I'd like to know what guage the sheetmetal is on the new GM quarter panels (the ones that cost $500)for 68-72 El Caminos and the floor pans for these year El Caminos. Is the guage the same as the original metal on the car? Any lower quality than the original metal?

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1970 Chevy El Camino
Green Mist & Silver w/Green Vinyl Top
350ci/300HP 4bbl & Factory Dual Exhaust
Non-SS with Rallies
TH-350 - 2.73 Posi Rear
Factory PS, PB, PW, A/C
My El Camino Home Page - www.dreamelectric.com (http://www.dreamelectric.com)

I thought you decided to get a new body for your car? It looks pretty rusty

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Thomas (AKA Hot66ss)
66 Super Sport
67 Malibu Daily Driver
Aces Member 2380
Team Chevelle member #262
members.aol.com/chvellss (http://members.aol.com/chvellss) <-- Under Temporary Permanent Construction Just Like My 66

Whoa thats a rusty one....
I would recommend buying a new chassis just my opinion.

Guess after 30 years of "daily driving" my Chevelle on the salted roads of NJ, I lucked out with rust on the undercarriage. The original 350's front seal leaked so much oil that nothing underneath rusted! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif
Seriously, Shawn, you've got quite a project there. Any particular time frame? You better learn how to weld real quick! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif If you're going to keep the body, have the entire thing media blasted, inside and out. Then, you'll see where ALL the problems are. Hey, you're young, just take it one step at a time. I don't think I'd try lifting that body just yet! Buy a decent welder and start replacing the structural body pieces first, floors, rockers, floor supports, etc. I did a '57 Chevy 4 door hardtop, which was almost as rusty, floor pans, rockers, trunk floor, lower front fenders. When you'd open the rear doors, they'd sag 2 inches! Took me a couple of years, but I picked up alot of new skills! That was over 20 years ago! Still looks good. New paint is needed again, but we'll do that too. When you're done, you'll have the satisfaction of doing it all yourself. ONE STEP AT A TIME! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

No, it's not for that body, as that one is just too rusty to do anything with. I had my thoughts set on fixing it for a while but there's just too much rust to fix it. It's really a shame but I won't part it out though.

The reason I'm asking is because I found myself a rolling chassis with new GM quarters and I was wondering how they compare to the originals that were on the car and if they'd last as long. I heard somewhere that the new repro sheetmetal is of a thinner gauge than the originals.

<edit>It's a big undertaking, I know, but I feel that it'll be worth it in the long run. The cost might not even out either, but that's alright. <edit>

[This message has been edited by Shawn (edited 08-27-2000).]

The last set of G.M. 1/4's I heard about were bought by one of the big dealers, Ausleys or someone like that, and were N.O.S , in the box, and brought $1500 for Driver's,and $1200 for passenger side. The repo ones are $550-600 from Goodmark, and from what I've personally seen, they have their stuff pretty much right. I drove over to Goodmark and picked up a repo hood Friday for DG, and it is exactly as a stock G.M. hood , weight, thickness, everything.

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1972 Malibu (1 st. car) Project waiting to happen
Team Chevelle # 427
A.C.E.S. # 1282

[This message has been edited by Doug Garland (edited 08-28-2000).]

That's good to hear. Are they foreign repros or made here in the USA?

Goodmark's stamping factory as far as I know is here in the U.S. Their warehouse in in Lawrenceville, Ga. , right off 316 and Hwy 20, on Hurricane Shoals Road. They have parts stacked on shelves from the flood to the ceiling. They are the ones who stock most of the aftermarket companies with their goods. They have had their problems with some parts being stamped wrong,or off just a little, just as everyone does, but their quality normally is excellent.

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1972 Malibu (1 st. car) Project waiting to happen
Team Chevelle # 427
A.C.E.S. # 1282