im not even close to being ready for paint but my friend and i are contemplating weather to paint the car with the fenders and hood off, then bolt on, or paint all together. Friend of mine is painting his 56 convertible in pieces and i think its turning out good, but any opinions would be appreciated

Anthony, Both our 65 and 66 were painted in pieces it really makes for a better job as you get paint in all the hooks that you can't otherwise. You just have to be really careful when you are hanging all the other parts.

I cut everything in (painted the back sides, insides jambs) with the car blown apart then hung the doors and fenders, and painted the car as half assembled, then I put the hood and trunk lid and rear valance on, glass... bumpers.. trim etc... I was worried about scratching up the paint if I tried to hang the doors and fenders after painting both inside and out. I had my 17 year old help me replace the hood adn he still managed to scratch the fender but luckily down inside the seam area so touch up was not a problem.

sorry double post?????

My 72 was painted in pieces, the doors, trunk lid ,fenders and hood were painted off the car and the results look great I have even won a best paint award at a car show that had two cars there painted chrome illusion/ irrodesnt s/p? (they usually always seem to win the best paint award). Like what has previously been said with painting a car in pieces you are able to get paint in all areas where as it isn't as easy to do with a car completely assembled.

Brandon

I'm in the process of painting my Elky.I just cut in the top,door jams,and firewall,last week.I hope to put the doors,and fenders on then paint the rest.

Brandon,I'm going to use that sunset orange on my Elky.Then put a black vinyl top,with black strips on it :cool:

graemlins/waving.gif
Rick

use masking tape on the edges of the fenders and doors when hanging them and it may save a few chips or scratches.

Dwayne

I painted the inside of the doors,fenders,and hood with the nose off the car,then reassembled it,and painted the whole car.

If that what the preofessor did then I would follow his advice. His Chevelle's paint is glass like! Hey Rick, I've been welding a storm up on my chev. when are we getting together to work on your new bucket?

Originally posted by Clark68:
If that what the preofessor did then I would follow his advice. His Chevelle's paint is glass like! Hey Rick, I've been welding a storm up on my chev. when are we getting together to work on your new bucket? I've been waiting for you to give me a hollar. I'm still willing to give you a hand. Thanks for the compliment on the car. Trying to get a web page together for the 72 and the 70... time.. it all takes time. How is the 68 coming?

Its moving along. The quarter and new wheel well are in. I'm working on the rear deck panel area piecing a lower rear area where they rust out. Its steadily starting to look like a car agin. I have actually been working out of town on weekends and my best friends wedding is in three weeks so the only time I really have are a couple hours after work through the week. Send me an email and let me know how the 70 is doing and when you would want to clock a few hours. graemlins/beers.gif

I bought my PPG "Cortez Silver" last weekend and was told NOT to paint in pieces due to the metallic flakes not matching if applied at different times. If you are using a non-metallic color, I would assume you could paint the pieces seperately (at diff. times) (base coat/clear coat) ;)

Originally posted by Texas70:
I bought my PPG "Cortez Silver" last weekend and was told NOT to paint in pieces due to the metallic flakes not matching if applied at different times. If you are using a non-metallic color, I would assume you could paint the pieces seperately (at diff. times) (base coat/clear coat) ;) Our car was painted by a professional who used the PPG (Global system) with BC/CC with our car. It is a metallic, Forest Green. It was painted with pieces off the car and painted at different times. The advice you received might be sound (I'll defer to others in the biz) but just thought I'd interject that we had no problems with ours contrary to the advice you received. In my opinion there are real quality advantages to removing pieces and painting from there.

Originally posted by ohhawk:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Texas70:
I bought my PPG "Cortez Silver" last weekend and was told NOT to paint in pieces due to the metallic flakes not matching if applied at different times. If you are using a non-metallic color, I would assume you could paint the pieces seperately (at diff. times) (base coat/clear coat) ;) Our car was painted by a professional who used the PPG (Global system) with BC/CC with our car. It is a metallic, Forest Green. It was painted with pieces off the car and painted at different times. The advice you received might be sound (I'll defer to others in the biz) but just thought I'd interject that we had no problems with ours contrary to the advice you received. In my opinion there are real quality advantages to removing pieces and painting from there. </font>[/QUOTE]I agree totally graemlins/thumbsup.gif That is what I prefer to do. My PPG supplier stated that painting everything at the same time (not necessarilly assembled) was recommended due to temp and humidity changes possibly effecting the properties of the metallic paint if cured in differing conditions. Maybe there will be more input regarding the "metallic" paint application. graemlins/waving.gif

There was a similar post about 5 weeks ago. I recently painted my first car in pieces (69 Chevelle convertible) and am very happy with the results. I will probably never paint another restoration as an assembly, although the comments about color matching metallics are real concerns. I did paint mine all at the same time even though it is a solid red.

The insides of my doors, fenders, trunk, hood are as good as the outside before sanding/buffing. I even decided to sand with 1500 and buff before reassembly to help reduce the possibility of burning the edges of the fender for example while buffing the door. Final glaze will be done assembled. Buffing the hood is much easier on the sawhorses since it is easier to reach and you don't worry about scratching the fenders. Fenders on the other hand are tough not bolted to the car.

A trick to ease reassembly is to drill 1/8" holes through all the hinges and body parts after all alignment is complete - hood hinges require 2 holes. Then use these holes to aid in re-aligning after paint. My hood is still not on the car so we'll see how that goes.