After 2 years the chevelle is coming together.
I finally have the big block bolted up between the frame rails and am growing more confident that my project may soon be completed.
I am ready to tackle the body. This will not be a show car. It has old bubbling bondo coming thru above the quarters-not too bad. I have never done any bodywork, but like I stated, this is no show car, just a driver. I have read many old posts and I believe I know what must be done. Please check my sequence:
Clean car well.
Strip paint
repair rust
straighten panel
grind low spots with 36-40 grit
apply filler
block sand smooth
Etch metal ot apply self-etching primer
apply urethane primer/surfacer
block sand with 180
more primer/surfacer
block sand with 220
if all looks good at this point, wet sand with 400.

Questions: Is self etching primer the DP40 epoxy primer I have read about? Looking at the product listings - do you use a catalyst and/or activator with it? Is it a 1 part, 2 part or 3 part?

If the DP40 goes over bare metal, do you then use what brand/part # sanding primer - is this urethane primer?

As for paint can I use acrylic? it seems the cheapest. Do you use reducer and/or hardener with it? What brand/quantity to buy? I have seen "unmodified" gallons of Hawthorne "Rayflex" paint for $29 gallon.

How many coats of each - primers and paint? What quantity do I need to buy?

Please give exact part numbers if you know them.

Which gun to buy?

Thank you all
Ron



[This message has been edited by ron70 (edited 07-14-2001).]

Looks like you have the sequence down pat.. Most Tech Sheets recommend 2-3 coats of each (primer, base, clear) it's up too you on which paints you want too use.. someone told me that the chemical agents in paint are all made by the same company.. As for gun selection you have too buy one for your compressor.. For my little compressor the only gun I found was here www.sharpe1.com (http://www.sharpe1.com) good luck with the paint and body work!

Hey man... Since I JUST finished doing what you're intending to do, I guess I can chime in a little... Your sequence looks good, but don't expect it to turn out to be quite that concise and simple! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
(I put a list of the part numbers at the bottom)
As far as the primers and paint go...
DP48LF is the one I used over the bare metal. I think it's about the same as DP40. It does have a catalyst. I actually got away with 1 quart of DP48LF and the catalyst, which I think together ran me about 60 dollars.

I used the PPG k36 urethene primer on top of that. A gallon worked. it also has a catalyst. As far as brands, stick with 1, like PPG. I didn't believe it until I started work, but it really does simplify things. You can look at their data sheets and see what goes with what and get very specific. It's good to know that what you've got is all compatible.

Use PPG's (or whoever's system) urethane paint. It was costly, (229.00 for the paint and catalyst, 1 gallon) but it came out really beautiful. I used the single stage by the way. Part number - DCC-COLOR

As far as coats... I used 1 coat of epoxy primer, 3 coats of urethane primer, and 3 coats of color.

Here are the parts I bought:

DP48LF - Epoxy primer
DX520 - Pre-primer metal conditioner
K36 - Urethane primer
K201 - Primer Surfacer
DF 700 - PPG body filler
DP402LF - Epoxy primer catalyst
DT 885 - Reducer (yours will vary by temp)
DCC-COLOR - color coat
DX61 - urethane hardener

I may be missing one or two, but that's all I saw when I looked in the garage.

blake

Man,
you guys are the tops. I am always AMAZED by the quick, extremely knowledgable responses.
This is jus what I needed.
Thanks a bunch
Ron

There is a few things I would do differently concerning the primers. First of in my experience as a body man, I have too disagree with the statements about applying the expoy primer over bare metal. In several discussions with various paint reps who work for ppg, all of them have stated never apply the expoy primer over bare metal. The proper first coating should be an acid etching primer ppg #dx1791. Apply one good coat and wait about an hour then apply the expoy primer in one or two coats. Then let the expoy dry for up to a week and lightly sand the expoy just to scuff it, then apply your body fillers as ppg states in there product information guides. After you sand the body filler down any bare metal spots need to be reprimed with the dx1791 then wait a hour and apply your 2k primer like k36 or k38. I highly suggest you dont put expoy primer over bare metal and so do the ppg paint reps, dont listen to the guys behind the counter at your local paint supplier go to the big car shows were ppg has a booth set up and talk to them, they are the ones to listen too. I have had several bad experiences with expoy over bare metal, but once I learned that you need to coat the bare metal with the dx1791 first then the expoy primer my problems went away.