I am going to replace the 11" booster and M/C on my car with a new 9" booster and Master cylinder. Was just curious if it is as straigt forward as it seems? I.E. Unhook brake linakge, Undo the lines and drain the M/C, unbolt it from booster and then ubolt the booster from the fire wall? Reverse to put it on? I also had one question. Are the studs that hold the booster on attached to the firewall, or do I have to hold the one side that's in the car as I unbolt it in the engine compartment?

Any other tips would be great.

Thanks,

Chris

Bolts are attached, and be sure to blench bleed the MC.

If the brackets are the same, this is a 20 minute job. :D

Bench bleed the new MC. The directions are in the box. Be very careful when you disconnect the lines from the old MC. If you do it with no spills, have a buddy hold the brake pedal to the floor when you connect the lines to the new MC. DO NOT release the brake until the new lines are tight. This almost (90% of the time) prevents the need to gravity bleed the brake lines. When I do it this way I very seldom get any air in the line. If the brake pedal feels firm, it's your choice if you want to bleed the lines.

This is a little secret the mechanics know to speed up production time. Believe me, they don't always bleed the lines with a MC swap, the reciept might say it, but did you see them do it? Shhhh

Thanks guys. Some pretty good tip Jimmy. I was planning on doing the brakes at the same time, but I will have to remember that in the future.

Thanks again,

Chris