I have swapped cams numerous times in my life, and never had one go flat...

BUT, better to be safe than sorry...

I picked up a bottle of EOS, and today picked up 2 gallons of Shell Rotella T 15W-40...

Got my new Voodoo cam, almost ready... But a few questions...

I was readign the sticky by Scott (SWHeaton?) and mainly had questions about these two statements...
1)
VERY IMPORTANT to adj valves with intake off. This is because when you adj the valves at least half the moly cam lube is wiped off the lobes while doing the adj and it MUST be re-applied post valve adj or you are asking for trouble. I use my finger/s and any other smooth item i can find to reach through the slots on the block to re-apply the moly lube to the lobes you can get to,this is very imprtant to do and is almost always overlooked.

Okay, but by just rubbing more lube on the lobes, I can't get anymore under the lifter... Logically, there really isn't a way to do this without unadjusting the valves...

Anyone know the order to adjusting the valves? I recall there is a way to adjust all the valves using only one rotation of the crank (4 places, 90 degrees apart)... Just figured it would be easier to know this, rather than only adjusting 2 rockers each 90-degrees...

*After motor is assembly is complete prelube motor with correct tool that seals off dist shaft for proper prelube of lifters,etc. Remember to rotate motor while doing pre-lube.

Wouldn't it be better to run the tool BEFORE putting the intake on? Actually before "reapplying" the lube in the step above, then AFTER adjusting the valves, Pre-lubing, and setting the engine at TDC #1 (or just before TDC 12-15 degrees advanced for ease of iginition timing), THEN reapply lube to lobes (with fingers, etc), and finally bolt-on the intake. So once the intake is on and distributor are in you can fire it without ANY rotation by hand necessary... Maybe I'll use that degree wheel to set the TDC right at 15 degrees advanced...

I have set a standard points distributor by hooking a light (Its been a while) to the coil (?) and turning the distributor by hand until the light comes on (motor NOT running, but set where I wanted it to fired, advance of TDC)...

I am not sure this will work with an HEI... Anyone know what to do?


Would a shot of ether/starting fluid be a no-no? Just to insure instantaneous firing...

Thanks...

Yes, you cant get as much cam lube inbetween the lifters lobes as when you initially install the cam but just by re-applying as some cam lube to the lobes you can access through the block post valve adj when some lube had been scuffed/forced off durring the valve adj process is a good thing to do.

This is not foolprof but my intent was to simply re-lube the cam as best as possible through the openings in the block lifter valley post valve adj for a safer startup . And yes maybe it would be just as good or even a better idea to prelube before reapplication of cam lube because you need to rotate the motor while doing it which can wipe the lube off again,good catch & suggestion.

But overall i feel doing this along with many other tips i put in my cam install proceeedures all combined will hopefully eliminate or at least reduce the chances of a new cam going flat. I was just trying to help my fellow T/C members avoid a bad cam if at all possible because i was seeing so may bad cam stories.

I would try to preofill the carb/s though the ventubes if possible before fireup because ether can be dangerous.

I had seen a friend of mine trying to start a wet flooded BBC with ether after he washed his motor at the carwash had srayed too much ether into the carb/motor that went into the crankcase loading it up with fumes. Then when one of the plugs finally fired all fumes in the crankcase it blew the valvecover off the motor with a big bang breaking all the bolt heads off & dented the hood big time along with a huge flame not to mention the 2-3 qts of oil that blew out of the returns etc at the same time too. Man my ears were ringing for a couple hrs after that so maybe i would stay from ether if at all possible. But the motor/carb never started on fire which was amazing considering the the big flame i saw durring the explosion.

It was a good thing nobody was hanging over the v/cover at the time of they would have likely been seriously hurt of killed if hit with the v/cover. Someone was watching over us for sure,we were lucky dudes that day and only had a big oily mess to clean up,a v/cover and bolts to replace,along with the dent in the hood to be repaired so be carfull.

Scott

Thanks Scott...

Pretty good info there...

Any advice/tips on setting the initial timing with an HEI ignition?

Tony,just get the dist rotor pointing to #1 terminal on the dist cap when cly #1 is on the comp/firing stroke .

Then as soon as you get it fired up crank in plenty of inital timing so its not running too retartded for cam breaking which would cause the motor to run hotter.

As you know you cant set the initial timing untill the cam is broken in because you need to idle the motor down to set the timing.

