Should the quartes be welded to the inner wheel well lip?

This is a real "are blonds better than brunetes" question. It depends on taste, but most of all it is not that simple.

In a resoration, welding is it, period. To restore the car back to perfection, it MUST be welded as it was at the factory. But with a few variables that we have to deal with like how well the reproduction parts fit this gets a little tougher. Or if you have a STRSW (Sqeeze Type Resistance Spot Welder) like I do at work. This welder replicates the spot welds done at the factory when your car was built. If you don't have one, you would have to MIG weld them. This hardly replicates the factory originals. You can MIG weld and then make a little dimple in the metal and plastic filler trickery to replicate the factory spot welds.

I feel that if it is a full on restoration, have them STRSWed. But this will require a lot of fitting of the wheel house and the quarter lip. If has to be PERFECT to use the STRSW.

If you don't have access to the STRSW then "faking" it is all you can do.

If this is not a full on restoration and pure authenticity is not your desire, gluing is the only way to go. I feel that gluing is actually better than welding for a few reasons. The panels don't have to fit perfect, in fact you don't want them to fit perfect. Gluing leaves a corrosion fighting seal up over the wheel well where it is likly you CAN NOT get a proper seal once it is all welded together. And gluing leaves a beautiful smooth wheel well void of the lumps and bumps of welding with NO surfacing needed.

By the way, I have seen first hand how well this gluing holds up in an accident. It holds better than the welds, that how.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

MARTINSR,
What type of glue is used? Thanks.

There are too many to list, 3M, Fusor, Wurth, Windser, SEM, and many others make a "Panel adhesive" for doing such things.
I must warn you, they are EXPENSIVE. The adhesive can be thirty to sixty dollars and the guns to use them thirty to $150.00.
If you get one of these guns at the begining of your project you will not be sorry. You can use thier 2K seam sealers, expanding foam, adhesives, plastic repair I use the stuff everyday and believe me they are the only way to go to reproduce what the factory did.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

MARTINSR just keeps impressing me, I learn something new from each of his posts, Thanks and keep it coming -Dan

So MARTINSR would you glue on the entire quater? Or weld and glue?

Thanks
Steve

No Steve, I would not, nor do any adhesive manufactures recommend that you only glue the quarter on. I only glue the wheel opening. But, I also have a STRSW at work so the need for glue else were is not that high. The biggest reason in my opinion to use adhesive else where in a quarter would be to eliminate sparks or heat from welding. If you are doing a resoration the car is likely stripped of upolstery and this is a moot point.

But that being said, if you were to weld the critical areas at each corner of the window, at the rocker, and at the rear body panel and glued the rest, that would be fine.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Thanks

Agree with MARTINSR we use adhesives, usually, on wheel wells only, or Chev truck roof side seam. We are very selective when using in other areas. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS TO THE LETTER!!!!! I am still waiting to see what happens when a 1/4 is hit at 10 degrees below O. For the most part we weld all other panels unless glued by factory (door skins). Karl

Great dialog on adhesives, I while ago I asked about "glueing" a floorpan. Iv'e heard that the adhesives are stronger than welds, and more waterproof. I'm doing the floor next week and am still undecided.
Any input?