I'm in the process of starting to remove the drivers side rear quarterpanel.I have not bought the replacement panel yet. It will be a Goodmark piece.Back glass is out,roof seam filler is ground out,rear bumper is off.I've cleaned off all the area's of the spot welds including the area around the trunk filler.I have started to drill out the spot welds up on the roof seam and the welds in the rear window channel,as well as the ones at the rear of the trunk filler.Before I go much further,should I wait until I have the new quarter panel before i take the old one completely off the car, or just keep on going? I'm also going to be replacing the outer wheelhouse.Any opinions from anyone who's allready done this would be appreciated.TIA http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

In most cases I wait until I have the replacement panel before I remove the old.

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'68 SS-396 (still workin' on it)
"Children in the back of the car can cause accidents,
accidents in the back of the car can cause children"
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

TIA,
Since you've already started the process, continue with removal. I recently replaced both quarters on my 70. I have a couple of photos I can send to give you some idea, but they are not close up views.

On the first one I tried drilling out the spot welds at the roof line. Forget this. You need a cutoff tool. I found that cutting the panel at the roofline 1/4 inch below the indent on the quarter, works more smoothly. You can tap this down with a hammer when you fit the new panel. I recommend using the cutoff tool around the wheel opening, just above where the panel welds to the rocker panel, and where rhe panel welds to the trunk extension. Be careful when you get to the area at the door opening. There is a stiffner that will need to be saved there. You can see it once you get the quarter glass out. There are 3 spot welds at the roof drip molding. Be careful not to damage this. I found using a larger drill bit, on the spot welds, and not drilling completely through, removes most of the spot weld.

Save the panel you remove until the new panel is installed. You'll have to reuse the trunk weather strip extension.

I would recommend replacing the trunk floor extensions also. The new panel will most likely need a little trimming at the roof line. I used NOS quarters and had to trim both to fit properly. It's a dirty job, but rewarding.

Ed C.
--------------------------------------------
70SS 396/350 4speed
70 LS6 4speed under resto.
00 C5 6speed

ED, TIA means Thanks in advance http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif Anyway, I also removed both quarters before hand.. It's not a big deal... Just remember when you put it on your better off having the door's and trunk lid on while lining everything up.. Remember too line the panels up a few thousand times BEFORE you make your first weld.. It will save you WORLDS of trouble later http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif (BTDT) Unlike Ed, I cut all the spotwelds out and removed all of the old panel. I did take a sawzall and removed most of the panel so I could work the spotwelds one section at a time, completely removing all the metal. Having the panels off before you order is a good idea, cause you really have no Idea of what you will need until you see what is under there! Good luck with your project!!!!

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X-Ray View of my Chevelle :D (http://www.normieschevelle.com/sideview.jpg)
Getting Closer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/passfull.jpg)

Go ahead and remove it, but don't throw the old one away until the new one is welded in place!

Take a air hammer and cut around the quarter leaving only the areas that are spot welded. This way when you remove the spot welds you wont be wrestling the whole quarter panel just a few smaller pieces of it. The two best best tools to remove spot welds is a spot weld remover bit buy the 3/8 inch bit, next is a air cut off wheel. The cut off wheel grinds away the weld on areas where the bit wont reach like the drip rail.

Dont use regular drill bits use the spot weld remover. In order to drill out the weld you usually go through the other layer of metal behind it and that is not good.

Get your doors and deck lid lined up now before you remove the old quarter. Those will give you idea on how well the new quarter fits, if you didnt have them adjusted before it just takes longer to know if you got the new quarter in place.

I dont care if the part is NOS used or repo it takes some trimming and adjustment to get the desired fit. These cars are thirty some years old and built in a era where tolerances were not heard of, so dont get discourged if at first it dont fit.

Also its a good idea before you weld anything up check all the gaps and lines around the quarter. Check how the rear bumper fits...Eric

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http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I have only one thing to say about this discussion. I would NEVER I mean NEVER cut off a part without having the replacement part sitting beside the car, NEVER.

I have been doing this work for over 28 years and I can tell you, I have did it, I have seen guys do it, where the part comes in and it is DIFFERENT than you thought. I have only did it a few times, learned the hard way, then NEVER did it again. Today at work, I am doing a side hit Honda Accord. I cut off the outer panel on the rocker WAY away from where I know the new part will go past. When I found the inner parts that need replaceing, I STOPPED. When the new parts came in, I THEN cut out the old. And the there were two parts that were different than I planned. One had a brace that the new part did not have. I would have never thought it would come without the brace. If I were to cut the part off, I would have destroyed that brace, thinking the new one would have had it. But I didn't, why? Because I NEVER cut off the parts till the new part is beside the car that's why.

It gets you NOWHERE, just find something else to do till the parts come in.

OK, thanks for letting me vent. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I have been doing body and paint work for 36 years and I agree with MartinSR. NEVER remove an old quarter until you have the new one. Learn from the experiences of us old timers.
Gordon VM
Restoration Motorsports

Wow, I cant believe what I'm reading... I agree with MARTINSR and GORDON. I just purchased a GOODMARK full quarter for my 67 chevelle and was real curious about how high up the quarter goes. I wouldnt dare attempt coming close when cutting out old metal until I had the replacement piece. Their might even come a time where you wouldnt have to use the entire replacement piece. Also, like any mechanic, if you have the right tools, you can be more effecient and do a much better job. A spot weld cutter is a sound "CHEAP" investment, as well as a high speed (electric) cut off tool from SEARS. I made my own panel flanger and I havent found a piece that I was afraid to tackle yet! I have done a few panel replacement jobs as a hobbiest, and have been happy with the results, and have received a few compliments. Made it look like I knew what I'm doing. Take your time, and the wife and kids will be showing off your work as well. Good luck!

