I posted this in the suspension section, but wanted to get ya'lls input also.


I had brand new poly bushings installed into my lower rear control arms and top ears of my fresh 12-bolt about 8 months ago (before I discovered from the board that poly was a no-no in the rear).

The rear is still on jack stands and has never been installed. I am planning to use this rear in my ’69.

Can I leave the poly in the lower control arms and put new rubber bushings in the upper arms and in the ears without getting a lot of the bind that full poly bushings will give me?

The rear has boxed arms and a sway bar if that matters any.

I hate to have to press out the lower bushings if I don’t really, really need to.

You should run the Wolfe sphericals in the top. That's what I'm planning on: http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=187

You should run the Wolfe sphericals in the top. That's what I'm planning on: http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=187


Is that $119 a piece?

Wow! :clonk:

Hmmm...well, I am sure others with more knowledge than I will chime in, but I have lakewood no-hop bars on my '66. They have no bushings at all on the pumpkin and are hard mounted to it.

Are the upper rear control arms stock or aftermarket? The reason I ask is I think some of the flex in the converging four-link is designed into the flexibility of the stamped steel arms.

On my car I have Currie's lower control arms with the Johnny Joint at the frame and stock uppers with rubber bushings. The whole system feels very stable and works well.

As to what works best, perhaps someone who has tried both ways will be able to illuminate on the pros and cons.

No, 119 for the set.

Get rid of the poly bushings in the axle ears, they will be OK in the lower arms as those arms do not have to articulate nearly as much as the uppers do. I second the Wolfe bushings, they work great.

How long will the Wolfe bushings last on the street before they get loose and begin rattling and buzzing? Are they a metal-on-metal spherical joint?

Rich, they are metal-on-metal, but the bearing is replaceable for about $12/ea for QA1 teflon-lined rod-ends which last longer and make less noise.

I finally had the chance to drive my car with ALL solid metal-on-metal bushings/bearings everywhere on the chassis and poly body-mounts, and honestly, I really like it. It wasn't loud or really rough like I was expecting. It actually rides smoother than it did with poly in the rear, it just feels like the tires are over-inflated... gives you a great feel for the road :thumbsup: I can't speak from my own experience for the wear of them yet though...

I've got poly on my lower arms as well - you'll be fine that way. It's not ideal to have the poly up on top, too, but if you're not in a hurry you'll be fine driving around with all poly. It's probably easier to change it now, though, while it's still out of the car. I'd go rubber if you're just going to use it as a street car. If you're road racing, then there's a whole host of options to consider.

Ryan