http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=Killercavi&album_id=102786&image_id=12&param=7275

John D.

You might get by with a patch panel. If the rest of the panel is decent, that's the way I'd go.

You should probally be able to get away with using a patch panel, but like Randy said you do need to make sure that the structure of the fender is good and that the area on the inside of the fender where the exterior covers up isn't rusty.

Consider the following: cost of patch panel, cost of lower section of inner brace, (probably pinholed and weak), labor time to cut, fit weld, and finish, labor and materials to strip remainder of fender. Balance that against the cost of a quality goodmark repro (most reports indicate they are good). Also, are you a good welder, and do you have the equipment? There are several contours, style lines, the lower mount location, and the gap to the rocker and door. The door appears to be blistering at lower edge, also a sign of pinhole rust. Good luck, Karl

id just buy a fender and save myself LOTS of aggravation.

If money is tight, (When isn't it?), I would patch it. I have done it on mine on much worse damage with suitable results. But it's the time and patience that is the point here. Sometimes I would just ignore the half done projest for days at a time... and then it's fall, the great motivator.



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Joe G.
ChicagoChevelle68
Any car past 1972 is just simply transportation, really!

in that picture it doesnt look so good you may get decent results on a patch panel but its much easier to just get a new goodmarkindustries one and be done with it.


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Deon Knecht
72 Malibu 350 that has been bored out to 4.251 on a 4" stroke.

<A HREF="http://home.sc.rr.com/deon" TARGET=_blank>
My Website Last updated on 10/28/2002 </A>

I think I am going the new fender route it just is easier.

John D.