I need some help with terminology. There are 3 different pieces of metal at the rear of my '70 that I've heard called a "Rear Valance". I need to replace two of them and want to know for sure what they're called, so I'm sure I buy the right parts!!

Is it:

1) The piece of metal between the rear window and the trunk lid (on the outside painted the exterior color). The rear window trim overlaps the upper edge and on mine is pitted and probably could use replaced. or,

2) The piece of metal below the rear bumper that's attached to the bumper with the license plate holder bolts. It's on the outide and painted the exterior color. Mine needs repainted, but is in descent shape. or,

3) The vertical sheet metal piece that runs between the quarter panels, at the very back of the car. The bumper mounting bolts pass through it to attach to the bumper brackets. It's behind the rear bumper. The inside of the part faces inside the trunk and is spatter painted like the rest of the trunk. Mine is in pretty bad shape and needs replaced. It could be more than one piece of metal. It's kind of hard to tell, but the whole thing needs replaced.

I know only one of these is really the rear valance. What are the other two called? I'm especially interested in #3. If you get new trunk floor pans does this part normally come with it? Or are the floor pans made so they create the vertical surface?

Thanks in advance for your help! I really appreciate it!! :D

Andy

they are called
1. deck lid filler panel
2. rear valance
3. rear body panel or tail light panel

Thanks, Bob!

Is the rear body/tail light panel hard to come by?

Andy

Andy
try ground up restoration www.ss396.com (http://www.ss396.com)
part # RPT-702 $139.00

Thanks, Bob!!

Just a quick little correction; the part number is RTP-702 when you do the search, not RPT-702.

Does anyone have a picture of this part, though? I wouldn't mind seeing just have much coverage it has.

Crankshaft

That panel #3 is not reproduced any where. The part that is being repro is the part where the trunk seal runs on, not where the bumper bolts too. The green part that the quarter is welded too is the part that is being repro
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/vwp?.dir=/70+Chevelle+Project&.src=bc&.dnm=fitting+the+quarter.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/lst%3f% 26.dir=/70%2bChevelle%2bProject%26.src=bc%26.view=t (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/vwp?.dir=/70+Chevelle+Project&.src=bc&.dnm=fitting+the+quarter.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/lst%3f%26.dir=/70%2bChevelle%2bProject%26.src=bc%26.view=t)

this pic shows the panel that the bumper bolts too
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/vwp?.dir=/70+Chevelle+Project&.src=bc&.dnm=new+rear+mount.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/lst%3f%26.di r=/70%2bChevelle%2bProject%26.src=bc%26.view=t (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/vwp?.dir=/70+Chevelle+Project&.src=bc&.dnm=new+rear+mount.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/lst%3f%26.dir=/70%2bChevelle%2bProject%26.src=bc%26.view=t)

In this one you can see where repro trunk pans come too
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/vwp?.dir=/70+Chevelle+Project&.src=bc&.dnm=Test+fitting+new+trunk+floor+2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevel les/lst%3f%26.dir=/70%2bChevelle%2bProject%26.src=bc%26.view=t (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/vwp?.dir=/70+Chevelle+Project&.src=bc&.dnm=Test+fitting+new+trunk+floor+2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles/lst%3f%26.dir=/70%2bChevelle%2bProject%26.src=bc%26.view=t)

The pans only run up to that vertical lip.

Replacing that part is a bitch!! Everything is welded to it which in turn affects all the gaps. Before you weld that panel in MAKE sure you test fit the rear bumper several times and its a very good idea to have it rechromed first because then you know the bumper is straight, which will make all the gaps straight.

Are there any other rusted out areas? If you are replacing the quarters and wheel wells, dont remove the wheel wells the same time you have the panel #3 cut out too or the back of the car WILL drop. Replace the whell wells first and get them welded in, because they support a great deal of weight in the back.

Ive replaced this panel and its not a sweet deal, I could provide more pics and even do a walk through on how to do it...Eric

Sevt

Thanks for the info and the pics! I was afraid of that!!

Mine isn't rusted through yet, but large chunks of rusted metal periodically fall through the holes on the bottom of the panel. Not good! I'm assuming it's only a matter of time before the first holes appear - or the bumper bolts pull through the panel, etc.

Were you able to re-use yours, or did you find it at a junk yard (since it's not a repro item). How did you prepare the metal? Did you have it dipped?

What are the chances of finding this part at a swap meet - or am I pretty much stuck with junked cars as a resource?

Thanks again!

Andy

Double post

Andy that panel is a junk yard only deal I doubt you will find it at a swap meet. But becarful when selecting one to buy, the only cars i had avaible, neither had the whole panel in good condition. i had to splice or piece together parts from two cars to make one good panel. I had to piece to together the panel the bumper bolts to and the piece the trunk seal sit on. Not a good idea to piece them together, what a SOB to fit. Both pieces must fit just right or it will throw all the gaps to hell. i cant say how many times I had those two parts readjusted. The center has to be just right along with the ends which must maintain a certain angle or the gaps on the quarter-bumper, quarter to deck lid, and if the quarter hits the deck lid when closed.

So what ever you do, buy a panel that is good both top and bottom DONT piece them together.

The lower piece shown in the second pic I bought from West coast sheetmetal, have their number somewhere. Cost me around 150 bucks, but when I got it home I found the top part(trunk seal sits on) was rsuted badly so thats why I had to piece one together. The top part I got from a parts car which that part was perfect but the lower half was wasted :confused: graemlins/angry.gif

I sandblsted the metal then metal etched it with PPG dx1791. Once I got everything welded back in(several years), I blasted everything again, metal etched then expoy primer. Let me know if you need more info...Eric

Thanks for all the info and tips, Eric. I really appreciate it!!!!

I'm beginning to plan my body resto for late this year, maybe next (depending on finances). Looks like I need to focus on finding these parts now, so I'm ready when the time comes.

Thanks again for everything, guys. I've printed out this thread and am keeping it for my reference files!!

Andy

Sorry about the misinformation thanx for clearing it up Eric
i just recieved a catolog from Muscle classic catalog that listed it as coming soon so maybe within the next couple of months it will be availible there number is 1-800-722-4828
or www.oldmusclecars.com (http://www.oldmusclecars.com) they even have a part number for it 8735922 obviously double check to make sure its the correct piece