts on your car usually. it's like dean says, it's worth what someone will pay. but i have a '68 and i usually take note of '68's on ebay, auctions, etc... so here goes: in my humble opinion, a clean bucket seat, BB, no rust, desireable color combo, floor shift, sitting right,.....you should expect lower to mid teens. i saw a super clean smallblock '68 go for $19K on ebay about a month ago. actually, i didn't see the auction end, it was up to that, might have went higher. but this was a mint survivor, well equiped.

yea a guy was ready to take it for $20,000 the other day. Im not ready to sell it just yet, im just trying to see what i got

IMO take the 20k if it was a real offer. I am basing my opinion on the pics in your signature. It is a nice car but is missing the extra detail I personally would expect for a $20k Malibu. When you did the body did you use patch panels, partial quarters or full quarters? Have you put the fender chrome on yet?
Considering what you brought the car back from, I wouldn't even think of getting rid of it :)

yea, like i said, im not in the market to sell, im looking into certain insurance and registration to make it a registered classic car and the insurer is supposed to appraise it, i wanna make sure they are on the ball

Well if you're looking for a value to insure it at, consider what you'd be willing to pay for it yourself. Think about the money and time you spent to get this one where it is.

I'd ask my insurance agent what different insured values will cost you, and let that factor in. If insuring it for 20 grand only cost a hundred dollars a year more than insuring it for 15 grand, seems like a no brainer.

For 20 grand I'd probably sell my 68 SS-396 for that much. And I think its pretty nice.

Don't insure it for what it's worth, you will just be thowing premium money at the insurance company. Insure it for what you have in it (hopefully less than true value) and forget about your labor, doesn't count. Also be sure and ask for a "Stated Value" amount that you want to insure it for. That way you get the Stated Value amount and not some stupid depreciated value calculation that ends up giving you a check for $800 bucks because the car is "so old"

Consider the odds that the car ends up a total loss, how likely is it that you can't salvage the engine, tranny and other parts. Why pay for insurance on stuff you can salvage and rebuild. Worse case would be a fire where the whole thing melts into a puddle on I-95 or somewhere. Guess what Fire damage comes under....comprehensive. Load up on comprehensive it's dirt cheap.

Anyway, you can play around with the "Stated Value" to arrive at an amount that pays you back and enables you to salvage some parts and rebuild the same or another car. Or you can just go ahead and pay the extra premium every year "just in case".

I would rather keep that extra premium in my pocket (I do that now) and if something happens I will fix it. I mean we all started with a car that needed a lot of work right. So we get to do it again and we collect enough to cover the expenses and at the same time we save some money every year that "nothing happens".

So consider the odds and make the best decision you can.

Then there is theft to worry about LOL, but that is getting easy to prevent, alarms, battery kill switch, fuel cutoff switch, GPS devices, motion sensors etc. We spend so much money on our cars to make them cool and nice and then we cheap out when it comes to security. If I asked you to spend $500-$1000 and gurantee you the car could not be stolen or if stolen you could find it in 2 hours it would be money well spent right. All that technology does exist, it's just something that we don't want to spend money on. Take the insurance premiums you can save and put it into security.

Well that should get the jucies flowing, got my hard hat and flack jacket on so have at it.

Old cars are a pain in the pocket book-Parts are another problem. Each Insurance Company will give you a pep talk. AAA has a good record with older cars. Check around on the Internet.

The car is worth what someone is willing to pay at a given moment in time. If that guy was willing to pay 20K the car WAS worth $20K at that point in time. Next week if you are desparate to sell and all you can find is a buyer with $10K then the car is worth $10K at that future point in time.

Hard cold lessons in economics. If gas hits $10 / gallon your car might be worth $5.00 total. The car itself has no intrinsic value.... it is only worth what a buyer standing right in front of you is willing to pay at the time you want to sell. Economics 101. Elasticity of Demand....people dont NEED things like 69 Chevelles they want things like 69 Chevelles. Things like food and gasoline are things people need. Even food and gas usage can be cut down but usage of 69 Chevelles can be cut out altogether if necessary hence...no intrinsic value