Hi there guy's I'm about to run my motor hopefully this weekend and was reading the post on new cams going bad...Well back in December of 2006 I installed a comp cam in my 350.. And put the red syrup(comp cam lube) on it as supplied by the local speed shop and also used the small little pouch that came wiith the cam...anyway's I have the arp assembly lube could I use a brush and apply it to the lobes of the cam via the liifter bores in the block?Also is the arp stuff good enough? thank you very much for any help ..

Hi there guy's I'm about to run my motor hopefully this weekend and was reading the post on new cams going bad...Well back in December of 2006 I installed a comp cam in my 350.. And put the red syrup(comp cam lube) on it as supplied by the local speed shop and also used the small little pouch that came wiith the cam...anyway's I have the arp assembly lube could I use a brush and apply it to the lobes of the cam via the liifter bores in the block?Also is the arp stuff good enough? thank you very much for any help ..

Take all the ass'y lubes supplied by most of the cam manufacturer's and "toss" them. We have a "bucket" here they end up inside. We just got a batch of ARP's Moly lube in (again) and have been supplying it to other shops. It's excellent for breaking in cams. We've done about 12/14 flat-tappet cams in the last 6/8 weeks and have no issues (again). We've not lost a single lobe for as long back as I can recall. The hydraulic lifter units get "25-50 Race" weight and the solids get straight "40 Race".

The part number for the "moly" is 100-9905 for the 1 pint container. You should use it "sparingly", there's no need to "load" the cam up with it, the lobes can only hold a thin coating. Place a slight amount on the bases of the lifters also, before they "see" the spring pressures. The small plastic tubes they supply can also be used.

To date we've changed over to the "Pennzoil" brand for the "multi-weight", as the 25-50 still has all the additives in place. For the straight weight we use
"Valvoline-Race". We've pretty much "stayed the course" over the years with the "Valvoline" brand due to a close "link" we had years ago a to Funny-Car operation. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I've posted this numerous times up here before, but ALL the standard
"old-school" rules do still apply. Reduced spring pressures, especially on BB's with the high rocker ratios and keeping RPM's up! Just recently, about 2 years back, we started testing with a single spring on the BB's that's let us continue through the test period on the dyno without stopping to change them. If it becomes an issue it shows right up during the "pulls". Once the unit is tested it gets the springs changed. This procedure further frees up the dyno room time-wise. As I said, so far we have experienced no cam failures and no test issues with the "singles".

thank you very much knowing you've used it really helps me..As I wasn't sure if not to use it or not .. I also bought the pint size container as i plan on using arp bolts thru this engine and future motors...Also thank you for the tip on not aplying to much on the cam as i would have most likley caked it on..