painting bare metal [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: painting bare metal


Brian Cole
Sep 6th, 98, 1:12 PM
After sand blasting sheet metal what is the best way to clean and spray the first coat of primer (self etching). I know I have to get the metal clean after blasting with a degreaser. Once I degrease and wash it off with water won't the metal suface rust right away?? how do you avoid this?? thanks in advance

shannon
Sep 6th, 98, 3:56 PM
Brian

There are a couple of different ways you can go w/ your bare metal.......But...DO NOT wash it w/ water, unless you are using a liquid metal treatment solution, which BTW is not necessary for freshly blasted metal.
Either way, you wanna coat the metal IMMEDIATELY after blasting. Clean the metal w/ a wax and grease remover.
Next you can choose one of two different methods to coat the metal. You can coat it w/ a self-etching primer followed by a primer surfacer, or you can coat it w/ an epoxy primer followed by a primer surfacer. Either way is fine and acceptable. If the metal is straight and is not going to need any bodywork, I would choose the self-etching primer followed by the surfacer. The self-etching primers us an acid based catalyst which actually bite into the metal neutralizing any microscopic (invisible) corrosion in the process.
If you will need to do much bodywork, I would suggest coating w/ an epoxy primer then do the bodywork on top of the epoxy then applying surfacer. The epoxy will provide corrosion protection underneath the filler if you go this route.
Some paint companies do not recommend using a self etching primer under the epoxy primers....PPG for example has several different self etching primers.....only one can be used under their DP epoxies.
Your best bet is to find out what paint brands are readily available in your area....then go there for info. on use of their certain products and their guidelines. Most of the paint cos. even have websites you can check out along w/ technical assistance phone numbers...USE THEM.

Hope this helps and Good Luck w/ your project.
Shannon

MAXX2
Nov 10th, 00, 7:21 PM
Hi Guys And Gals;

This seems to be the perfect answer/question.

We have faithfully followed the PPG instructions since having our '69 Elke beadblasted.

Now we have rented a "Corner" of a local body shop here in Las Vegas for $200.00 a month (2-3 months)to complete our "Frame Off Resto".

We have a "Question"!

After using the body wash, etching primer, and 2&1/2 coats of PPG Epoxy Primer, we are having the body shop apply 2 additional coats of the PPG Epoxy Primer.

I have sanded between each and every coat (Last sanding was 45 degree cross hatching pattern-each way, using 400). We have been advised by a former "Expert" in the field that the 2 coats can be applied approx. 1 hour apart (FLASH)? Is this correct?????

What imperfections will show up and how do we "FILL" them? Guide Coat, Light Epoxy Primer? Some type of "Filler"?

We have spent $$$Bucks (Within Reason), plus a ton of our time on this project and don't want to "MESS" it up now.

Any advise will be greatly appreciated. We know the "BASICS" are covered in this site, however, we would hope for the "SPECIAL ADVICE" that only our "Team Members" can provide.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2




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MARTINSR
Nov 10th, 00, 8:23 PM
One thing you should remember guys, when you wash the metal with "conditioner" that leaves a phosphate coating, you should not use acid etch primer. The acid in the primer will attack the acid phosphate coating on the surface on the metal and you LOSE adheshion.
If you are going to use etching primer (which I recommend) don't use a metal "conditioner", the etching primer will do that anyway.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

RT
Nov 11th, 00, 6:42 PM
Shannon, isn't DP primer a self etching primer?
Thanks,
Rich

dmc9
Nov 12th, 00, 4:04 PM
Lvmaxx
I am not a pro but have learned from many mistakes. First I recommend that you find a good paint store with a knowledgeable tech to advise you on their products. I use either self etch primer or epoxy primer after all heavy body work is complete. Then I apply a heavy build urethane primer, then use 3M guide coat (black powdery substance). Rub lightly over uro, then block sand in a cross hatch pattern (this may take several applications of uro). USC makes a light filler that can be applied over uro if you find a large low spot. Then use DP or approriate sealer before applying top coat. Seems to me you are using too much epoxy and that is very hard to sand and will not fill. Good Luck!

MAXX2
Nov 15th, 00, 4:30 PM
Hi Guys And Gals;

We purchase all of our PPG paints, supplies, etc. from D'Angelos here in Las Vegas. When I went to get an additional gallon of K200 (4-1-1) this morning they told me that it is no longer available. They now have K36 (5-1-1)which is a grey color instead of a yellow color. They recommended only 1 more heavy coat (as stated by members in this site). This actually will assist me in the next sanding as it will help act as a guide coat.

By the way, we are very happy that we rented a corner of a body shop here in Las Vegas, as it makes it much easier to work on our '69 elke. The owner has decided to rent additional space(s) to others who may decide/enjoy working on their own projects.

See you later, got to go.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2


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MAXX2
Nov 20th, 00, 6:27 AM
Hi Guys And Gals;

We have followed all of the advice from the tech sections as members have posted here.

We have another question that is probably simple, however, we haven't seen the answer.

As noted earlier, we rented a corner of a local body shop here in Las Vegas (Best thing we have done yet). This gave us the time to sand, cut, etc. on the body (Only the body/fenders/doors, etc. went to the body shop).

When we bring it home and mount it to the frame, we will need to fit everthing (PERFECT OF COURSE).

After fitting everything, there will undoubtly be areas that we will need to touch up on the body. Can we use a filler after roughing up the epoxy primer? What type of paint can we use on these touch up areas. We really don't want to spray paint again in our garage (That's why we rented a corner of a body shop. We live in a new gated community of single family homes, and one of the neighbors was going to turn us in to the EPA).

Any and all info greatly appreciated.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2


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