ive sandblasted the trunk pan and am going to use a little bondo. im using ppg metal etching primer and dp90. do i prime first, then bondo, then reprime? or does the bondo go directly over the metal? if the latter is prefered is the metal etching primer even nessasary? thanks Dave

hey sheet, just got off the phone with ppg tech support on the same issue basically. I am taking my 67 down to bare metal then they suggested priming with etching primer (light coat) then use their dp50lf with catalyst to prime over then bondo then use their k36 or k38 primer over the car again the wet sand.never knew so much primer needed. (oh yeah this is expensive 3 primers????) hope this helps

Jamie Clayton
Tyler Texas
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sheetmetal:
ive sandblasted the trunk pan and am going to use a little bondo. im using ppg metal etching primer and dp90. do i prime first, then bondo, then reprime? or does the bondo go directly over the metal? if the latter is prefered is the metal etching primer even nessasary? thanks Dave<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sheetmetal there are two ways to do it. The first and most used method is bondo on bare metal. the second is bondo over expoy primer. The big advantage of bondo over primer is that you have a protective layer of paint on the metal, sealing the metal off from the bondo.

Whether you choose mud first then prime or prime then mud each has its place, and in this case I see no problem with the prime first then mud.

If you choose primer first, yes by all means use that etch primer first then expoy. First expoy doesnt have the corrosion fighting qualities like an etch has. AN expoy just lays on top of the metal just kinda sealing it, but the etch contains an acid that bites into the metal providing protection in the molcular state. Once you have the etch applied apply two coats of the expoy and let it set and cure for about a day or more. Expoy needs the temps to be around 60-65 in order to cure, if not it will not cure and stay gummy forever. With the expoy cured scuff sand it lightly, I use 180-220 grit then apply your bondo. Once you have your mud sanded down you need to scuff sand the entire area with like a red scrotchbrite and shoot one coat of the expoy on the bondo and bare metal spots then apply your primer surfacer like K36 or 38. Sand then topcoat with your paint choice

------------------
1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

do i really need the k36 in the trunk? i was thinking of just using the spatter paint over the dp90 thanks guys Dave

sheetmetal I am using the por-15 in my trunk then going to sand it then top coat with the spatter paint(esp since I have the por 15 left over from frame). ??What ever happened to the one coat primers?? I used an acme brand about 12 years ago (one of the first ones with a hardner. The paint job still looks great last time I saw it, but dont see any acme stuff anymore.

jc67
tyler texas <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sheetmetal:
do i really need the k36 in the trunk? i was thinking of just using the spatter paint over the dp90 thanks guys Dave<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Acme was a label of Sherwin Williams. ALL Acme products were EXACTLY the same as Sherwin and Martin Senour (available at NAPA auto parts) but with a different label. If you know the name or number of the Acme I could give you the name and number of the S-W or M-S.

------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Shetmetal, no you dont really need the k36 in the trunk. If you finish sand your bondo with something around 320 you should be able to get by with just a couple good coats of expoy. The K36 is meant to fill minor impertions on the surface, but this is a trunk you dont need that perfect level surface. Just make sure you remove the deep sand scratches in the mud and surrounding areas and then topcoat with dplf90(expoy)