: Flair Paint ?and Repainting?
jack Jan 28th, 02, 12:53 AM Guys,
Been reading the debate BC/CC vs Single Stage and how many ways to prep, and got me to thinking about how to approach my problem.
1) What is this Flair paint they put on my car?
They did a real bad job with every imperfection you can think of and it's black...not to forgiving a color!
It was one of those I'll paint any car for xxx.
I was haveing a cash flow problem at the time and the primer-sealer was starting to gather surface rust so I had to do something.
Never again! even for a beater. I'll paint it in the dark and it would look better.
2) How do you tell if it has clear on it?
I doubt it does, as they were trying to get more money out of me to square it away..
3) Does the paint have to come off to bare metal again (I did that before), or can this paint be used as a primer, and build off it??
4) If I can build off this paint what is the best approach to get that glass look now that it has the flair paint on it?
I think I'll go with PPG or Dupont BC/CC as the elements seem to wreck havoc on red so it probally applies to black as well.
I live at the beach and with all the salt air. Killer on cars.
I tried to find the search feature to reference previous posts but couldn't find it. The server problem??
Thanks for your time.
jack
MARTINSR Jan 28th, 02, 6:38 AM Jack, here you go.
1. "Flare" is a Sherwin Williams product. It is actually a good quality polyurethane paint. I assume you had it painted at a "McPaint" shop? Flair is used at a few of them.
2. "McPaint" shops rarely do a baseclear (unless it is a base clear only system) Flair is a single stage system that you could apply clear to. So what they did most likely is mix some urethane clear into the last coat. It didn't so squat, but they can legally tell you they "clear coated" it. Rub it with a rag and polish compound, if black comes off on the rag, theres no clear.
3. If the surface was prepared well, this would be a great base. If you sand it to bare metal in a spot, does it feather out nice?
4.The finish you have when done will largely be the result of what finish you use. If this surface is not smooth, then you will need to block it while wet sanding. This paint will actually provide a great base if it is staying.
If you were able to simply sand and paint this car, without cutting through too much (maybe a little on the body line edges, that sort of thing) you could paint base clear right over the top and have a beautiful car.
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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
jack Jan 28th, 02, 2:45 PM MARTINSR,
Thanks for the excellent response.
1) Now that you mentioned Sherwin Williams, he told me that was all his painter would/could shoot. I wanted PPG or Dupont.
2) It was one of those McPaint shops.
So, it's probally a single stage polyurethane paint..then you apply clear to. O.K.
I think when the shop wanted $300.00 more to square it away, he mentioned clear applied.
And boy is the black dull...but is staying on. I'll do a the polish/rag thing to see how it responds.
3) The surface was pretty good before he applied the paint, a few dings happened during transport, and he never mentioned it, and just shot right over them. Runs, orange peel, painted over tape remnants, etc..
go figure.
The cars in the shop getting the tranny done so I need to try the feathering thing out later.
4) So in essence, just block sand, repair dings, and just paint base/clear over this existing flair paint?
Will there be compatability problems using a PPG or Dupont type paint over flair?
Also, do you know how many coats of each should be applied now that it's at this stage. A little different than coming off just primer and what most previous related questions pertain to?
Someday I'd like to see this car shine!
Thanks again,
jack
MARTINSR Jan 28th, 02, 5:47 PM Jack,
1. There is nothing wrong with S-W. The FLair is the same technology as Dupont Chromaone or PPGs Deltron SS.
2.They probably mixed clear in, not a "real" clear coat over the top.
3. That is a shame, it would have been nice to just sand and paint now. But remember it is "McPaint".
4. That is about it, but you if you are going to have primer spots, you maybe should seal it. You could use a black epoxy sealer from PPG or a Black "valueshade" from DuPont.
There would be no "compatibility" problem, it would simply be that if the paint is broken, you have a possibility of the solvent getting under it and lifting. That same thing would be true with spraying the same paint.
As far as how many coats....jsut foloow the tech sheets. Basicly three base coat and two clear. But some colors are more transparent and need more.
When you get to that post again.
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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
jack Jan 28th, 02, 7:59 PM MARTINSR,
Thanks for the help. It will be some time before I get to the point of re-doing it as the weather is kinda nasty right now.
I'm going to look into that black epoxy sealer from PPG or a Black "valueshade" from DuPont.
The part about, if the paint is broken, you have a possibility of the solvent getting under it and lifting seems like something I need to avoid. I'll have to read up on that before I start.
I'm going to attend a High School Adult nite class and do it, but wanted to gather info before approaching it.
Thanks again.
jack
MARTINSR Jan 28th, 02, 8:08 PM "The part about, if the paint is broken, you have a possibility of the solvent getting under it and lifting seems like something I need to avoid. I'll have to read up on that before I start"
This is mostly a concern when the paint job wasn't prepaired well. If they painted over a surface that wasn't sanded well, the solvent from the new paint job gets under the old.
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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
jack Jan 29th, 02, 12:40 AM MARTINSR,
So no real way to know until you shoot the new paint and see how it plays out??
Based on their crummy paint job??
Well thanks again..
jack
MARTINSR Jan 29th, 02, 6:28 AM NO, as I said, if this paint feathers out well, there shouldn't be a problem. If it looks like it isn't holding on, then it may lift. You can see right at the edge of the paint when you feather it. This edge will have a very distinct breaking point, not a smooth transition as it blends off into the old paint underneath.
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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
jack Jan 29th, 02, 8:44 AM MARTINSR,
It's all new to me, so I blew it when I looked at the whole picture. Thanks for the reference back to the feathering aspect.
Again, thanks for your patience and time.
jack
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