Hello all, i need some info on no spark.Heres the deal,new points,rotor,cap,wires,plugs,and coil.It cranks but no start.The coil get very hot when the key is on which i think is normal. I get 12 volts on the positive side of the coil from the ignition switch.
(any takers on this one)
p.s. I got it to start up this afternoon for a few minutes,shut it off then tried to start again with no luck.
points are somewhat gapped(could this be causing it?) it seemed to run good when it was running.

The coil should not get very hot. ( the points may not be opening) The points gap needs to be set with the arm on the high point of the cam, this is to just get it running. The final adjustments should be made with a dwell meter.

The points are opening but were closed as i had the key on.When i turn over the motor i can see the points opening and closing.I know they are not gapped correctly but it did run as is for a few minutes the other day then it lost spark again,this car sat for 15 years in a garage then when the garage was dismantled it sat in the weather outside with leaking windows for 6 months.Not much works inside the car except the heater motor and cig lighter.(gauge lights,headlights,blinkers etc.) are dead or rusted. i have most things working electrically and wonder what else can cause my problem?I saw a post regarding the horn relay may be an issue but???I have a fast solid crank,12 volts to the coil while cranking etc. There is a box mounted to the firewall(factory)with a resistor on it,not sure what that is but everything else is new for the ignition.AGHHHHHHHHH

Not sure on the Olds but that resistor is probably a ballast resistor. Used to cut voltage to the coil after the car has started. If it's bad and you have 12v to coil while cranking the car should start, it will die after releasing key from start to run but it should fire. What is the voltage on the other side of the coil with key on and points open, should be 12v also. Close points and should drop to 0.

I am getting 12 volts on the positive side of the coil during crank.11 volts off the coil spark plug wire,that goes into the distributor, after that i am getting no spark out of the plug wires(did i mention i have a resiter at the positive term of the coil also?)I also tried the old pregapped points again with no luck.I remember as a kid watching my dad pull a motor out of a car and testing it on the ground....this shouldn't be this hard.

Closing point does not drop to zero.

Thanks all!!!!!
I checked the points with a meter and found they were not closing. I readjusted them and she fired right up!! After 15 years of sitting and know how from you guys she made it around the block on her own power.
Best to all.

that's cool. that first little trip is special huh? one time this friend and i bought a '68 cutlass convert w/ 350 olds motor. it had been literally sitting in a pasture for several years. we splashed in some gas, put on some tires, and after fixing a gas leak, drove her home about 10 miles. didn't really burn oil or anything.
might want to grab you an HEI out of a scrap yard. that's what i did with my olds. they are everywhere for about $25 and you'll get better performance and no maintenance required.

yes it was a great feeling,amazingly she doesn't smoke tic or knock.She has a tranny line leak at the radiator and the brakes are way to touchy but in time she is going to be a neat driver.