I'm getting ready to remove my hood on a restored car to replace the motor.

Are there any tips to marking it's position that makes putting it back on easy?

my dad used to use a trick of drilling a tiny unnoticable hole through the hinge and into the inner structure of the hood, on each side, then used the tiny drill bit as a guide pin to get the hinges positioned exactly right. I've found that just using a chalk mark around the perimeter of the hinge onto the hood will work well too. If you arent removing the hinges, just the hood, this should work fine.

Scribe or mark all around the edges of the hinges before you loosen any bolts.
Put a fender cover on the cowl to protect it from in case the hood slides back, an I'd wrap the hood lower corners in rags or something for double protection.

You will need a helper too. One guy can ALMOST do it, but why take the chance.

K

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64 2 Door 400SB/TH350
Chevello Page (http://users.rcn.com/chevello)
"You laugh because I am different. I laugh because you are all the same."
TC Member #1155

No hinge removal, just hood.

All of the above ideas are good to do,but after you mark the locations you should take one bolt out from each side first and replace them with long studs this will prevent the hood from sliding all the way down and damage something when you take the last bolts out.Once you take out the last two bolts all you have to do is lift the hood with the studs off the hinges.
I forgot to mention you should put the studs in the holes closer to the front because if you have them in the back hole they might slip out of the hinge if the hood tilts forward.
Hope this helps.

Dave

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1970 Chevelle SS396 L78 4spd 410 posi astro blue

ALWAYS have a second hand. I tried it by myself and i ended up denting the front corner when it slid forward into the concrete.

Dave, I like the stud idea and will use it.

ALWAYS remove the front bolts first, then the rear. The rear bolts will hold the hood all by them selves. If you remove the rears first you run the risk of bending the hood if it should come down a little (wanting to close).

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

When you say replace with long studs, what exactly do you use? Won't they fall out? Sorry if this is a stupid question!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by emdoller:
When you say replace with long studs, what exactly do you use? Won't they fall out? Sorry if this is a stupid question!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You could buy some threaded rod from the hardware store thats the same size and thread as the hood bolts and cut two pieces somewhat longer than the hood bolts or cut the heads off some long bolts the same size and then remove the front bolts and screw in the studs in place of the front hood bolts then remove the rear bolts,but you should still have help to lift the hood with the studs off the hinges.Also if your planning on putting the hood on top of the car remember to remove the studs first otherwise they will poke through what ever you have between the roof and the hood and scratch the car.
When you get ready to reinstall the hood screw the studs back in the same locations.
Be very careful not to screw the studs into the hood too far at any time because they could bottom out on the outer sheetmetal and dimple it out on the top side so when you put them in don't tighten them.
Hope this helps.

Dave


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1970 Chevelle SS396 L78 4spd 410 posi astro blue(almost finished)
TC#1986
ACES#04878
NICC#427
MY CHEVELLE (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Daves70SS/Daves70SSL78.jpg)

I've removed hundreds of hoods and never needed any studs but most of the time I do get someone to help me
Seems to me that the studs would just make the job more complicted than it is

It's pretty hard to do alone and can be done carefully, but best to wait for help
I use my hood prop on the front and scribe and remove the bolts like MARTINSR said