But you dont need to be exacting on the initial timing for cam breakin,after you get the motor fired up just advance the timing to the pooint where the motor starts to slow down or run rough due to over advancing it ,then back off/retard the the timing just to the point the motor picks back up running/sounding smooth & lively at the 2200-2500 rpms for cam breakin and that timing setting is good enough for the cam breakin. You can set the inital timng (16-18 deg btdc for perf cam)after the cam breakin is done when you need to idle it down to do so.

By the way thats a nice looking ride you have there ,i bet that BBC sounds real sweet when the secondaries are wide open on the 2x 4's and its twisting up though the higher rpms,music to my ears for sure. Brings me back to the days my father was selling cars and brought home a 63 impalla 409/409hp with 2x4's to use as a family car when fuel was 19cents a gal and i was 8 yrs old,boy i loved it when he would get into it. My borther had a 59 impalla convertable with 348 tripower & 3 on the tree for his 1st car that went pretty good for those days,those cars would be worth big buck these days but who knew back then.

Scott

1966 L78 - Are you pulling the inner valve springs for cam breakin, assumming you are running dual springs?

I just installed a VooDoo hydraulic flat tappet in a BBC and the machinist that did my heads said it was a very good idea along with others here @ TC.

It would be another 1 1/2 hours wrenching plus borrowing tools to reinstall springs after cam breakin. I've never done it on previous installs so I'm wondering if it is really necessary?

Any thoughts?

Scott - I don't believe its mentioned in the procedure? I'll read again to be sure.

1966 L78 - Are you pulling the inner valve springs for cam breakin, assumming you are running dual springs?

I just installed a VooDoo hydraulic flat tappet in a BBC and the machinist that did my heads said it was a very good idea along with others here @ TC.

It would be another 1 1/2 hours wrenching plus borrowing tools to reinstall springs after cam breakin. I've never done it on previous installs so I'm wondering if it is really necessary?

Any thoughts?

Scott - I don't believe its mentioned in the procedure? I'll read again to be sure.


I think I either have singles or single with a dampner... Not sure if that necessary... I'll have to check, the heads are box stock Edelbrock Performer... As I mentioned before, I have never had a cam go flat (that I installed), and I installed the current on about 5 years ago... I KNOW I didn't use EOS or anything other than what Edelbrock supplied with their cam, and not sure on oil, but probably regular Valvoline or Castrol (can't recall what I used back then)... I just figure a little extra effort can't hurt... Not sure if I want to get into pulling inner springs, etc...

I'm also going to use Rotella and a bottle of EOS but have to order more cam lube. I used what Lunati sent when installing the cam so don't have enough left for the massage after the initial valve adjustment. They could have sent twice the amount. I'm thinking it is important not to mix flavors.

I never worried about cam break-ins in the pass. I just followed the manufactures break-in procedures and changed the oil & filter a couple of times. NO Problems!

Great info here. I am getting ready to fire up my new 454 and was wondering where you guys bought your EOS? I went to three different auto parts stores, I get the deer in the headlights look. Thanks guys.

Great info here. I am getting ready to fire up my new 454 and was wondering where you guys bought your EOS? I went to three different auto parts stores, I get the deer in the headlights look. Thanks guys.

GM dealerships will have it in their parts dept.

Thanks Bubba. I just didn't want to pay out the wazoo for it. Oh well, got to have it.

Thanks Bubba. I just didn't want to pay out the wazoo for it. Oh well, got to have it.

I forget (thats really bad, because its only been a few weeks), but my local dealer only charged me like $8 for the 16 oz bottle (I was expecting like $16+)... I guess I should go back and buy a few more when I get the chance...

$8.00 is not bad. I would expect $30.00 from the dealer. Not to offend anyone who works at a dealer, but the do have a mark up.

$8.00 is not bad. I would expect $30.00 from the dealer. Not to offend anyone who works at a dealer, but the do have a mark up.
While you are there, buy 2 or 3 so you can out one in at the next few oil changes............can't hurt

Tony,i do make a quick refference somewhere in my cam install info that its mainly directed towards stock to moderately hot flat tappet hyd/solid cams but nothing wild with high spring pressures & dual springs. I have not read completely through it in a while but i think i did refference dual springs somewhere but i am not 100% sure untill i get a chance to read it again.

