Need some help from those who understand how to finish out a bc/cc paint job. Just finished putting on the clear today and everything has gone pretty well to this point. This is my first paint job and have a ton of time invested. Yes I have some orange-peel and a small sag or two to deal with. That is basically my question. How should I proceed from here? I know that color sanding and buffing is next but am not sure as to what grit sandpaper to use and buffing techniques are puzzling also. How long do you let the clear dry before starting any of this? I used PPG's Omni line of products for a budget job (if there is such a thing as budget in paint and body work $$$$$).

Be VERRRY careful!
The guy who painted my car gave me a break on the cost if I did the color sanding. I am by no means an expert but will pass along what I learned.
Wait a couple days before you sand.
I used a block to hold the paper, use plenty of water. I used a bucket with water in it so I could keep the paper and surface really wet.
Start with 1000 grit and sand LIGHTLY. You will see a white milky film which is the clear. Sand back and forth, dont use a circular motion and stay away from edges! In fact, done sand edges, You'll sand right thru to the basecoat http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif
After you sand a little, use a rag to wipe area dry and look at the surface, then continue if its not smooth. Remember you want to take the minimum off. Colorsanding is very time consuming.
As for buffing, First used a light cutting (foam pad) on a variable speed angle buffer. Used a light cutting liquid and went over it lightly. Then changed to a polishing pad and a polishing compound for final. Remember keep away from edges!!
Take your time. I would suggest you get some prices from local autobody shops for what they would charge to sand and buff for you. It dont take much to mess it up big time.

Good luck
Chuck http://home1.gte.net/res096qi/71Elky.htm

Well here we go. go get a rubber sanding block. I beleive it's 3in by 6in. Some 1200grit wet or dry sanding paper. A bucket of clean water and a sponge. And a scotchbrite pad. Cut the scotchbrite pad so that it fits the bottom of the sanding block evenly. Get a peice of sanding paper and put on the bottom and around the sides of the block as to hold the block and the scotch pad together. The reason for the scotch pad is it will hold some water and soften the touch of the paper on that new paint. Get the paper wet and start to sand in a straight pattern. About 18 inch strokes. Keep the paper wet. Use the sponge for more water if necessary. If you keep a keen EYE on what your sanding you will see the bumps and uneven areas smooth out. If you can't see them, stop and dry the area off and it will show the imperfections. Don't apply alot of force on the paint. Take your time, this is a time consuming process. And for a beginner, stay at least 1 inch away from the corners or edges. This will lessen the chances on going through the paint. The buffer will take care of the rest. I wait at least 1 week depending on the weather to start sanding the color out. To buff I use 3M perfect III and then a glaze. I buff everything with a foam pad. Wool pads sling **** everywhere, and will leave deep swirls. Go check out the cars I've painted at my sight. It's still new with more pics coming soon. www.angelfire.com/ky2/mycars (http://www.angelfire.com/ky2/mycars) Good luck RandyB..

I would say use 1500 or 200 grit.1000 is to coarse for a beginner.the finer stuff will cut a little slower but will buff up effortlessly.I have spent a better part of my life sanding and buffing! dont use a hard block,use a flexible rubber squeegy or your palm.use tape on sharp edges so you dont sand/buff thru.run the buffer slow till you get the hang of it.use plenty of compound,and when sanding i use a hose to keep a fresh supply of water trickling over your work.one little piece of dirt under your paper is a scratch that may not come out!

Thanks guys for the advice and help. Paint and body work has always been one of those areas I avoided at all costs. But there comes a time when if you want something bad enough, and don't have the money to do otherwise, you just have to dive in. I now know why a paint job is so darn expensive. It's the labor!!! Not to mention the cost of paint and supplies. Anyway, I took everybodies advice and am progressing very cautiously. Looks good so far. Just hope my arm doesn't wear out.

If your arm wears out,buy a special interface pad for your DA sander and some 1500 disks and dry sand it.Thats what most pro shops do these days.

Being your 1st time, I'd stick with the wet sanding. The DA works quick, but that can be costly if you go too far....which is easy!
Use the little rubber sqeegees with the paper wrapped around it. Lots of water, 1200.
Nobody mentioned how far to go, so I will. When you think you have the surface evenly sanded, take the bare sgeegee and wipe off all of the water. What you want is a uniform hazey-like surface. Uniform is the key word here. Dirt, runs and bugs will be instantly spotted. Orange peel will show it's low spots in the surface. You have to 'get' to those low spots to get a slick surface. Remember, you only want to remove enough paint (material) to smooth the surface evenly and no more! Also, take some masking tape and tape off all edges, ridges before sanding.

I meant use the DA ONLY if his arm wears out http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif