I hope this topic hasn't been discussed recently, for fear of being redundant, but I could pull up no info on the search feature for this forum...so here goes.

I will soon take my Chevelle in to be re-painted. I noticed the wheel opening moldings to be in pretty good shape, though dull and lusterless. To replace them would cost approx. $150 and I doubt the quality of the replacement materials is very good.

How do I shine or polish my current molding to look brand-new (or at least near-new)? Does this require some type of a chrome abrasive? Are any tools required or is this done solely by hand? Any advice from the pros would be very much appreciated.

Brian "Doc" Willis Benton, LA

Order the polish kit from Eastwood for stainless. But I would remove to do this to be on the safe side. And do it before it goes to the shop so you know it gets painted before they go back on.

I have polished mine by wheel and by hand. I think that by hand was better but, more time consuming. The wheel polisher likes to send things flying. Mine came out great by hand and some rubbing compound. I used 3M extra cut rubbing compound. Good Luck

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SS 327 65 malibu
SF CA
1965 SS
There is Nothing like An SS Made your way
65 SS Chevelle (http://www.quake3hut.com/ruin/car.jpg)

Start by hand ...
A) Use some windex with 000 steel wool, then 0000 steel wool.
B) Then with a dremel or hand drill buff it out with white rouge (jewelers)compound,

(buffing machines are great for heavy objects but can destroy this thin trim work in an instant thats why I suggest using a small 3" wheel on a drill or a smaller wheel on the dremel).

C) Clean with windex and hand polish with mothers chrome polish. You won't be disappointed. If you have deeper scratches get some 800 and wet sand. then you will need to get the stainless compound, white, then mothers.

Always clean excess compound off with windex before applying liquid polish / wax etc..

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Jody Sirmans
71 SS454
ACES

[This message has been edited by JodySirmans (edited 01-17-2001).]

The wheel lip moldings are aluminum aren't they? I know the other chrome trim is stainless but I had to trim my wheel openings
for tire clearence and it was pretty soft stuff.

The Corvex repro moldings for a '69 are clear anodized aluminum and can't be polished without removing the anodizing. I tried- don't work.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575

If your spending the mola on paint why not treat the body to NOS wheel opening moldings.
I found a full set[4] NOS '67 in the blue& white/clear packages for $225 [ya kinda pricey but full '67 sets don't come easy]last year at a swap just to have more spares.
I don't know what year you have but I also still find individual '67 NOS w/o moldings in hemmings for $35-$40 a piece and I buy everyone I find.
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Brett
'67
SS396
clone

doc
von is correct. the mouldings are anodized aluminum. The anodizing coating needs to be removed before you can polish them. Once you remove the anodizing, they polish nicely. Unfortunately it can be a pain to remove the anodizing. Use standard polishing technique once removed.

Several people here have mentioned that oven cleaner will remove it. I have not tried that. I have used an "anodizing remover" that I bought at a swap meet. Its a lot of work. You may look here: http://www.caswellplating.com for more info.

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Rick
72 El Camino (http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html)
TPI350/700r4 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L)
TC#00038
ACES#00140

I used stuff called Blue Lightning Anodize Remover. It takes a few times to get the anodizing off. spray on let sit until it foams and scrub off with a scotch brite pad. Use some steelwool to get any scratching or rough spots out. the smoother it is the better it will polish. Use some buffing compound and buff to a shine. Now you have to keep that aluminum part sealed up and polished or it will oxidize.

Blue Lightning
1-800-501-1562

Was about $20 bucks for a 32oz spray bottle of it. You will need 2 bottles of it probably. took me well over half of bottle to do a set of drip rail moldings

Lots of work, only reason I would do it would be because you could not get a new replacement part.

IMHO, buy a new set

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Thomas (AKA Hot66ss)
66 Super Sport (http://chevelles.com/showroom/myss.jpg) Now striped frame off Project
67 Malibu (http://chevelles.com/showroom/hot66ss4) getting there. Soon to be 396
69 El camino Beater (http://chevelles.com/showroom/hot66sselco) 350 4 speed (Daily Driver)
Aces Member 2380
Team Chevelle member #262

Thanks, guys. As usual, ask a ? at Team Chevelle and get a ton of good info. Brett, I think you're probably right. The moldings are likely aluminum and with all the work involved in removing the anodizing coating, it might make more sense to spring for new moldings, since I'm already investing a few grand for the paint job.
Maybe I'll bring the old used moldings up to the Chevellabration in June and give them to whoever wants them.
Thanks, again.