View Full Version : Broke control arm


jfkheat
Apr 13th, 06, 7:15 PM
I was backing my 68 Beaumont out of a parking space today and all of a sudden the front drivers side tire lays over. The lower control arm broke. Luckly I wasn't driving down the road when it happened. I have never done any front suspension work on any car. What all is involved in replacing the control arm? Any special tools needed? What else should be replaced while this is being done? I plan to replace both sides since I don't know what condition the passenger side arm is in. What years and makes of cars used these same control arms? Should I find original parts or go with aftermarket parts?
Thanks, James

BillsCamino
Apr 13th, 06, 7:50 PM
Where was the break?
Ball joint socket? Or did the control arm bracket seperate from the frame? :eek:
Better look more carefully...if it's a total break, there isn't much holding the spring in place!!!

jfkheat
Apr 13th, 06, 7:58 PM
It broke at the socket. Is there anything I need to do now or can it wait until I have time to get it fixed. I'm going out of town for work Sunday and probably won't be back for a month or so. Guess I won't be at the Peach State Chevelle show.
James

BillsCamino
Apr 13th, 06, 8:09 PM
Sorry to hear this, James! :sad:
Just be aware that there is no longer anything holding the coil spring in place except the weight of your car and a shock thru it's center.
Jacking up the car may allow that spring to come flying out if you're not very cautious.

JWagner
Apr 13th, 06, 8:33 PM
Sounds exactly like my problem of a couple months back. I recommend that you get a spring compressor to make the job easier; it can be done without, I suppose, but it looks a bit mor dangerous to me. As always, use the same caution that would be used when working on a live electric circuit. That spring contains a LOT of energy. Put a jack under the control arm to compress the spring , remove the shock absorber, and install a compressor and tighten the compressor a bit. Then lower the arm and pull out the spring. (The shop manual shows a tool for dropping the inboard end of the control arm, but that is probably not practical for most of us. ) Pull out the arm and install the new one with all new parts. Take a good look at the hydraulic hose for your brake as it may be trashed now. I got some good used lower arms from one of the members here and added a small amount of reinforcement around the ends. So far as I know, no one here has commented on the quality or fit of the aftermarket repro arms, but they are out there ( see eBay) for about $120 each.

SS70ElCaminoOwner
Apr 14th, 06, 11:34 PM
I do not know if you are intersted but take a look at this link http://www.leverfamilysite.com/GM_A_body.htm

jfkheat
Apr 15th, 06, 6:44 AM
Thanks for the responses. Glenn, thanks for the link to your site. There is some good info on there. I still would like to know about the quality of aftermarket parts. Has anyone here used anything other than GM parts?
Thanks, James

ChaosEnvy
Apr 15th, 06, 10:03 AM
I think a better question would be.. is there anyone in here that has used GM parts...

Mark SC&C
Apr 15th, 06, 1:08 PM
Now you know why racing organizations that allow use of press in ball jounts almost always require them to be welded in. Then the BJ holds the arms together and can`t come out. It`s not a bad idea to weld some reinforcement into the end of the arms and at least tack the LBJ in.

Changing the arm isn`t all that hard. As they said above,get a spring compressor. I`ll add another safety tip to that. Before you take the spring out loop a piece of chain through the spring and the LCA,bolt it together with plenty of slack (so you can still remove the spring). That little piece of chain has saved my bacon more than once! While you`re at it you might as well drop the arm on the other side,inspect it for cracks and install new bushings. Mark SC&C