I rebuilt this 2004r using Chris' manual, just installed into my '64 Chevelle, using BTO's TV made EZ cable kit.

Gauge fluctuates about 20psi so I noted the mid point,
(i.e. fluct. btwn 80-100psi, noted at 90psi)


------------ Min T.V. -------- Max T.V.
1000rpm

Park ...............90...................215
Rev ..............130...................275
Neu ................90..................215
D4 ..................90..................215
D3 ..................90..................215
D2 ................170..................215
D1 ................150..................200


1500rpm

Park .................90.................220
Rev .................130................250-major fluct. 230-270psi
Neu .................90.................215
D4 ...................90.................215
D3 ...................90.................215
D2 .................185.................215
D1 .................160.................200


I'm concerned with D1 and D2, pressures seem off compared
to other's recommended #'s and what's in Chris K's manual.

Tranny shifts through all gears including D4 lockup.

1-2 shift is soft/lazy though it's not slipping.

Any input would be great, thanks

Not an expert by any means, but thought I'd post my numbers just for comparison. Mine is a BTO level 3 2004R.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/69%20Camaro/2004rpressures.jpg

Anyone else have some input?

I'm a little concerned since monitoring the gauge, I notice at times the needle fluctuates
some, and other times very erratic.

The pressures seem to gradually rise as I accelerate and don't
drop during shifts, staying with throttle angle as I understand it should.

I also notice I lose fluid, I believe from the vent tube, during hard acceleration in low gears
and when I got it on the freeway in 4th for a couple miles.
( I could smell the fluid on the freeway, pass side of trans was wet when I got home)

Pressures look OK to me.
Rev and 1 and 2 are higher because of the reverse boost valve in the pressure regulator lineup. Normal.

I would be concerned about a lazy 1-2 shift.

When is it lazy? All throttle positions or just WOT or close?

What servo are you using?
What is the clearance?
What band?
Was the direct drum smooth and flat?
What trans pan do you have on it?
Stock, Deep, etc?
What filter setup?

Did you use any type of valve body kit?, Did you mod the 1-2 accumulator at all?

I can tell you,
you MUST have a good servo. Stock 86-87 GN at a minimum. Superior or Sonnax Billet preferred.
You want to use the Alto red wide band.

My Chevelle got out of 1st so fast with the 200-4R it always had a firm 1-2, but it would suck air on a 2-3 shift and I started with a stock type pan and the "dam" that Chris reocmmends. It didn't work for me. I went to a deep alum pan and it seemed to correct the 2-3 but the directs were already hurt.

Do you have it overfilled? If it foams the fluide from under or overfill it will vent.

My concern on low 1-2 pressures was they weren't high enough, especially with TV cable
fully extended.

By lazy I mean it feels like it's easing into 2nd, but not revving up or slipping, but little drop in rpm when
shifting from 1-2. Even at WOT the shift is not quick/firm.

2-3 shift is like NOW. Quick and firm. No flare at WOT either. 2-3 and 3-4 are not as firm as 2-3 but
are quick, seems just right for those gears.

Parts are as follows:

- 86/87 GN 694 servo assy
- Clearances - Directs .060 / Forward .030
-Wide Alto band
-Drum smooth/flat
-Stock pan/filter with 'Dam'
-About 1/2 qt overfilled
-Dual fed directs, .060 bleed hole in drum
-Shift kit was from Chris
-1-2 accumulator was not blocked, only mod was spring/piston from shift kit

Chris' manual stated plugging the 1-2 accum feed hole when in excess over 400hp,
and when I asked, Chris said 450-500hp+ is more realistic. My motor dynoed at
390hp/430tq so I didn't see it was necessary.

Jake, was there anything you did specific to get a firm 1-2 shift?

What do you have the band clearance set at?

I blocked my accumulator. My shifts were firm but not overly harsh. Converter selection has alot to do with shift firmness.
I have a converter similar to a D5, behind my BBC it would flash to slightly over 3000 rpm

The pressure rise in 1-2 and reverse is controlled by the reverse boost valve, what size is it? .283"?

I would check the band clearance as Jim eluded to. You can tighten the clearance by using washers to shim the pin away from the servo and towards the band or you can use an extendo-pin.

A loose band won't necessarily cause a soft shift in 1-2 though.

It would have to be REAL loose and never completely grabbing.

You could drill the 2nd feed hole larger.

I got the converter from West Coast Converter in Simi Valley, CA - 10" Lock-up, single disc, 2600 stall,
just under 6 bills.

The reverse boost was .296 according to Chris' recalibration kit.

Now when I did the pin adjustment, I had ordered the extendo-pin. The manual said
to install the servo cover with pin/extension and grind tip down till you can almost install
the retaining ring, then grind an additional .060" to get the proper clearance.

Well I had to grind down to the tip if the actual pin and then some before I could 'almost'
install the retaining ring, and then an additional .060" making the extendo-pin unnecessary.
(Ground down to basically a washer)

Though when I did my air checks, the servo locked the band and the output shaft wouldn't budge.

I did enlarge some holes recommended in the manual,
(pg 111, ILL 6C-3) #8 & #14 to 0.140", #18 to 0.125", and #28 to 0.110".
#8 RND4D3
#14 3rd clutch
#18 Orifice (?)
#28 RND4 ORI

Note: Since driving to work (3-4 mi.'s) daily, I'm noticing the upshifts for 1-2 are about
right for the speed, however 2-3 upshift is a little late, and I can't get into 4th till about
55-60mph, light or part throttle. Around town the car never gets into 4th.

Does all this sound like the 1-2 shift needing tuning, or maybe another
problem showing itself during that shift?

Chris mentioned on the TB board there may be a problem with the man lo/reverse boost
circuit or signal oil pipe leak hurting operation.

Is there a way to test/diagnose that circuit?