Hey Guys-

I have a 72 Chevelle SS and right now it has the cowl induction hood and it's only connected to a vacuum port. With this, you really have to get on the gas to even start making it open the slightest bit. I know there is a lot of stuff to hook up to make it factory functional. Does anyone know of good instructions or how to set this up the right way? I know I'll have to probably buy another whole kit to make it work properly. Thanks!

WHICH PORT? That's the key! It needs to be connected to MANIFOLD vacuum (manifold vacuum is anything below the throttle plates of the carb), not ported (or venturi) vacuum. Also, there is supposed to be a one way check valve inline with the vacuum hose going to the CI hood vacuum pod. This check valve allowes vacuum to flow very freely on only one direction, and very, very slowly in the other direction. As a result, when properly connected, the outer door should open quickly under hard acceleration (or a power condition) and as vacuum returns, the door should close slowly. Without this check valve, the door will be opening and closing quickly. If your car has an auto tranny, the door doesn't work as well as it does with a 4sp because if you accelerate hard enough, the tranny will shift when it wants to rather than when you want it to such as with a 4sp.

Thanks. I have a 4-speed. I'll see how else I can hook it up. I have an aftermarket aluminum intake on my motor and I'm not sure if it has any vacuum ports on it. I do have the one way valve in a line going to the vacuum pod. I'll see what I can do. If you have any more tips or suggestions let me know. Thanks!

The one way check valve for the CI hood vac pod is readily available from the aftermarket sources.
Your carb should have a manifold vacuum source somewhere down low on the carb. With the engine just idling, there should be a port that has a strong vacuum.
During idle, a ported or venturi vacuum source will have almost zero vacuum.

Don't forget, there are two doors in the proper setup. There is an electric powered door on the inside of the hood that is actuated by an electronic solenoid. The solenoid is actuated by a switch on the accelerator pedal shaft. It too has to open to allow fresh air into the air cleaner.

Thanks guys! See the thing is, I do not have the inner door that is operated by the electric switch. I just have the main door that's hooked up to the carburetor. That's why I know it is not hooked up right. I wanted to know if it is possible though to get the cowl door to open and close properly without all the other components? Eventually I have to find someone who will know how to hook everything up properly.

402, If you connect the door actuator to a good manifold vacuum source it will basicly work. The flow control valve would make it a little smoother, but it will work without it. With it connected to manifold vacuum, the door will close when the engine is started. Then under hard acceleration, as manifold vacuum drops off, the door will open. Lift off the throttle, the vacuum builds and the door closes.

Just like canted says, thats how I got mine hooked up. I didnt have a factory fitting for the manifold, so all I did was get a barbed fitting at the hardware store put a little hose and a T ran one to the trans mod. and the other to the valve then to the vacuum pod to the door. works sweet! Jim

Thanks guys. I have it currently hooked up to a "weaker" vacuum source on the carb. There is a big tube (vacuum source) on the bottom of the holley carb (770 street avenger) I have my brakes and PCV valve hooked up to. I have the air control valve in, but I will switch it around to the main vacuum source and see what happens. When I start the car the door closes, but I really have to get hard on the throttle to get the door to open even a little bit. Thanks, I'll see what happens!

I have the air control valve in, but I will switch it around to the main vacuum source and see what happens. When I start the car the door closes, but I really have to get hard on the throttle to get the door to open even a little bit. Thanks, I'll see what happens!
Are you sure you don't have the one way valve backwards. If its in wrong, your door will close fast and open very slowly.

That is exactly correct! If you have the valve backward, the door won't work right (that's why it's a one way check valve).
To do a super quick, easy test, remove the valve. Suck on each end. One end will suck easy, the other end will be resistant to suck. The end that has the resistance goes TOWARD the engine.

I will test it tomorrow and let you guys know if that works or not. Thanks for all of your help! I really appreciate it. :)

Simply switching the air control valve around did not effect the cowl door at all. It still closed when engine started, but had a hard time opening. I didnt try hooking it up to the main manifold vacuum source yet though, any other ideas?