Here is the deal I got my motor in and started my cam break in. Fired up no problem. I was pleased I finely got something right. Thought I was doing really well. Got eight minutes into the run up everything going great. Then all Hell broke loose I hear a loud pop and fire explodes on the driver side. Got the car shut down as fast as I could. Put the fire out. My heart was racing like you wouldn't belive. What had happened my oil pressure line had gave away. Now I should have know better using that nylon line that the gauge kit came with but I hadn't had any problem with it before. I used Rotella 15-40 with a can of GM EOS and molly lube on the cam. The motor never got above 210*. At 2500 RPM my oil pressure was 55 to 60 psi. Is that two much for a new motor? I wouldn't think so. Or maybe I didn't get the line swedged in good enough. Either way I am deffently going to use a copper line from now on. Also when it was running my headers got a little red, is that from too much advance timming or to lean of a mixture. I do know I got one heck of a mess to clean up and have to replace two lead wires.
Any suggestions on what else I need to do. Thanks in advance

Since you shut it right down after 10 mins and were using Shell rotella T oil with EOS you can just fix the oil psi line and refire it to complete the cam breakin.

But if you running an aftermarket perf cam you need to run approx 16-18 deg btdc intal timing or it will be too retarded which will make the motor run hot . This is something many people seem to not understand they need to do with non stock aftermarket perf cams with longer duration/overlap because the cam mfg's dont tell you.

But since you cant idle down the motor to set the initial timing untill the cam is broken in make sure to crank in enough timing for the cam breakin so it does not get too hot. Just advance it untill it starts to run crappy and then turn in back unbtill it smoothes out and you should be fine.

Move the car outside iff possible and place 1 or better yet 2 20inch box fans cranked up on HI in front of the grill on boxes so you can blow a lot of cool air through the radiator for the cam breakin period.

Then change the oil & filter while the motor os still hot after the cam breakin is done to remove any debirs form the cam breakin.

Scott

On the oil line, I used steel brake line (3/16" I think) and ran that from the block back and up to the rear of the cylinder head. I then connected the nylon line at this point. I would not run copper because it will eventually fracture from engine vibration.

Thanks Scott you have been real helpful getting me through my cam break in. If you were closer to my area I think I owe you a couple rounds of beer or something. Also thanks to the rest of you guys.

-The good news is all my plugs looked good I was able to clean and make my motor look somewhat presentable. Ony the conduit around my wiring needs replaced and 2 plug wires need replaced. Not bad considering the flames and all the oil everywhere. My header is a little discolored, any advice on restoring headman ceramic headers?
-Do you guys think plyable copper line (I think thats what its called) It has the copper line with a spring like metal wraped around it, do you think that would crack?
-Have any of you guys ever had something like this happen?
-The break line trick just might work, I never thought of doing something like that I'll check the parts store tomorrow.
Does anyone else have any good advice about what type of line to use.

Good to hear it was nothing major, Im sure your engine will be all right....I have never heard of copper tubing fracturing from vibration, as long as it has room to move. They sell it for that purpose. I have had copper tubing on my oil pressure gauge for 8 years now without a crack or leak of any sort. John

Red headers is too little advance, or in other words, retarded too much.

Yes, I had the same exact thing happen many many years ago. Ever since, I only use braided line for oil pressure lines.
Mike

I put a steel braided line for my oil pressure gauge, it looks good and will last forever. I don't know if breaking in the engine with ceramic coated headers was a good idea. I know that voids the warranty, because engine temps of break in are much higher than broken in engine temps, the coated headers seem to warp or can even crack, the discoloring is from the oil right?

Yea my passenger side header look good the drivers side got a little discolored from the buring oil. I used those headers because thats all I had and they were on the engine before the rebuild. For future advice you guys are saying that I should just use regular plain headers that I don't care about messing up. Probably not a bad idea.
Thanks