But i would think if your running what would be considered high to very high spring pressure with a hot high rpm cam & dual springs in an 8-10 second ground pounder i would opt to remove one of the springs for the breakin period just to be safe.

But even though this info i put together is direct towards fairly mild street perf cams 70% of the T/C memebers are using most of the info is still applicable for correctly lubing & breaking in much hotter cams too.

Scott

Don't forget to pick up a bucket of "crossed fingers" and a tube of Kharma. God knows, I've built a boat load of motors in my earlier years but only a few in the last 10. Of those few, two have yet to be fired and one was a stock rebuild for my truck. Previously, I built crazy motors with too much spring pressure, too much lift, too many beers and did everyting wrong, including cranking it forever, never breaking in the cam properly and assembling the motors with straight 30W. NEVER a flat cam. Bottom line?? Take your chances. Parts quality is a crapshoot and if a cam is going to go flat, there isn't a thing you can do to make it not.

My $.02

Cam

I just broke in a new set of lifters on the existing cam in my 396 last week. used both the EOS and the pre lube. Just lubed up the cam right through the lifter valley because I never removed the cam.

I was a little nervous since the car hasnt ran since last summer but the breakin went great. Now comes a nice test drive tomorrow if the weather cooperates. Thats another nerve racking expierence in itself since its been so long for me driving the car. But there were no leaks or noises so I have no doubt the drive will turn out just fine.

Just broke in a new 454 that I built, new crank, cam ect....I used comp cams Lube...the small amount Lunati gave me...filled it up with 30 valvoline and gm eos or eo5 cant remember....I wouldn't start for 2 days....2 full days of cranking with no fire. Turns out for some reason my HEI went bad and soon as I put a new one in it fired right up..no cam failure. Lucky ?? that gm eo5 really that good ?? I was for sure it was gonna go flat or maybe this is the secret formula.

30 valvoline
comp cams lube
lunati lube
gm eos

I don't understand about "reapplying" the cam lube. I don't care how much you put on, isn't it basically wiped off the first time you crank the motor. This sounds a bit like "More's Law" to me(If some is good then more is better) or using more laundry detergent to get the clothes "cleaner". If the lifter wiped the lube off when you adjusted the valves, then it will do the same on the first revolution when you turn the key to break the cam in. Maybe the bottle should read like the shampoo..."Slather, rinse, repeat"

On the subject though, I'm helping a friend start a new 455 today and I had him get a bottle of EOS. He ended up sending his wife to pick it up and she came back with a bottle of "Wynn's" something or other. The dealership said they were out of EOS and this was the same thing. The main ingredient is zinc so do you think I'll be safe? I've only ever used the moly lube that came with the cam so I'm not sweating it too much but all the stories I read here about wiping out cam lobes has me a bit nervous.

ive always wondered how that STP "honey oil" woul be if you poured it right over the cam lobes before you put the intake on. Its seems like it would do the trick...
I think all cam failures are either mechanicl interferences or running that high friction area DRY for too long of time. I spin the cam once and all the lube is wiped off. I just apply it after Im all done setting lash. Then i dont even worry about it again. EVER. If it fires right up, then oil is being thrown on the lobes are youre golden. I think my last cam failure was a result of running the oil level to low (low enough that when i accelerated the oil pressure went to 0)

I just broke in a new set of lifters on the existing cam in my 396 last week. used both the EOS and the pre lube. Just lubed up the cam right through the lifter valley because I never removed the cam.

I was a little nervous since the car hasnt ran since last summer but the breakin went great. Now comes a nice test drive tomorrow if the weather cooperates. Thats another nerve racking expierence in itself since its been so long for me driving the car. But there were no leaks or noises so I have no doubt the drive will turn out just fine.

Since this post has returned to the top again. I am happy to say that since I posted that message above that my cam was broken in last week without any problems. However, I changed the oil after the breakin and still found a trace of straight coolant inside the oil filter when I emptied it after removal. It wasnt enough to get concerned just yet as it was just enough to fill the palm of your hand. But Ill be keeping an eye on this.

I can say that it is always best to get the engine to fire and stay running as soon as possible instead of cranking it and cranking it. The cam I have has been broken in twice, The first time I broke in this cam it would not start after several attempts. Fixed a no spark issue and it started and the break in went fine that time too. This recent break in was because I replaced all the lifters when I swapped a set of freshly rebuilt heads.