: Radiator overflow resevoir tank for 68 chevelle
68Beau Apr 8th, 06, 4:36 PM I would like to install one on my fender wall of my engine compartment, right now whenever I go for a cruise on a hot day I lose coolant(hose runs down to the ground) I'm looking for one of those white plastic ones, does anyone know which one would fit(make, model etc.)
Thanks, Rob
CANTED Apr 8th, 06, 7:41 PM Rob, I had the same question, ended up mounting a universal type tank in front of the battery. Type coolant recovery tank in the search and look for the thread I started. Several members helped out with some great pictures.
68Beau Apr 8th, 06, 8:23 PM Rob, I had the same question, ended up mounting a universal type tank in front of the battery. Type coolant recovery tank in the search and look for the thread I started. Several members helped out with some great pictures.
I have a windsheild washer resevoir mounted on the opposite side(drivers) I guess i could get another one of those and bolt it right in front of the battery...wonder if it would be big enough....have to look into that.
Thanks, Rob
72chevy Apr 8th, 06, 9:58 PM I just changed mine to a closed system. I followed this link, used same parts, and ordered from same place. Their prices were 1/2 of what the local dealerships was quoting. Installed just like the pics. Works great! :thumbsup:
http://www.454malibu.com/overflow_tank.htm
Part numbers at bottom of page link.
69SSRat Apr 9th, 06, 1:44 PM http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65327&highlight=overflow+tank
Here are the p/n's make a nice looking install
68Beau Apr 9th, 06, 3:31 PM Thanks alot guys...looks like i'll be ordering some parts from my local gm dealer.
SWHEATON Apr 9th, 06, 3:49 PM BEFORE BOTHERING TO INSTALL AN OVERFLOW TANK MAKE SURE YOUR NOT OVERFILLING THE RADIATOR AND THAT YOU HAVE A NEW RAD CAP RATED AT 15-16 LBS.
ooppss,sorry about caps.
Coolent expands when heated so make sure the coolent evel is approx 2.5- inches below the filler neck. If it's too full it will expand when hot and will always spit up when you shut it down. Tihs is because the expanded coolent has nowhere to go but up & out,esp on a hot day on top of heat soak when you 1st shut it down and the temp spikes up another 20-30 deg F for a few mins before it starts to cool back down.
Also,your rad cap can look ok but if the spring is weak it will also allow the coolent to boil at a lower temp. This is becasue it wont hold the proper 15-16lbs pressure with a weak spring and the lower the pressure the lower the boilng point. This is even worse if the rubber seal/gasket on the rad cap is worn/ripped/dried out too.
If the coolent level is correct and you have a good 15lb cap and it still spits up you must be running too hot. If your cooling system is working properly this should not be happening unless your running a wild blower,tunnel ram,or real hot setup on the street with a fair amount of gear like 373,390,410. But if your running a basically stock setup or mild to fairly stout 350-450 hp motor a good cond properly installed stock type cooling system should be able to handle most condition unless extreeme. At the most you may need to change from a stock type useless 4 blade fan to a 7 blade clutch fan ,maybe a new 3-4 core radiator or a new high quality Alumitech stock looking/sized custom aluminum direct replacement radiator,a high flow w/pump,180 deg high flow stat, along with a fan shroud if you dont already have one.
I see your running an auto trans,a fairly hot BBC,and 355 gear all pushing a stock cooling system to its limits but if it's working properly @ 95-100% of it's coooling capacity it should be ok. Are you running the trans cooler lines through the radiator ? If yes i would opt for an external trany cooler thats more efficient for cooling the trany therefore extending it's life. An external trany cooler will also take some of the cooling load off the radiator/cooling system which may free up just enough extra cooling capacity to stop the shut down spitups on hot days.
But i guess if you motor is not running hot enough thats its a problem and and all else is working correctly (rad cap,coolent lvl correct,etc) then a coolent reecovery tank would be a cheap/quick/easy way to eliminate the messy overflow spit up every time you shut down the beast. But if you show the car i would see if you could remidy it so you dont have see the unsightly overflow tank that was not there when the car was built if you care about that kind of thing which i do as can tell from my rambling on here.
