It's about as big around as a ball point pen tip. I'm too far along, as I'm ready for my skim coat of "bondo" over the duraglass. I have almost all of the high spots beat down to where they are flat, or slightly concave. I really don't want to break out the welder for such a little hole and warp everything again and have to grind out the filler. Can I just bondo over it with no worries? Thanks.

Weld it up.

Originally posted by DG:
Weld it up. It's not even as big around as a grain of rice.
and it will require me to do all the duraglassing over. I think I'm gonna fill over it.

Well you can fix the hole now,or fix it later when the car is painted and done.

:confused: :confused:

id weld it up that way you wont have to fix it later down the road.

Now is not the time to take a short cut.Do it right,you will be glad you did. graemlins/clonk.gif

My Aunt tells me this car was rear-ended about 15 years ago. I didn't know that until it became mine and I began this project. Inside the rear quarters (in the trunk)on both sides are "Bondo Worms". I know they used a dent puller and filled over the holes (and most of the fender for that matter). If that process held up for over 15 years without a problem, why not now? Especially with all the advancements in the filler products. I won't argue that welding the hole is the optimum fix. But I will suggest that there are other options that may be more practical given the situation and the quality of the products available. ;)

Check out sevt_chevelle's profile info. He's a professional body repairman. If he says weld it, then weld it. He will not steer you wrong. The same goes for MARTINSR.

On my car, someone replaced the right rear quarter panel skin. The body man who did it tack welded it about every two inches and then covered it with filler. It probably lasted about fifteen years also, but when I got the car, the filler had started cracking along the weld seam. It also started rusting in a couple of places because it had not been welded solid. I could easily repair the rust and cover the seam with new filler but I'm not going to, even though it would probably be good for another fifteen years. I'm going to cut the metal out around the rust, weld in new material, and weld the entire seam. THEN I'll use filler to smooth it out and finish it.

Ive got to ask HOW much time HOWmuch money do you have and will have wrapped up in this car??

Why basically throw that ALL out the window just to save you no more then a 1-2hr worth of work???
The amount of heat that would be generated by welding that small hole shut would be next to none. You would only need to remove a small portion of filler to weld the hole. Blending in the new filler with old would be a cake walk.

Just think if 5yrs from now that hole rears its ugly head now causing a rust bubble, HOW much time and money do you think it will cost you then to fix it?

Body fillers havent really advanced all that much. Sure they sand and spread easier but the technology is basically the same. They ALL STILL contain talc even those "rust and water proof" :rolleyes: fillers, and last I knew talc was still an absorbent

It,s your car so do what you want to but welding would be the best fix.

Kinda makes one wonder how that could happen, maybe it's a blessing that you find out why that sail panel is so thin at that spot. After all you did not rare back in a fit of rage and smash the pointy end of the hammer into the sail panel on purpose did you? Most likely your aim was off and you tapped it in the wrong place, so if the metal there was solid it should have bounced off and left a small dent.

This depends on how hard you hit it, but I am thinking there may be some rust in that area where you hit it and now you have the pin hole. Better to be safe than sorry later like everyone is saying, but do what makes you happy.

I had a spot on my '39 where I knew I needed to clean it better with a wire wheel to get the old rust out of the crooks and crannies. I though it was good enough and went to paint anyway, about 3 years later I ended up with a paint bubble in that spot. Fixed it, but everytime I look at it, the paint doesn't match exactly and I know it's there. No one else would probably notice it, but I know it's there as a testament to my "rush to paint".
You will be much happier with yourself in the long run if you take the time to fix it right even though it is a pain in the $%#@^.

Good Luck whatever you decide.

Try this to control the welding. When filling in little holes (ie. trim holes), I insert the head of a very small steel pop rivet to use as filler metal. You can concetrate your heat at the center of the rivet and let your weld flow out to the sheetmetal. Grind the welded area flush and finish off. Use the shortest rivet you can get. Even hit it with a file to shorten it further.