Re-reading your question, you want to remove the quarter without havent the replacement on hand. Please dont, sure it might seem like no big deal but in the end youll get bit. Everytime Ive ever removed a welded panel without its replacement next to the car I found myself wishing it was. Learn from the guys that have been there done that and learned from it, never ever remove a welded on panel without its replacement on hand. Cause sooner or later you're going to remove to much.

Thanks for all the great replies! Iguess i'll just have too hold up a couple more weeks until the new panel gets ordered.I'm hoping to pick one up at spring carlisle in two weeks.Thanks again ,you guys are what makes this site the best. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

My mistake. I would know better than to cut away too much material. I'd cut the old panel well below the original weld and leave plenty of material just in case the new panel comes up short.
The mistake I sometimes make when giving advice is assuming that the person I'm dealing with would do the job exactly as I would do, that is, he/she would know to leave plenty of material. Sorry about that. I should have been more specific.
Yes, I would cut away the old panel without a new one on hand because I know to make my cuts well away from the the original seams, leaving plenty of original material. I take it for granted that most other people would do the same, and that's where I screwed up.

[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 04-06-2002).]

This my first chance Ive had today to view my post.I really do appreciate all of your combined expertise.Just so you all know, I've checked out any post or link on this site that has to do with panel replacement just to get a feel for what to expect.Several posts I went on had said that when they used the quarterpanel from Goodmark that the fit was excellent.Because of that I assumed that if I cut out the old piece,making absolutely sure not to take out any other metal except from the old quarter ,that fitting the new piece would not be that big of a deal.That being said,what is the real story of the fit of these "GM TOOLING" Goodmark panels?I'm talking about the one for a 72 coupe with the full sail panel. Is there that much of a problem getting their piece to fit?Again,let me say that I hold a very high opinion of MartinSr,Ed and Randy's knowledge of what they speak.I'm not just jumping into this hacking away. I'm working slow and making sure I'm doing it right the first time. Well thanks again. Don...... http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

Ive installed both NOS and just got done with a pair of Goodmarks on my 70. Ive said it before I dont care if the part is new used or repo some trimming, adjustment is needed. As for the overall quailty of the Goodmark quarters, they're great. Some people said that they were disappointed with them because of the thinner gauge of metal that they were made of but I measured mine and showed hardly any difference. I hung the goodmarks on my car then removed them and fitted a pair of NOS quarters that I have and recieved the same quailty of fit and finish I got with the goodmarks as the NOS pieces. Now that these goodmark full quarters are out and the fit is great on them I dont know why anyone would buy anything less...Eric

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http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

Thanks Eric for your spin on the Goodmark pieces.It takes me awhile to come up with an Extra $500 buck to drop on the velle without the wife going bonkers,so I want to make sure my money is well spent.Hopefully by the end of the summer ,this will all be behind me. Don... http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

What's a good source for a spot weld cutter? Sounds like something that could come in handy.

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Tony Nausieda
1970 SS 396-4??hp
1977 Caprice, no dingle balls or hydraulics
1966 Buick GS 4-sp vert FOR SALE
1965 Le Mans EFI'd 468, 4-sp
1639 total cubic inches :)

They are a wonderful tool, I've purchased several from my local paint supplier. I'd guess that Eastwood will carry them, however I don't have a catalog. Also try a local NAPA, if they don't carry it they could get one.

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'68 SS-396 (still workin' on it)
"Children in the back of the car can cause accidents,
accidents in the back of the car can cause children"
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

This place has them and some other cool stuff too. http://www.wivco.com/

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http://photos.yahoo.com/ochrisl

Sears sells them in their tool catalog.

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Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

www.autobodytoolmart.com (http://www.autobodytoolmart.com) has just about anything you need to do body work. They cater to professional shops. Another place is A & I Supply at 800-260-2647. They don't care who you are. The may be the first choice.

I saw this post and thought i would ad that a friend of mine bought his quarters out of jc whitney for his 69 gto and they fit great. I was surprised. I am planning on Goodmark ind. for mine though. I was surprised about the j.c.'s though

You can order online from Eastwood at www.eastwoodcompany.com (http://www.eastwoodcompany.com)

They do carry spot weld cutters in several price ranges.

One tip I'd like to pass on from my experience doing the same job; When you are replacing the outer wheel house, you'll find that it is welded to the inner quarter panel (the part the quarter window regulator attatches to). When all the welds are drilled out, this panel becomes fee to move, making it hard to get the proper vertical alignment at the door opening. Tack welding a diagonal brace before drilling out any welds keeps this part in the same place and eliminates much head scratching later.
Also, being that the inner and outer wheelhouses are welded together with this panel, it makes getting all of the outer wheelhouse flange removed very difficult. I ended up grinding what was left of the outer wheelhouse flange as flat as possible.
Hope this helps,
Rich