Good luck and let us know which way you decide to go after the problem.
Scott
68Beau Apr 9th, 06, 5:44 PM Thanks, Sweaton
BTW, nice to hear from you again its been a while...about a year since I was last on this forum.(well, except for yesterday)
I just have a problem with overflow when hot when I fill the radiator within an 1" from the top, (and really run her through the gears)I figured if I can keep as much coolant in there as possible at all times it would be better. When I leave the level within 2-3" from the top no problem.
This forum has changed, how can I add icons to my messages...like the old thumbs up!
Thanks Again, Rob
SWHEATON Apr 9th, 06, 6:14 PM Hi Rob,it's to chat with yo u again too. When i go to post a reply the icons are at the bottom of the screen where i type in the post. If you open up a new post or ans a post and the icons like thumbs up are not there i think all you need to do is go into your profile setup to enable/turn on the option for the icons & then save you new profile before leaving that opt.
Scott
68Beau Apr 9th, 06, 6:45 PM Thanks Scott,
How's the chevelle running, still using oil or has it faded away, mine still does but I've learned to live with it...seems to use less every year. I probably only put about 3000 miles since rebuild anyway...still not broken in yet hehe!
Rob
SWHEATON Apr 9th, 06, 11:09 PM Rob,i have approx 3k miles on the motor and it stopped smoking and the oil consumption has gone down a lot too. But it will still use some oil over time but the motor runs great with no problem as of yet. I still think i am sucking oil up from the underside of the imtake becasue my block an heads were decked just enough to maybe be causing some sealing issues between the heads & intake.(It never ends)
This summer i plane to better dial in my combo since my new garage in finally finished and i have somewhere to store & work on the car.
I have to tweak the q-jet to to better match & feed my motor by installing a larger high flow needle & seat,1or 2 sizes larger main jets,and richer seconday rods. I also have to recurve my dist because when NY state forced sunoco to drop the ultra 94 to 93 octain along with blending alcohol for better emmissions this was enough to make my car start to detonate/ping bad when i would get into it which is not good. So i am having the mechanical advance reduced and limited for a total or 36 deg btdc total timing (intial + mechanical not inc vacuum adv.). Currently my total timing is running 44 deg btdc not inc vac adv so reducing the mech adv willl likely stop the ping but reducing the ntiming total timing by approx 8 deg will also loose power and make the motor feel a little sluggesh too.(Sucks) The only way to avoid this is to either run exspensive octain booster along with the now $3.00 + a gal fuel ,change to a cam with a lot more duration to bleed off more cylender pressure,or pull motor out and replae the pistions ,try thcker head gaskets to lower comp,or change to heads with larger comb chambers all of which i dont have time or money to do right now.
I also finally replaced the opt 307 gear in my 12 bolt to 331's last yr and it really woke the car up even though it was not a huge change in gear. But unfortunately for me the shop that changed the gear for me has replaced 2 pinion seals and it leaks real bad now. I guess if you want something done right you have to do it yourself so i am going to replace the seal this time and make sure to inspect the yoke seal surface to make sure it's ok and replae it if needed and iwill also make sure to use silicone sealer on the pinion gear shaft splines the yoke slides over and also on the outter portion of the pinion seal where it seats into the rear end housing to keep oil from leaking from thoses areas.
How is your car running?
Scott
68Beau Apr 10th, 06, 8:07 AM Mines running great, (other than consuming a bit of oil) I swapped out my 10 bolt 3.08 for a 12 bolt 3.55 last year and really woke the car up. This year I hope to install power disc brakes on the front...really hard to slow this car down with 4 wheel manual drums... like you said it never ends.
Rob
BigJim79 Apr 10th, 06, 4:15 PM Advance Auto has overflow plastic bottle around $20.00 I put one in my 70 Chevelle behind the battery and it works great.
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