Someone to restore frames? I have access to a place that does powder coating at a reasonable price. Would anyone have the need to drop off their frame and pick it back up ready to put the body back down on? All new suspension bushings, brake and fuel lines, and detailed?? I did some price checking, and figure this can be done for about $1800 with everything included except Tie rod ends and sleeves, and the center link.
Opinions??

I know if I had to option to drop the frame off and have it back ready for the body for around that price I would probably do it. Would save a lot of work, especially when I don't have that much time to work on my project.

Brandon

Plus, there's a lot of people who restore their car by checkbook anyway.

I seriously doubt that you could restore a frame for $1800 and show a decent profit.
Blasting, powdercoating, rebuilding, and assembly is labor intensive, as we all well know.
Not to mention adding in the price of parts...

Someone to restore frames? I have access to a place that does powder coating at a reasonable price. Would anyone have the need to drop off their frame and pick it back up ready to put the body back down on? All new suspension bushings, brake and fuel lines, and detailed?? I did some price checking, and figure this can be done for about $1800 with everything included except Tie rod ends and sleeves, and the center link.
Opinions??
Whats your labor worth??? If you use a 1:1 ration then you would have $3600 into it. 1800/40 hours = $45 per hour. I did a calc on the Wrecks to Riches guy and that is about what he makes for the labor into his cars at auction. Also need to think about liability, if I was doing it as a business I'd get some insurance just in case....

For $1800 I would seriously consider it.

For $1800, I think you would have them ligned up at the door.. Saves a lot of labor & mess.. Not to mention, that not everybody is able to their own suspension work..

Biggest drawback would be the size/weight limitations, thus limiting your market to a local area.

To make a profit, you would need: Established equipment, Cheap labor and source of parts plus an inventory frames, storage area. If you have all of that, go for it.

I know this is off topic but is there aftermarket frames. Like say if someone has a bent frame and need to replace it they can just buy a new one instead of ripping it out of another car?

Mike- No aftermarket frames available. I have the space to do it, I am curious to see if there is a market...
Shipping has been thought of, it would be kind of expensive. Would be better for the person to drop it off and pick it up when it was done.
I am doing an Elky frame right now for my boss, I will post a couple of pics to see what they would look like.

I couldn't pay you that much for finishing a frame. Right now I have ...

~3hrs to disassemble and press out all bushings/ball joints

$100 install new front frame horn

$150-300 to galvanize frame/control arms

$100 Polygraphite front bushings

$80 TRW Rubber rear bushings

$120 TRW Ball Joints

~$200 to body shop to prime/paint everything

$500 in brake components @ wheels, and stainless brake lines

Now this doesn't include new springs/shocks ... but I guess it depends what you consider a "restored" frame. Just a dip, and paint ... I'm way short of $1800. You include new brakes, and I think you're dreaming.

Even without the galvanizing route ... guys down the road will blast and powdercoat a frame (and components) for $1000.

Oh well, honest answer is ... I wouldn't give you $1800 for it, but there's a lot of people out there with deeper pockets than me.

Neal

Oh well, honest answer is ... I wouldn't give you $1800 for it, but there's a lot of people out there with deeper pockets than me.

Neal

Neal- Not everyone has the ability to do mechanical work, either. Figure in your labor to disassemble and assemble the front and rear suspension, and cleaning and detailing items such as the steering gear, tags, e-brake cables...you're at ~$1500 with no mention of fuel lines or e-brake cables. What about sandblasting the frame and components clean? Is that included with your galvanizing? Alot of the posts I saw related to that, the frame had to be clean before they would dip it.
Not ripping you, just debating is all....Like I said, not everyone is mechanically inclined.

I couldn't pay you that much for finishing a frame. Right now I have ...

~3hrs to disassemble and press out all bushings/ball joints

$100 install new front frame horn

$150-300 to galvanize frame/control arms

$100 Polygraphite front bushings

$80 TRW Rubber rear bushings

$120 TRW Ball Joints

~$200 to body shop to prime/paint everything

$500 in brake components @ wheels, and stainless brake lines

Now this doesn't include new springs/shocks ... but I guess it depends what you consider a "restored" frame. Just a dip, and paint ... I'm way short of $1800. You include new brakes, and I think you're dreaming.

Even without the galvanizing route ... guys down the road will blast and powdercoat a frame (and components) for $1000.

Oh well, honest answer is ... I wouldn't give you $1800 for it, but there's a lot of people out there with deeper pockets than me.

Neal
$200 to prime and paint is very cheap.
I would spring for the $1800, if there were no shipping.

Somebody is making aftermarket frames. I can't remember where or what magazine I saw them in, but somebody is doing it. It was cross braced and supported much better than a stock flimsy frame.

