Maybe I'm not so good at using the search but I can't seem to find a good explaination on why I (and others) have hot restart problems.

First... Battery is 4yrs old 775cca @32° and 12.4v (engine off). With engine running 14.5v.
This should tell me that the alternator is charging.

Second... I just replaced the (+) cable to 2g and mounted the (-) directly to the head using a star washer. solenoid has a heat shield. Starter is a high torque standard delco.

I even tried a N/C momentary switch to turn off the power to the coil, killing the ignition. Still no difference.

What's my next step?

Maybe I'm not so good at using the search but I can't seem to find a good explaination on why I (and others) have hot restart problems.

[QUOTE=66PetRat] 12.4v (engine off). With engine running 14.5v.
This should tell me that the alternator is charging.
Correct


Second... I just replaced the (+) cable to 2g and mounted the (-) directly to the head using a star washer. solenoid has a heat shield. Starter is a high torque standard delco.

I even tried a N/C momentary switch to turn off the power to the coil, killing the ignition. Still no difference.

What's my next step? Is your problem just a click, or does it crank slowly. If is just a click, after eliminating the starter, the problem is poor voltage and current to the starter "S" terminal. Do this test, run a test wire of at least 12g from the "S" terminal to the battery with a 30 amp fuse close to the battery. the next time it doesn't crank, touch the wire to the battery + (this bypasses all safety devices, be sure trans is in park and E brake on) If it cranks normally the problem is in the wiring. To check the wiring.....

To check the entire starter circuit, electricity flows from the battery to the junction block, to the 4 way splice, to the horn relay, to the bulkhead connector, to IGN switch, to neutral safety switch if automatic or clutch switch if stick shift (depending on yr), to the starter "S" terminal. Check all connections and switches along this path. You may have a bad connection or high resistance in a switch. Also check for burnt wires near the starter.

Thanks "Undees",
This is a '66 w/4spd so this should be an easy test (no clutch safety). The solenoid clicks and the starter labors. Just won't push that piston over the top. Also has stock 10.25:1 compression.
I also have a loose insulation sleeve over the 3 wires leading down the firewall to the starter. I tried to keep them as far from the ceramic coated exhaust manifold as possible.

Has the battery been load tested with a modern tester ? Not a "toaster " type, they are missleading.

Ive had this problem on a few of the GM's Ive owned. One day finally I had enough of that BS and put in a remotely mounted Ford ( if you ll pardon the expression) type solenoid and 0 guage wire from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter. Starts every time & I love it no more crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver in the dark.

The solenoid mentioned above seems to be a standard fix. I put one of the GM mini starters on and it labored since.

Thanks everyone for your input. The verdict is in and the battery was condemed to life in the junk pile. The battery can hold good voltage but can not take a load. This is where the guy at Batteries Plus sings praise to the battery tender and sells me one (along with the new battery). I was able to take the 4yr old battery back to Fleet Farm and get almost half my money back.
Its amazing how nice the engine starts (even hot) with a big new pressure box. It even seems to run better.
I guess I feel a little ignorant for assuming the battery wasn't old enough to have this problem. It never really performed well to begin with. Maybe that is because I just fixed everything else in the system (big cable and better grounds) before replacing the real problem. Also living in Wisconsin doesn't help because of the idle battery storage issue. I am now proud to say I own a battery tender.
I don't mean to sound so "corny" but I'm really happy that my ride is dependable again.

Thanks for sharing that info with us. It's always nice when people report there fixes so we all can learn from them.

Ok, I'll bite. Whats a "battery tender". That has to be something invented since I left Minnesota for good in 1987. :)

Ok, I'll bite. Whats a "battery tender". That has to be something invented since I left Minnesota for good in 1987. :)
A battery tender is nothing more than a very low output charger. It is not designed to charge a dead or low battery, it is designed to keep a well charged battery charged over long periods of storage. Output is very low, and can be left on for indefinitely.