: 64ss/283 2 to 4 bbl need manifold/carb rec's
Burbank SS Jun 23rd, 06, 12:09 AM They guy helping me get my 64 SS back on the road is tired of trying to get the 2bbl to work right, and suggest swapping the manifold and carb to a 4bbl. This is going to be strictly a regular driver, my teenage son will be driving it, so I want to keep the drivability good and the speed reasonable, if you know what I'm saying. It has a PG tranny and there is enough to be done without a tranny swap right now, but I need recommendations for a reliable set up so far as manifold and carb go. with as staight an install as possible. Prefer not to have to go the boneyard route.
Engine started life as a 283, but has been rebuild a couple of times so its a little larger. Everything else is stock, no a/c.
Recommendations anyone?
Jim Mac Jun 23rd, 06, 1:00 AM why not just leave the 2 barrel on it? If your not into the mechanical stuff, it can be a pain in the rear. you can always go with a performer or wieand action plus intake, 500 cfm edlebrock or 450 holley, then you get to add a extension for the kickdown for the tranny if I remember right, maybe modify the throttle rod, change valve covers because the new manifold doesnt come with a provision for filling the oil. Im not trying to talk you out of it, but if you havent done this stuff the little things will drive you nuts. Jim
Burbank SS Jun 23rd, 06, 3:40 AM My friend who is urging this is an experienced mechanic by trade. He’s just fed up trying to get a decent rebuilt 2bbl – on the second one and it still isn’t right. The original was just pain worn out. Maybe he is stubborn, but he is pretty insistent that the swap is the best way to go. I just want to get the car drivable again. If I have to get new valve covers, at least its an excuse to get some nice ones!
I actually did a 2 to 4 bbl swap when I was in high school a million years ago with some friends (they were in auto shop, I supplied the car.) It was on my dad’s 67 Olds 88 with a 425. You had to replace the valley pan when you installed the manifold, and it was a real pain. I think it took us three tries to seat it without a water leak. Never downshifted properly after that even after changing the linkage.
Anyway, I’m looking at the options – if my friend gets this started he’s going to have to stick around to finish it. Thanks for the input, and any other suggestions from everyone are appreciated.
Unclepennybags Jun 23rd, 06, 6:59 AM Too bad that you can't find a decent two barrel. I just sold 3 last year.
Anyway, the easy way out will be to get a Performer intake and have the hole bored for the oil fill. If you have an original 1965-1968 Chevy intake it will already have the oil fill hole up front. Once you are set there, find an early qj and go for it. The Performer will allow you to bolt a Holley carb on which will allow you to have all new parts at a fairly low cost. I'd go 600 cfm. The 1850 will work ok but it has a manual choke. The 9834, 80457 will have an electric choke.
Regards,
Mike
Andy69 Jun 23rd, 06, 8:10 AM Back in HS I swapped out the 2 bbl on my El Camino for a Rochester 4-Jet (NOT a Quadrajet - NOT NOT NOT. It's a 4GC - RPDs first 4 bbl, made from 1957 to 1967) and intake from a 325 hp 327. It was a nice little carb - simple and easy to tune - but it had it's limitations. I never was able to completely get rid of a slight off idle bog. I'm guessing it was just too much gas for the stock camshaft. So something like that might be too much carb for the little 283 unless you have a bigger cam. Thinking back I should have left the 2 bbl alone, but it was a good leaning experience anyway.
Andy
BAD415 Jun 23rd, 06, 9:23 AM http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&catref=C6&satitle=Rochester+2+barrel&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&bs=Search&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1&fsoo=1
Here are some carbs for sale. Your mechanic doesn't use the internet does he? :D
John_Muha Jun 23rd, 06, 9:35 AM Have an iron 4 barrel manifold off a 66 that will bolt on there. Don't want much for it. Be gone this weekend but if you are around next weekend might want to look at the set-up on my 64. PM me if interested.
1966_L78 Jun 23rd, 06, 12:45 PM Anyway, the easy way out will be to get a Performer intake and have the hole bored for the oil fill. If you have an original 1965-1968 Chevy intake it will already have the oil fill hole up front.
I think it would be easier (and possibly cheaper) to change the valve covers to a set that has the oil fill provision, rather than find a shop to bore a hole in a new intake (do the newer intakes even provide a place to bore (blank pad)?