Yeah, that’s where it gets tricky … there’s a lot going on in a rolling chassis. The shear idea of restoring a frame, is pretty basic (a frame). The idea of restoring a rolling chassis … there’s a whole ‘nother can of worms. You’ve got steering, and brakes, and the rear-end. Most of you would envy how in-expensive I have put these things together … but I would venture I’ll be ~$3000 alone in my “rolling chassis” to decent specs, definitely not concours!

I thought I mentioned my time to disassemble .. but I was ~3hrs. Body shop lifted the body, then gave me the rolling chassis. I disassembled, labeled/tagged all components (nuts/bolts), and pressed out bushings in that time. Now granted I have a pretty rust-free car … which means less body work, but also means that most all my nuts/bolts come right out. Body shop I think had $100 into replacing a front frame horn, and I had ~1.5hrs into grafting in under the spring pocket.

I haven’t posted the name of the galvanizer yet, ‘cause we’re still working out what it’s going to require. I spoke with 2 other people at the place yesterday (it’s in Muncie, IN) that have done their own car frames with good results. Supervisor there wasn’t concerned with sandblasting … said they’re going to leave everything in caustic over the weekend, and see what’s left. If there is still paint, they will have to double-dip in the galvanize … basically the 850* will burn the paint off in the first dip. Again, I haven’t posted much info about this place because I’m waiting ‘til they finish mine, then I’ll ask if they ever want to do it again Seems like a really good place though.

Yeah, the body shop is estimating ~$200 to paint the frame and all the components. Pretty basic though … Valspar VP50 over the galvanize, then chassis black. Right now, we’re not planning any high build primer/fillers, but we’ll see … wasn’t any noticeable pitting on anything, and if that’s the case should look pretty decent as is. Again it’s not a show car, but this should look decent.

Anyhow … there’s everything out on the table. I’m what $400-600, and 6hrs (apart/assemble) into a “restored” frame … and many times that into a “restored” rolling chassis. Powdercoaters in my area want $800-1000 to blast, and coat a frame chassis black. So $1800 is too expensive for a frame … and too cheap for anything rolling. But it does give you an idea of what kind of prices I’ve found in the current market.

Now … if you were to get serious about this venture, I would suggest using extreme caution into a fixed price on 40yr old vehicles. Mine looked real good, and needed to replace a front frame horn, and am still considering whether I put it on a frame rack. But absolutely every single piece on these old cars need their own evaluation and quote … and only experience will help you in that (though I think I’ve seen where you’ve been around the block on these cars), but believe me customers won’t come if you’re over-priced … and aren’t happy if you’re over-budget!

Oh yeah, I was going to mention too … if you’re trying to get into the “not mechanically inclined” crowd, I think you’re going to lose unless you want to do the whole car. Those are the one’s dropping the vehicle off, and telling one shop to just do it.

Hey, have fun … and hopefully by next week I’ll have success at the galvanizer, who have 3 shops in Indiana and Ohio.
Neal

Here's a thought; galvanizing of a frame can be had for $300 or less if you are lucky enough to have a place around to do it. That price would usually include caustic dip to clean, acid dip to de-rust and "tin" and the actual galvanizing dip. Ifyou do a search on "galvanizing" you will find hundreds of posts on the subject. Alot of people here have had it done in the past 24 months, me included. Now, if you have a source for powder coating at a good price, and you are willing to put new bushings and lines on (maybe priced extra for poly or stainless lines, etc.) and reassemble the spindle assy's., plus quote extra to detail the rear (not powder coat it) for that price, it's a good deal. There's no reason to flat rate everything, like upgraded shocks or new springs. Also welding and repair would need to be extra.

You could probably do ok. Where you need to be careful is with things like the e-brake cables, dist. blocks, disk brake conversions, etc.etc. Quote them seperatly if they need to be replaced. But taking in a rolling chassis, stripping it down, galvanizing and coating or painting and re-assembling it - I think that's a reasonable price. You won't get rich doing it. But the extra's should make you whole.

If you're set up for it with the right clips, bolts, quick delivery on the bushings, front end parts (to keepyour inventory costs low) and doing it production style, you could problably do it for that. I know guys that used to be the frame swap guys on these cars in dealer body shops in the 70's. They said they had less than 40 hours to swap out a frame, remount the body and have the car back in the shop for sheetmetal work. Doing this stuff in production mode in a shop that's set up for it is pretty quick and easy. Nothing that hard about it. And, yes, there are folks who have the talent and money but not the time or desire to do it themselves. Question is, are they close enough to deliver and pick up their frames (say, within 3 or 4 hours drive)?

Why not do a few and see how it goes. Your only extra investment would be a few tools like a press and few hand tools; assuminng you already have the basic setup I.E. comprssor, air tools, jacks and stands etc.. Right Stuff is not far from you, work a deal with them to supply you with specialty items at a good price until you can wholesale buy your own supply. Tell them what you're trying to do and see if they'll support your start-up effort a little.