Is this the correct connector? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Is this the correct connector?


rednecks70
Jun 7th, 06, 2:46 PM
I'm replacing the resitance wire to the coil, I need to know if this is the correct connector at the bulk head?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38636&item=8050709612

Thanks!

DG
Jun 7th, 06, 7:15 PM
Yep,
That's it. If you are a hard-core Car Crafter, you can remove one from a parts bulkhead harness (close to the right color) and reuse it. Don't uncrimp the terminal, as that usually destroys it. Just solder on more wire if needed.

I bought my HEI-wire with packard 56 terminal from Year one. I added to to an existing order, so it was not too bad.

rednecks70
Jun 7th, 06, 10:37 PM
Thanks, I think I'm better off just ordering a new one.

Does anyone know if I have to remove the old one from the bulkhead and put the new one in the old spot? Or can I just add a new terminal to an open spot? I'm asking because I'm having trouble removing the old one and I don't want to screw the surrounding ones up!

DG
Jun 8th, 06, 12:44 AM
If you want to reuse the "IGN" fuse you have to swap it out.

I did mine last year when I had the harness out.

You have to clean off the black sealant on the wire side, then use a jewelers screw driver to press the tang back enough to pop the connector out. It's a feel thing as you have to push the connector a bit to take pressure off it to release the tang. Then slide it out.

undee70ss
Jun 8th, 06, 4:21 AM
Does anyone know if I have to remove the old one from the bulkhead and put the new one in the old spot?
Yes you have to remove the old one to get at it.

Or can I just add a new terminal to an open spot? I'm asking because I'm having trouble removing the old one and I don't want to screw the surrounding ones up!
If you use a new spot, you will have to move the wire on the other side too.
To remove just as DG said, use a jewelers screw driver.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/DSC01100_2_.JPG

In the above pic, what you are trying to do is bend the tang on the female terminal so it will clear the "hole" on the male connector. this allows the male connector to be removed from the female


http://www.madelectrical.com/images/flat-b6.jpg

In the above pic, the tang on the female terminal in this pic, holds the terminal into the connector body (firewall bulkhead in your case), bend this tang to remove it from the body.

rednecks70
Jun 8th, 06, 9:09 AM
Actually, I have the bulkhead separated from the fire wall so I'm assuming that the female end is in the firewall and the male end is in the part you see in my pic below.

Then I carefully removed the black gunk from the back where the wire goes in but it's still being very difficult to come out. I can grab the terminal with a pair of needle nose plyers and move it a little but not much. Is there a metal tang on the end that prevents it from backing out?

P.S. Also, there seems to be a greasy build up on the engine side of the harness, do you know what that's from? I'm assuming I should clean that up before reassembly.

Thanks alot guys, I really appreciate the help!!

SuperChevy402
Jun 8th, 06, 9:17 AM
Push down on that hook part with a screwdriver and then out. I replaced mine last year and it wasn't too hard, give it a gentle tug on the wire side to help pull it through.

As far as the grease, I'd just reassemble it after you get the new wire in and then clean it to avoid getting water inside that bulkhead connector.

rednecks70
Jun 8th, 06, 10:37 AM
Push down on that hook part with a screwdriver and then out.

Good thinking! Now that I look at the pic undee posted it appears that the hook is probably digging in and preventing it from backing out. In fact I might try to squeeze it together with my needle nose plyers and pull on the wire from the back. Thanks.

blumont
Jun 8th, 06, 10:42 AM
We were able to buy the right connectors right from an AC Delco distributor right in town. You might want to check there first before ebay.

DG
Jun 8th, 06, 12:58 PM
The word is "gently" apply pressure to the "tang" on the inner side, if you go crazy on it, you risk braking it.

Last time I checked, my local NAPA had Packard 56 terminals.

It's the head light terminals that are harder to find.

DG

rednecks70
Jun 8th, 06, 1:34 PM
The word is "gently" apply pressure to the "tang" on the inner side, if you go crazy on it, you risk braking it.

Last time I checked, my local NAPA had Packard 56 terminals.

It's the head light terminals that are harder to find.

DG

Got it, I'll go easy on it.

I'll also check Napa on my way home, thanks.

vrooom3440
Jun 8th, 06, 1:52 PM
You are on the right track with the needle nose pliers. I squeeze the male terminals on the blade ends. Barring any glue still holding on the back it should come right out.

I find it interesting that the engine side of the connector is "dry" and the light side is "wet". Suggests to me that what you see is not grease at all but perhaps something released from the sealing glue by heat. I would try and make sure all the terminals are clean before you put it back together.

undee70ss
Jun 8th, 06, 2:25 PM
It's the head light terminals that are harder to find.
DG

Americanautowire part# 500188. Packard 59 series terminals, female

http://www.americanautowire.com/products/Connectors.cfm

rednecks70
Jun 8th, 06, 3:53 PM
You are on the right track with the needle nose pliers. I squeeze the male terminals on the blade ends. Barring any glue still holding on the back it should come right out.

I find it interesting that the engine side of the connector is "dry" and the light side is "wet". Suggests to me that what you see is not grease at all but perhaps something released from the sealing glue by heat. I would try and make sure all the terminals are clean before you put it back together.

Thanks for the tip and yes I thought it was odd also that one side was wet and the other dry. I will clean it up real good before reassembly.

DG
Jun 8th, 06, 6:07 PM
Undee,
Yeah,
I bought some from Ron Francis Wire Works with some other hard to find parts.

Thought they should have been on the rack at NAPA. The tag was there, but no termianls. But the owner complains the chains and online vendors are the only places that stock them anymore.