I just bought a 1967 Chevelle with a 396, 4 speed, 12 bolt posi.

I'm getting quite a bit of wheel hop from a dead stop burn out. I don't want to tear up my "new" car. What can I do to stop this? Do I need to just replace the bushings in the factory rear control arms or do I need something like "traction bars" added?

The rear of the car is raised slightly, but not much.

Thanks for any help and advice.

The first things to try are to get the rear end down, try to get the lower control arms parallel to the ground. Replacing the bushings is probably a good idea all around. If wheel hop is still present you can go various routes with brackets that relocate the rear lower control arm mounting points or installing no-hop bars in with the upper arms.

my car had wheel hop b4 and after i lifted the rear, just a flaw in the stock design of the rear suspension. If you wanna just fix the damn thing w/o fooling around with stuff, just get anti-hop bars. probably like $120 or so,

The first things to try are to get the rear end down, try to get the lower control arms parallel to the ground.

that is still the most confusing thing to me. Every body says you gotta get the LCA's parallel, yet the LCA re-location brackets make them WAY far from parallel

my car had wheel hop b4 and after i lifted the rear, just a flaw in the stock design of the rear suspension. If you wanna just fix the damn thing w/o fooling around with stuff, just get anti-hop bars. probably like $120 or so,



that is still the most confusing thing to me. Every body says you gotta get the LCA's parallel, yet the LCA re-location brackets make them WAY far from parallel

Thanks.

Got a link to the anti-hop bars you are referring to for around $120?

I fixed my wheel hop using new stock rubber bushings, and getting rid of the wagon springs - replaced them with 3/4" lower than stock units from GW. No more hop at all.....

Of course, if you like the way your car looks now, and you don't want to bring the rear end down, No-Hop bars (Lakewood, Edelbrock) are relatively cheap and do the job without major hassle, and you don't have to put the rear in the weeds for them to eliminate wheelhop. They are by far the best bang for the buck. Throwing money at it (i.e., new bushings, adjustable upper control arms, etc.,) by installing stuff that may not solve the problem is not the best use of your hard-earned bucks.

Of course, if you like the way your car looks now, and you don't want to bring the rear end down, No-Hop bars (Lakewood, Edelbrock) are relatively cheap and do the job without major hassle, and you don't have to put the rear in the weeds for them to eliminate wheelhop. They are by far the best bang for the buck. Throwing money at it (i.e., new bushings, adjustable upper control arms, etc.,) by installing stuff that may not solve the problem is not the best use of your hard-earned bucks.

Thanks for the reply. I do like the current stance of my car.

Could you link up the bars you are referring to by chance, please?

sorry, i was alil off

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D20188&N=4294925130+4294908216+4294839061+4294881589+4294 908021+115&autoview=sku

150$

sorry, i was alil off

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D20188&N=4294925130+4294908216+4294839061+4294881589+4294 908021+115&autoview=sku

150$

Sweet, thanks. I presume those are pretty easy to install?

Thanks.

Got a link to the anti-hop bars you are referring to for around $120?

http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/tractionbars.pdf

look on page three I think

I'll second the anti hop bars. I had the worst wheel hop I had ever seen. Slightest wheelspin and would bang like crazy. (69 ElCamino, 454 4spd. 12 bolt 3.73 gears). Edelbrock anti hop bars 100% eliminated my problem. I was amazed. Fairly easy install. I paid around $130 from a local speed shop.

Eric

YOU need the 21609 bars they do a great job

Poly bushings and box the control arms .. cured all of my wheel hop ...

Well, I ordered eight new standard rear control arm bushings from OPGI and they showed up yesterday.

I'm booking time at my local shop that will be installing the new bushings for me. We'll start with that since the bushings need replacement anyway, then see how it responds.

I too get severe wheelhop from the slightest slippage. Very embarrassing and keeps me from being able to light the tires and show off. :mad:

Dave the new bushings won't help - your car looks great, but it is lifted too high in the rear - that is the cause of your wheel hop.

Box in those lower control arms .. not expensive, and it works ..

New bushings won't do a thing to help, your car sits way too high for the stock configuration of the control arms.

Look carefully at this diagram: http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/516/Rear_suspension-Model.jpg (sorry it's hard to read, I need to modify it to fit the showroom format better :clonk: )

What you're experiencing is the 3rd one down... The only way a raised ride height works decent in the rear is with no-hops. (2nd one down)

New bushings won't do a thing to help, your car sits way too high for the stock configuration of the control arms.

Look carefully at this diagram: http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/516/Rear_suspension-Model.jpg (sorry it's hard to read, I need to modify it to fit the showroom format better :clonk: )

What you're experiencing is the 3rd one down... The only way a raised ride height works decent in the rear is with no-hops. (2nd one down)
I wonder why the previous owner did this to the rear end. They must have used different springs because it does not have air shocks on it. I think the stance looks great too, but apparently you cannot have a jacked up rear end and not have wheel hop. :(

How do I accomplish #2 exactly?

Thanks for the info.

How do I accomplish #2 exactly?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D5213&N=700+400065+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D5213&N=700+400065+115&autoview=sku
Thanks!

Are these the ones that end up blocking the differential fill plug, do you know?

Yes they will block access to the fill plug. Make sure to check the lube before installing. You can click on the link for the instructions in the previous link to the catalog

Replaced the rear springs in my Chevelle this last weekend to stock height springs.

Say bye-bye to all my wheel-hop!
http://forums.dkpeppard.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=239
:thumbsup:

David

you need to bring the rear down some.You can do this by replacing your rear springs for stock height or by taking a half coil out of your springs.If you take your coils out and measure them they shouldn't be any longer than 12.5 inches long >Replace the bushings in your control arms and check your pinion angle.Your pinion angle should 1 degree nose down

David

you need to bring the rear down some.You can do this by replacing your rear springs for stock height or by taking a half coil out of your springs.If you take your coils out and measure them they shouldn't be any longer than 12.5 inches long >Replace the bushings in your control arms and check your pinion angle.Your pinion angle should 1 degree nose down
Check my posting right above yours. I've already replaced the springs this last weekend so I have stock height again and my wheel-hop is all gone, baby!! :hurray:

great

............that is still the most confusing thing to me. Every body says you gotta get the LCA's parallel, yet the LCA re-location brackets make them WAY far from parallel

Leveling the lower control arms from a raised stance, LCA relocation brackets and no-hop bars all move the IC (instant center) towards the rear.

There are 2 good options first http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_749138_-1_10083
The same thing is made by different manufactures. and second http://www.umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=17 or http://www.umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=19 these are called lift bars and there are several manufactures.

Even though its problem solved, i'm surprised no one mentioned sticky tires... my car was too high in the rear, but ET Streets cured my wheel hop and gave me traction too!!... i've since lowered it with stock rear springs, i would like to see if regular radials can hold traction now...would be more driveable than the ET's...

a