Hey guys I know this is non-velle, but I need help. My wife's 94 burb came from the factory with little or no paint on the very bottom of the doors. They were painted by the dealer when new, and again the bottom edge of both rear side doors were blasted, seam sealed repainted about 3 years ago. Now the rust in the pinch weld is to the point where I need to skin the bottom the the two rear side doors from the factory molding down. The problem is I can't find patch panels for this area. they are available from everyone up to the body style change in the late 80s, but I have not been able to find them for the 90 up doors for the burb or pickup. Do you guys know of a supplier, something else that will work or how would you guys go about this? I have custom paint on the truck above the belt line that could not be reproduced so changing the entire doors would be a real problem, not to mention it's age and over 100k on it. Great truck and I want to keep it.

I'm not Martin or Eric, but I do have a link that was passed along to me a while back. Sherman Auto Parts (http://store.shermanparts.com/cgi-bin/sherman/product_list.html?img_num=900) I never ended up ordering from them, so I cannot vouch for quality, or service, but hey, it's a start. You might also check with chevy for a NOS part.
Best of Luck!

EDIT: I just clicked on the link, and it looks like you have to go through the "front door," of their site in order to get prices. Sherman Parts (http://www.shermanparts.com/)

Rick, I really love those chevy trucks!! :rolleyes:
Ive yet to see one that has held longer then a few years from the factory. About a month ago I did a skin on a 03 chevy truck, guess what rust had started already

If we get into your app we pretty much skin the whole door as it really isnt cost efficient to do a patch. So I dont really know if such a panel exists.

A few vendors we buy from are Keystone, Soiux plating and Wheelers.
If anyone would have a patch for that truck wheelers would but unfornutley their products are below par in my book.

Have you looked into buying a full door skin be it GM or repro and cutting it down? My guess its the only way you will be able to get what you want done.

This just came to mind. Make your own panel! Measure the width and rough height of your panel(Id cut below the lower body line) and then add some for your flanges that fold over the frame. BUt still know what the distance is from edge to edge as that is where you will make the flanges.

Buy some 20ga metal and have the metal shop flange the bottom of the patch only. if you flange the edges you will have a hard time bending the panel to form to shape. So just do the bottom.
Oncce you have the panel, bend it to the shape of the door, use something with a soft curve like your gas tank on the MIG welder.
Hold the patch in place and Mark the top cut line. Cut out any spare metal and prepar your line for welding, be it a buttweld, lap or flanged lap.

Place the panel into place, tack weld the upper portion, clamp the sides to the frame and bend over the lower flanged part of the panel over the door frame.

You should be able to use some vise grips to bend over the sides of the panel, then finish them off with a hammer and dolly.

just an idea...Eric

I'm going through the same on my '97 ... doors are completely rotted at bottom. Here is the best prices I could find on new skins ...

www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com)
12387769
12387770
$186.59/ea

Problem I found was that mine actually rotted the door frame before it popped through the paint. Good luck, but I think most trucks do the same ... you'll want to look before ordering anything.

For mine, I'm going with salvage doors from Arizona, because it was far cheaper than the body shop re-skinning.

Thanks, Neal

thanks a million guys. I had checked with the local GMC dealer, the local auto body panel supplier, and even J.C. Whitney without any luck and you guys came up with two or three sources in a few hours. Man this membership is the best money I spend a year.

I hear you on the rust issue. my 01 Dakota is getting rust on the rad support and the seat brackets already and it only has 18k miles on it and is not used for deep water off roading! :(

I'm going to por or koreless (sp?) the crap out of these panels on the burb but rust is just a way of life in this climate.

great explanation on making your own panel, but I don't think I'm that talented. :eek:

thanks again guys.

You would think a guy from Iowa would know how to spell Sioux. Just kidding with you Eric. :D

Originally posted by LeoP:
You would think a guy from Iowa would know how to spell Sioux. Just kidding with you Eric. :D LOL, Sioux isnt the only word I cant spell right.

Professor,
This afternoon I thought about you! I happened to see a mid 80's chevy truck got an idea. Would using a patch panel from that era of truck work if you cut below the body line, only used the first 5-6in of metal?

The curves look pretty darn close, the width might be close. Might look into that, worth a shot.

Rick, if you can do a clip top you can make a patch panel cmon!!
Something else that came to mind this afternoon, if you do the patch I would glue it in place. Allow it to reach its cure time, Fusor is 8hrs, 3M is 24hrs.
Then come back and fold over the flanges. the reason I would allow the glue to reach full cure is to help hold the panel in place as you bend the flanges on the sides. Without it I think the panel would bend and twist causing damage.

For adhesives i like fusor products for several reasons.
1. Its the only product recommended by GM and I believe Chrysler as well
2. It comes in two sizes of tubes unlike 3M, so you dont have 3/4 of tube laying around going to waste
3. I like it better then 3M 8115

you would glue it instead of welding it in place? I've never used the adhesives, would I want use a bead all the way across the seam and would I lap the patch behind or on top of the existing door? do I grind the metal bare or should I prime it or paint it so that rust can't develop between the glued surfaces?

Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by LeoP:
You would think a guy from Iowa would know how to spell Sioux. Just kidding with you Eric. :D LOL, Sioux isnt the only word I cant spell right.

Professor,
This afternoon I thought about you! I happened to see a mid 80's chevy truck got an idea. Would using a patch panel from that era of truck work if you cut below the body line, only used the first 5-6in of metal?

The curves look pretty darn close, the width might be close. Might look into that, worth a shot.

Rick, if you can do a clip top you can make a patch panel cmon!!
Something else that came to mind this afternoon, if you do the patch I would glue it in place. Allow it to reach its cure time, Fusor is 8hrs, 3M is 24hrs.
Then come back and fold over the flanges. the reason I would allow the glue to reach full cure is to help hold the panel in place as you bend the flanges on the sides. Without it I think the panel would bend and twist causing damage.

For adhesives i like fusor products for several reasons.
1. Its the only product recommended by GM and I believe Chrysler as well
2. It comes in two sizes of tubes unlike 3M, so you dont have 3/4 of tube laying around going to waste
3. I like it better then 3M 8115 </font>[/QUOTE]