I swap to something like a Performer, some aftermarket valvecovers and air cleaner.
IMO, for a basic 'driver" I'd go for an Edelbrock carb, either 500 or 600 cfm...
Nothing wrong with a Holley either, but seems like the basic Edelbrock is a little cheaper to purchase brand new, easier to adjust the "jetting" (metering rods easily accessible, can change both in 15-30 seconds) and less chance of leaks down the road...
JYags Jun 23rd, 06, 2:59 PM My 65/283 has a Performer manifold and 570 cfm 4bbl Holley Street Avenger carb. Everything else is stock incl heads. Engine was rebuilt awhile back before I got the car and a Muncie was swapped in for the PG. Don't think you have to worry to much about a teenage driver with a 283/PG combo. Now for me, I want more power so the 283 will be coming out eventually....
Rad Racer Jun 23rd, 06, 3:34 PM Here's 2 good options IMO
1) Use an early Q-jet intake with the oil fill in front and a spreadbore vacuum secondary Holley 4 barrel.
OR
2) Use a Rochester 4G and matching early square bore intake.
I have personally done both with great results both times. The 4G will be more "correct" looking if that is a consideration for you. But both should run very well once tuned a bit.
pdq67 Jun 23rd, 06, 6:29 PM I've bought a 4 barrel WCFB carb. and intake off a '57 exchange for $25 back then.
That's what you REALLY need OR an earlier Q-Jet intake with the oil filler tube and a cheap aluminum adapter for either a 390 or a 600 cfm Holley 4-barrel..
Years ago, this crap was CHEAP and it was EVERYWHERE!!
pdq67
theclencher Jun 25th, 06, 6:14 AM Sounds like someone wants to make this more difficult and expensive than it needs to be.
The 2 bbl carb on my '59 283 had a frozen throttle shaft, so I dug through my junk pile and found a 2 bbl carb off a 350 Chev. Bolted right on, started right up, never opened up or monkeyed with the carb at all. Cost: $0.
Depending on what you find, the choke might not hook up. Stick a manual choke on there and teach the boy how to use it. Or, if it isn't used in cold weather, forget about it. My '59 is "chokeless" and it starts right up.
The kickdown might not hook up either. So what. Grab the shifter and kick it down manually if you need to go that fast.
That said, those 2 bbl carbs are about the simplest things on earth. Crack that sucka open and look things over. Does the float float? Everything clean? Passages open? Gaskets good? Yes? Then it should work. Maybe something other than the carb is to blame?
pdq67 Jun 25th, 06, 11:52 AM theclenchers right here for sure!!
Only 2-barrel's that are more simpler than these are the front and back one's off the old stock Olds J-2 and early Pontiac trip set up's b/c they don't even have chokes OR idle screws on them.
pdq67
Burbank SS Jun 30th, 06, 12:54 AM I hear ya on that, but no one in the house has ever used a manual choke.
We're going to splurge a bit and go with the Edelbrock 2701 with the 1406 carb with electric choke. Poking around I saw some recommendations to use the insulation gasket and it comes with studs, which I would need anyway, so hopefully when this is done it'll be a good driver with a bit of fun.
Even poped the extra $20 for the Edelbrock valve covers (over the Summit)
Now if that door latch comes off back order I may be in business!
The manifold can be machined for the oil filler, but I figures (1) why give a machine shop $$ and a chance to mess up the manifold (2) why put an ugly old filler tube on or spend more energy getting it to look nice and (3) shiny chrome valve covers look nice.
Thanks to everyone for their advice and input.
theclencher Jun 30th, 06, 4:14 PM Good luck!
Man, I just ain't used to throwing money at things when they don't work.
I would have made a great depression-era mechanic. ;)
pdq67 Jun 30th, 06, 6:47 PM He is actually gaining almost 25hp IF he complete's it and install's true duals!
I say this b/c that's just what the old 220hp/283 "PowerPack" engines produced over the 195hp/283, 2-barrel, single exhaust motors..
Great little motors, IMHO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
pdq67
Burbank SS Jun 30th, 06, 9:47 PM Well my wife bought the car back in '73 for $300, so whatever I spend we'll be money ahead. Duals will have to wait a bit, I got other issues with the car to take care of, like paint and carpet.
I've seen others using this set up so it should work.
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