Hey motorheads, what kind of RPM can I get outta a stock HEI? I need 6000RPM's. Can I upgrade an HEI to get to 6000? I am on a budget. Give me some ideas for a budget ignition for my 454. It a 10 to 1 motor with Forged cranks, rods and pistons. RPM Air gap intake, 750 DP, 049 mild ported heads with SS 2.06/1.72 valves, 60204 VooDoo cam, 3000RPM stall and 373 gears. Thanks

I have seen a few guys turn that out of a stock HEI with no problems. However, they did have a spring advance kit installed.
The factory set up is pretty weak.

I would recomend installing one of those MSD Control modules instead of the stock one.
It has more dwell in the spark timing that stock, along with other MSD tricks.

Mine has worked out with other springs.

Revved it over 7500 lots of times. Stock module, MSd6, 7, 10, stock coil, accell, msd, propower.

Lots of setups. never made a difference.

been running stock gm hei for years with no trouble shift at 6400 got to a point where it was fouling plugs so i use the crain high 6 box and that took care of the fouling unless it floods.the crane box does away with the module all together

The stock HEI will work just fine to your 6000 RPM goal. You don't need any fancy external boxes or any other hop ups. Just use a good brass terminal cap and you will be fine. Also make sure to supply the full 12-volts to the unit.

Good Luck :D

"the crane box does away with the module all together"

An MSD-6 can also run without the module, just pull the module out and with up the pickup coil directly to the mag pickup wires on the MSD. Thats the twisted pair that would go to a crank trigger if you had one. Just try it with the polarity going both ways and pick the one that gives you a touch more advance at idle (reverse polarity will give a funky response curve as rpm's increase).
I had an MSD 6 that wouldnt run right at all using the white wire connected to the module, after ditching the module it ran great.
Most aftermarket ignition stuff is mostly hype, I especially hate thise super expensive aftermarket distribuitors that are really not going to give you one bit better performance than a good working HEI.

On most of my cars I just take a stock HEI, dis-assemble it, clean it up, re-assemble it with additional shims to take up the usual shaft end-play, install an aftermarket curve kit and SOMETIMES hook up an MSD to the pickup coil. DONE!
A trick ignition can prevent you from loosing power due to inadequate spark, but it cant really make MORE power like most ads claim.
I've had the stock HEI module and coil (with a curve kit) up to about 7300 before without any problems on a hot 355 before. Thats thing ran fine with a $30 ignition, no billet distributor or other BS needed.

The stock HEI module is pretty darn good for 1974 electronics, and I've even put them in a couple of dodges (a 383 and a 440) with GREAT results compared to the chrysler system.(I didnt have to keep a spare ignition box and ballast resistor in the glove box after that).

The stock HEI will work just fine to your 6000 RPM goal. You don't need any fancy external boxes or any other hop ups. Just use a good brass terminal cap and you will be fine. Also make sure to supply the full 12-volts to the unit.

Very true. I'd add that you don't want "12-volts", you want full battery voltage. With the alternator charging, you'll have 13+ at the power input terminal.

A low-resistance carbon button under the coil is also a good idea.

Very true. I'd add that you don't want "12-volts", you want full battery voltage. With the alternator charging, you'll have 13+ at the power input terminal.

A low-resistance carbon button under the coil is also a good idea.


That is what I meant! Full voltage NOT running through the resistor wire. It should actually be about 12.5 with the engine NOT running and 14.2 volts with the engine in IDLE. :D

Thanks for the info guys. Keep up the good work and keep the hammer down.