I've read and re-read the basics of panel alignments. I still can't get door high enough and it "seems" to be all the way up on the Hinge/Door adjustment. The door seems to be right height at the striker, but the gap is much too close at the bottom/rear of the door, and I can't simply move the door forward or that will move me way too far away from top/rear of door. It seems to need to "pivot" up at the front. Again, it seems to be all the way up on the door/hinge(s).

Does the hinge at the Cowl have any UP/Down Adjustment? There is no need to loosen them again, if the Cowl/Hinge is only for back and forward adjustment.

I'm paranoid about getting that door stuck behind fender, so I'm trying to be quadruple careful (this time).

Thanks,

By your description it sounds like the door is too low at the back but good everywhere else. If so, you need to move the upper hinge slightly forward. Then, you may have to adjust the fender to make it fit.

In general, adjusting the body panels on older cars is a pain. Unfortunately, the fit of the body panels just isn't that great on the older cars. It took me hours and hours and hours and then more hours to align the front of the last Chevy I assembled.

Peter

Thanks for response.

Just for clarification, it is OK on height at bottom/rear. It is too close on the vertical plane at bottom/rear, and gap at top/rear edge is too large, therefore needs to swing around, basically pivoting at about the striker.

What year car? I know that for the 65 chevelles, the hinges on the cowl do have significant adjustment capability, as does the hinge where it screws to the door. So many adjustments are available that it will take a while to decide which one needs it. Not sure about other years. After you align the door, you will likely have to re-align the fender, a fact of life in panel alignment.

You do have to remember, there are times when the "bestest" fit is the best you get. In other words, instead of making it perfect everywhere but one place that is really bad, you make everywhere "pretty" good. "Robbing Peter to pay Paul" if you will.

Is this car a convertible?

if the line cannot be trued by adjusting hinges,door and cowl. get it close as you can,then get your mig welder out and build up the corner on your door. finnish the weld with normal prep. i know i know that is the redneck way but hey as some have said most of these old cars didnt get the best lines from the factory. but remember these guys had a lot on there mind at the time these were built. 66-72 yep vietnam era. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I feel your pain,, I tried to align my new good mark door for 2 days. After calling them twice I found out that the new door was 3/16 smaller even the tech didn’t know.. Good support! ,,, Three things come to mind that helped me; first is take the door off and clean all surfaces where the hinge bolts in. The second is remove the hinge and see if there is any play if there is rebuild it you cannot align it if there is play. Third remove the striker pin when you setup the door and always setup the back 1/16 higher over time it will settle in. Oh if its a rag top make sure the top is up and locked in tight.

Keep this mantra in mind:
Cowl side gives hinge up and down, fore and aft adjustment. Door side gives in and out. Keep at it until you finally say "that is as good as it gets"

'69, 2 door coupe/sportsroof/hardtop/whatever

If the mantra is correct, that should answer the question. If I can pull it higher on the Cowl/Hinge, I should then be able to raise it on both, then rotate the door backwards on the top, giving me the alignment.

If anyone had an easy way to get to those darn bolts on cowl (fenders on), that would be a help as well.

ADDENDUM: I took the "close enough for government work" approach as I've been hosing with it long enough. It ain't perfect, but it is not hitting on either side, and door shuts good, hitting striker at right price, so I'm not getting hard hit or hit/rise. Of course, now the stripe the painter put on before he had the door properly aligned is now 1/8" out of alignment at the fender. If it ain't one thing, it's two......

Thanks

Thanks,

Flye,
I feel your pain :mad: I just recently purchased two new front fenders to replace those on my 70 Chevelle and I spent some money for good ones from Year One. A wise body man said that spending the extra on the metal will help save on money and time spent on aligning them. Anyways I have had the joy or "labor of love" in attempting to align them. It seems that even big dollar replacements arent as simple as bolt on. I have spent hours on trying for perfection just to face the end resultant of "close enough". I have been lucky in that most of my body lines are pretty good but perfect they'll never be...and that just plain sucks... :mad:

was talking with bubba about your problem and he happened to mention what he does with problems that arise such as yours. "bubba says take a three pound hammer to it"

just joking of course. i've still got a fender that i haven't been able to get right.