Is there a downside,other than amount of effort to stripping a whole car with a DA?

Dust, dust and more dust. Buy a quantity of 80 grit papers for the DA as well. Don't forget a dust mask. And, let's see...HHmmm...Beer! lot's of that!
Remember to not heat up the panels and create some possible warpage. If you come across a panel that has alot of build up on it, don't be afraid to chemically strip it. It will save you alot of labor. That's why they sell so much of it!

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Triple Black 69 SS 396

I'm not an expert by ANY stretch of the imagination, however, my car is currently in pieces and various pieces are in the body shop right now. I have been stripping the pieces chemically and then taking them to the body shop under the owners' direction. This guy is VERY experienced and anal about restoring cars and is a Chevelle fan as well. According to him, (and I didn't understand this at first,) he will NEVER strip any factory sheetmetal by sanding it. He says there is a factory finish to the steel from how it is pressed from the rolls of flat stock. This gets removed when you sand it. He is not referring to the factory EDP primer but the actual steel itself. I didn't understand what he meant until I strated stripping my body parts. When I got to the rewar window area, I found a spot that had received rust repair earlier and had been heavily surface sanded. There was a distinct difference in the sheen of the steel. It was almost "polished" if you will.Guess what , the paint and filler almost fell off this area with the stripper. NOW I understand his point! The chemical stripper is cleaner and easier as well. (Although QUITE smelly!) Anyway, this is my experience for what it's worth. Again, I'm not an expert but what I'm learning does seem to make sense! Good luck!

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72 SS coupe clone & 68 ragtop, 69 ragtop. www.NoNecksChevelle.com (http://www.NoNecksChevelle.com)