Welding [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Welding


Edgar S
Dec 16th, 01, 9:38 PM
Can a lincon electric WELD Pack 100
be used to do sheet metal work???
If any one is familiar with this unit
please let me know. Thank You
edgar

AlMyPal39
Dec 16th, 01, 10:35 PM
Use .023 wire and use gas with the welder.

FO_FDYFO
Dec 17th, 01, 4:14 AM
yes, just practice a bit first.

------------------
1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons haul A$$ in style! "The Chopped Suburban". to see some goto
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) FO_FDYFO = four-fifty four! TC#1460, VCEA#2

BobMcC
Dec 17th, 01, 9:00 AM
Yes, but you do have to buy the gas "kit". Also when you get the gas cylinder filled, fill it with 75% Argon 25% CO2. If you haven't purchased the unit yet, you may consider the Lincoln SP-135T, which has the "kit" built in (you still need the cylinder). Look at: http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv

------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

elkyD68
Dec 19th, 01, 9:22 PM
why the insistence that you use gas shield as opposed to core shielded? i also have the lincoln electric welder.

------------------
Derek Ohlgren

68 El Camino (http://dohlgren.virtualave.net/pictures/car/elkynew.jpg) w/ 307 and PG
It's not fast but it shoots flames out the tailpipes!

cjlandry
Dec 20th, 01, 6:56 AM
I've used both flux-core and true MIG with the small wire feed units. I found the flux-core easier to use at first, but once I got the hang of the true MIG (gas shielded) I don't think I'll ever find a reason to use flux core again.

Gas shielded is much cleaner and more consistent. Welds don't require as much cleaning before applying paint. Grinding is minimized. Less "spatter" around the welds. Just all-around nicer to work with.

------------------
My Web Page (http://www.landry-family.com) (updated 11-24-01)

"America will endure!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #04556
'68 El Camino

Troy70SS
Dec 20th, 01, 11:42 AM
Yep,

I have that welder and the gas kit. .023 wire. It works great but you will need to do some practicing on sheetmetal first.

Make sure you learn to get the weld to actually melt the sheetmetal without going through. I have seen some guys run a bead that is essentially sitting on top of the metal. It has no strength and you have to do a lot of grinding.

Play with adjusting your feed rate while leaving the heat range at an A or B and you should be able to make some really nice welds on body sheetmetal.

Also, remember you can't run a fan blowing on you to keep cool in the summer like you can with a stick welder. It blows the gas shield away and you can't weld worth a damn.

Good luck,

Troy.

JYD71_454
Dec 20th, 01, 12:04 PM
Practice, practice, practice! Cut your welds apart to see just how good they are.

I converted over to MIG some time back. The benefits of MIG are a cleaner weld and easier to see the weld puddle while welding. You can also crank up the gas pressure to compensate (up to a point) for wind.

The benefits of flux-core are that it requires less surface prep (MIG needs a very clean surface whereas flux core can more easily penetrate surface rust/residue from manufacturing process) and will weld slightly thicker material for the same power level.

Randy Mosier
Dec 20th, 01, 12:56 PM
And remember, when welding sheetmeal, you can't weld one continuous bead like you do with heavier guage metals. You have to stitch weld, that is, give the trigger short bursts so that you only create a small spot weld, and tie them all together to form a solid bead. And don't weld in any one area for over a few minutes at a time. I usually weld a small bead in one and then move to another part of the panel. This minimalizes warping. The goal is to eventually tie all your welds together.

[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 12-20-2001).]