GRN69CHV
May 5th, 06, 8:16 PM
Have my '69 ready for a little primer touch up and then BC/CC. Everything looks good and feels good to the touch - except the passenger 1/4 panel. Hard to describe. It almost feels like it has too much of a curve below the belt line. The 1/4 panel had a crease (maybe 1/8" deep) along the bottum that I filled with M - M prior to epoxy and had a low area about 10 o'clock position to the wheelwell that I filled with Rage Ext after epoxy. Appled 2K, blocked, then skim'd with Metal Glaze. I am thinking the fill may need to go from 12 o'clock position of the wheelwell to within a couple inches of the end of the 1/4 to make it correct - this area on a '69 is rather flat below the belt line.
Probably could get away with it, but it will haunt me. Now the question. Do I take it back to at least the Rage Ext and epoxy? Or can I seal what is already done with epoxy, and continue to skim with either the Rage or the Metal Glaze. I am inclined to just hit the 1/4 with a DA and start over to get it right. ??????????
sevt_chevelle
May 6th, 06, 4:16 PM
How big of an area are we talking?
You've got epoxy then Rage, then a 2K primer and metal glaze correct?
Without seeing and feeling its hard to say. I would say take some nice sharp new sand paper and knock it down like 120grit or 80 grit. Sanding with a coarse grit llike 80 or 120 will help level out the spots of Rage, metal glaze and epoxy.
I would make sure its cut level before I start adding more glaze to build any low spots.
If you are feeling highs and lows that 80/120 will cut down those highs so you only deal with the lows.
Once the panel is straight, metal glaze it. If you treat the metal glaze as a PRIMER your work will turn out perfect!
I use metal glaze to fill my 80 grit and fill very minor low spots, I dont think of metal glaze as a filler but a primer.
Apply thin coats of glaze past your low spots and let your sanding feather it out into the panel.
If you try and fill JUST the low spot by the time you have it sanded you will have sanded throu the edges, more then likely creating low spots surrounding the filler, insense making your dent larger.
But if you apply that glaze past your dent and let the sand paper feather it you wont create those low spots.
Personally I guide coat the crap out of it with 3M's dry guide powder and block it down with 80 grit. Then Id skim coat the whole area and then some with a thin coat of glaze. Block that down with 180 grit.
I think if you sealed with epoxy and started over you would be making a paint sandwich, not good.
And before id hit it with a da, I sure would block with 80 grit and see what come up.
I might just throw it out there but you might think about investing in some flex sanders. I LOVE my set. There are a couple guys at work they seem to borrow my sanders all the time. They wont admit that they work slicker then snot, but sure use the crap out of 'em
Ive got the 3 foot block and it will knock that 1/4 down flat in no time. But as nice general alround block I like the 21" block.
GRN69CHV
May 6th, 06, 7:31 PM
I think you hit it correct. Went down and looked at it again after I read your response. I felt it was noce and flat after I worked the area with 80 grit on my long board, but then I went to 180 & 220 and probably took it down too far. I am going to hit the area with the long board again, give it a skmi coat of Rage to resurface, then use the glaze to fill the scratches. Then give it some 2K and paint. THanks.